RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

This is a TR6, turbo on E85.
11 psi, 14 deg timing, 10.8:1 AFR

I want to turn the car up a few psi. But maybe need a different plug?
I know, BR7EF

I kind of like projected tip plugs though. Was thinking maybe Autolite AR103, or AC R42XLS. Both should be colder, but the cross references are fuzzy at best!

jaybuller

you need to cut it so we can see the fuel ring area... also just from the fuzzy picture i see what looks like possibly detonation specks on the strap. but could just be the picture. did you do this run at wot then cut the car off and drift over and immediatly pull the plug? or has this been run normal driving after the hard run?

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

After a 1/4 mile run at the track. And driving it home.

Car has a TH400 trans, it's not advisable to shift to neutral from high speed. Also don't think the turbo would like no oil pressure right after full boost.

I understand a clean cut is best, just not going to happen.

Knock sensors are working, it shows no detonation.

I was mostly interested in the position of the heat line on the gnd strap.

My reading says it indicates too much timing. At only 14 degrees, I don't think so.

Plugs are virtually new.
Ron

Blown06

iTrader: (32)

Well if you have drive time on it, it's near impossible to get a read.

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

Caught ya over on YB. Agree, I didn't look at them till after some drag runs.

john.boy1985

iTrader: (3)

This!!

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Too hot of a plug combined with too much timing for that plug maybe? E85 doesn't' foul plugs. Aside from plug fouling, what is the advantage of a hotter plug? Everything I've ever read also indicated extended tip plugs are a "no-no" with boost as well. Why would you want ground strap any farther into the CC than it had to be?

My LS 5.3 setups didn't like a non-resistor plug (AEM Ecu) so I'm pretty much stuck with a BR7EF.

My 4cyl runs 34psi on E85 and I run an NGK 9 heat range plug with no fouling. I ran a 10 heat range in my buick 3.8 at 28psi on E85.

Personally this is what I like to see for a heat line on a turbo plug running 20+lbs.



This is more how the BR7EF looks on my LS at 20lbs.



Then you can go the extra mile and cut the ground strap down so it's even less prone to detonation like the pic below.

LS1 240sx

iTrader: (1)

Would you have spark blowout issues if you cut the ground strap down like that?

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

No, the gap would remain the same. It’s called “side gaping” Bunch of info on it if you do a search. Lots of race plugs come with the strap pre-cut like that.

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

I responded and it didn't come through.

I ordered the BR7's

Ron

bh353

You need to look way down inside the plug..there should be a 1 to 1 1/2mm carbon ring at the bottom of the electrode base..

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

With a microscope, I see some black specs on these.
I'll be sure and keep tabs on the new ones.

Forcefed86

iTrader: (4)

Not a very defined fuel ring with e85 usually. All information is good information, but that pretty old school tuning IMO. You could find your leanest cylinder this way, but I can usually tell that by the base color on the plug face without cutting the threads off. You have your WB02 to tune the fuel with mainly. I pay the most attention to the strap. It gives you your heat/timing info and is the main concern.

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

Got the BR7's today. I'll put them and see how they run.
I sure hope they don't mess up the idle/low speed operation with the gap hiding way up in the chamber. But you all say they work.

I noted the side gap on the race plugs my builder showed me that they run in their circle track car. NGK, extended tip 9 heat range. Non resistor.

Ron

NorthTexasConverter

I know some local cars that drive around on -8s or colder, with no issues.