JDMC5

iTrader: (3)

It's a 5 bolt style so I think it's a 97-99. It came with the slip yoke too. It has a module box next to the shift lever, I don't remember my 4l60 having one, is this gonna be a problem? Should I expect to have to bash in my tunnel at all? I know I have to fab up some fittings for the lines, it came with the fittings and a few inches of pipe, should I try to utilize them or start from scratch? I've read at least one write up on the subject but I'm just looking for some advice. Also, I plan on running a transgo hd2 kit and a cooler.

JDMC5

iTrader: (3)

I'm also wondering what brand crossmember I should go with.

NorthTexasConverter

You will need to hammer the tunnel a bit where the internal harness connector protrudes from the case near the back of the trans on the driver's side.

Fittings is your call.

BMR crossmember would probably be your best bet.

Cole Train

iTrader: (30)

BMR cross member here and i love it. Top notch build quality and very heavy duty. Got the one with the torque arm mount as well i had to cut my tunnel where the brace goes but it wasn't a big deal. I tried to hammer mine but it was a tight fit. My trans sits around +2.5* which seems like everyone says is abnormal and that it should sit around 0* or down a little but mine doesn't

JDMC5

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the replies guys. I can see where I'm gonna have to mod for the connector. I've read that you might have to hammer a little around the bellhousing area. Was this a problem or should I be good?

I see there are two types of crossmembers, one has the torque arm mount and sells for ~$260. I'm assuming that's the one I need. I thought -1* is optimum for torque arm angle.

Also, any idea on the module box by the shift linkage? Probably normal right?

Cole Train

iTrader: (30)

Shift linkage module should come off, its not used, you will need a cross member for the torque arm and I had more than enough room by the bellhousing

JDMC5

iTrader: (3)

That's good news. Does the spear tech harness come with everything I need? I'm assuming I just need the main connector and vss if I remember correctly.

Any dipstick work better than others?

JDMC5

iTrader: (3)

I just got off the phone with my trans guy and he said since I have the shift module I have to get a shorter shifter lever

Cole Train

iTrader: (30)

just the rod that goes into the trans. The shifter arm/ball should be one from the 4L60 since it has the correct ball size(10mm) the VSS plug is the same as the one already in the car. You just reuse the stock one. I used the PCMforLess harness so not familiar with the speartech. The VSS plug goes in the rear most sensor. There are 2 on the 4L80 and you only utilize the one

got-a-ls1

iTrader: (12)

4l80s fit in these cars like they should have just come with them. and they should have lol. gm shoulda just put a 4l80e in everything.

got-a-ls1

iTrader: (12)

oh and if you want to save 100 bucks you can bend the dip stick tube to fit. both me and my buddy have stock ones bent to fit. can buy something a lot better for 100 bucks lol

Cole Train

iTrader: (30)

I agree, they should have put the 80 in these in the first place. The main thing they did the 60e for i think is weight and also the 60 could handle the LS1 for long enough to make GM happy. They couldn't, however, handle more than stock power

handyandy496

iTrader: (9)

Whats the best(stronges) year 80 That fit(wire up) f-bodies?

Cole Train

iTrader: (30)

None of them just "wire up". Some of the guys say the earlier ones(pre '97) are stronger and others say the newer ones are better. The thing i like with the newer ones is the pan has a drain plug, the older ones dont unless one is added which isn't difficult

got-a-ls1

iTrader: (12)

actually they basically do wire up sans the front speed sensor. only need to change a couple pins either in the trans connector or pcm side. the connector is the same as is nearly every pin. need to omit the 3-2 solenoid wire and which i believe the tcc lock up wire goes in that spot. dont quote me on that though cause its been a long time since ive researched the connectors. if you use a relay to swap the solenoid signal you dont need the front speed sensor and can use the 4l60e segment but i recommend the 4l80e segment and the front speed sensor.

i found this out after i paid 180 bucks for a speartech adapter i didnt need. but whatever lol

Troy5061

iTrader: (19)

Yea im a fan of the 80, 80 all the things. Like said above don't waste money on a harness or dipstick. You can bend the stock dipstick and the harness connectors are for sale on ebay so you can make your own harness.

JDMC5

iTrader: (3)

I bought a dipstick from Jake's Performance. I was 65 shipped.

Also, I bought the harness from speartech.

I've been reading up on the proper U-joint needed and from what I've gathered I need a 1350 to 3R conversion. I've also read that only moog and Inland Empire sell them but I found this.

http://www.ringpinion.com/b2c/PartsL...ID=5&CatID=113

cacmanjr

iTrader: (14)

Google neapco. They sell all kinds of conversion joints in both solid and grease-able.

JDMC5

iTrader: (3)

Does anyone know what the strongest one made is?

Also, my trans guy is telling me the conversion u-joints are junk, even the spicer ones....should I just have a new yoke welded on the front of my driveshaft to run the 1350?

Cam72aro

iTrader: (28)

Do a 1350 joint and be done. I would just get a new driveshaft built with 1350's from and rear and not look back.