Toonz

iTrader: (6)

Can anyone offer some advice?

My formula is getting a new cam, heads, springs so I thought now would be a good time to change the rod bolts too.

I am doing all the work myself as far as installation, removal, etc. How hard is this? I have access to a lift, or a cherry picker if the engine needs to come out. Right now the intake, vavle gaskets, heads, and headers are off the car. I still need to pull my cam as well. Will I be better off pulling the engine out to do the cam and rod bolts, or just leave it in and work around everything?

Anyone have a write up on how to change them? TIA!

Rob

foff667

iTrader: (2)

im not sure if theres any way to do it without pulling the motor.

critter

iTrader: (9)

I've been there. The pan will not come off with the stock K-member in the car. You can't lift the engine high enough before the bellhousing/tranny hit the body. I simply hung the engine from the STB and dropped the K-member since I was changing to a BMR anyway. You can get the pan off and on with the BMR by lifting the engine off the mounts. Otherwise pull the engine.

Toonz

iTrader: (6)

That's what I was needing to know... I guess it's coming out tomorrow or thursday. Thanks guys.

glen

iTrader: (1)

Changing rod bolts in an engine isn't the way to go nor have I heard anyone doing it that way. Generally, when changing rod bolts you resize the big end because the bolt doesn't just slide out, you have to knock it out.

Racehead

You're confused just as I was before someone straightened me out. An LS1 rod bolt simply slides thru the cap and threads into the rod, thus changing them out for better quality bolts is very easy and quick

66ImpalaLT1

Ever seen an ls1 rod bolt?

slyws6

I have a couple you can take a look at, gotta wait till this weekend until I pull the pieces of them out of the bottom of the oil pan

-Sly

felton316

This is not grandpa's 350.... The LS1's use regular style bolts that thread in, not the old school rod bolts that have been used for the past 50 years.


As to changing them, just remove one at a time. The ARP's will require you to retorque them 3 times to get proper bolt strech. If you do it with the engine in the car, wear saftey glasses. I learned the hard way that oil is not meant to go into your eye. One small drop burns like a bitch!!

Toonz

iTrader: (6)

According to the 1998 Service Manual (Volume 3, p. 6-297) you can remove the oil pan (with a stock k member) without taking the engine out. Does anyone have any experience doing this?