Is it possible to change front seal with car on jack stands?
06-02-2014, 03:43 PM
#1
Is it possible to change front seal with car on jack stands? Its probably a stupid question but I was wondering if it would be possible to replace the front real without hoisting neither the car nor engine. Using just jacks and jack stands
06-03-2014, 12:07 AM
#5
Awesome. I'm glad to hear that. This will be saving me a lot of $$.
I am talking about the transmission front seal. Could someone please elaborate on how its done without pulling the motor?
I am talking about the transmission front seal. Could someone please elaborate on how its done without pulling the motor?
06-03-2014, 01:25 PM
#7
Moderator
Getting enough clearance to completely pull the trans will require very high jack stands. (I use 6 ton jack stands on 12" cinder blocks.) Therefore, some people keep the trans under the car and just lower it enough to work on. A trans jack on wheels sure helps.
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06-04-2014, 10:38 PM
#8
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Yep, trans can stay in the tunnel, just move it back away from the engine. Don't put weight on cinder blocks for any reason. Your life isn't worth it.
06-04-2014, 10:43 PM
#10
Moderator
Hmmm, didn't know cinder blocks wouldn't hold weight. Since then I welded up my own 32" jack stands for my next trans swap project.
06-06-2014, 01:43 PM
#12
Moderator
There are some detailed threads on removing the trans, but I don't knows the specific links. Please try searching. Unless someone wants to list all the steps. In the mean time, here are a few related threads dealing with specific problems the OPs encountered.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...ing-4l60e.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...-them-car.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...ck-engine.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...ing-4l60e.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...-them-car.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...ck-engine.html
06-06-2014, 06:15 PM
#13
There are some detailed threads on removing the trans, but I don't knows the specific links. Please try searching. Unless someone wants to list all the steps. In the mean time, here are a few related threads dealing with specific problems the OPs encountered.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...ing-4l60e.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...-them-car.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...ck-engine.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...ing-4l60e.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...-them-car.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...ck-engine.html
Thanks for the links Mrvedit! I'm just looking for instructions on of to get to the front trans seal with engine still in car and car on jack stands. Ok well maybe I should take the "just" off that sentence.
The links you posted talk about getting the coverter and trans out. That is not a problem, I'm sure they have been talked about plenty here . I can figure it out.
What I would like instructions on is only up to the point before getting the torque converter out.
I don't want to get there half way and then find out, for example, that there is this one bolt that impedes the entire work and you will have to lift the motor to get it out. That would just suck big time.
So I am here to learn from, hopefully, those who have been there before me.
It shouldn't be that much instruction. I know how to jack up the car. I just need instruction from after jacking up the car to before removing the torque coverter.
06-06-2014, 08:06 PM
#14
Moderator
I don't have a Gen 4 and therefore don't know about torque arm, exhaust, cats, etc.
I'm still confused exactly what directions you are asking for.
On my '81 (from memory):
1. Disconnect battery
2. Before jacking the car, I remove the 12 O'Clock and 10:30 O'Clock bellhousing to engine bolts because I can reach them from inside the engine compartment in my car. In a Gen-4 you cannot!
3. Remove passenger side spark plugs.
4. Jack up front and back of car.
5. Unplug passenger side O2 sensor.
6. Remove passenger side header.
7. Remove starter.
8. Remove 3 torque converter bolts.
9. Remove driveshaft.
10. Loosed trans to crossmember bolt
11. Remove bolts holding crossmember
12. Slide trans jack under trans and support it
13. Remove crossmember
14. Lower trans/engine a bit for better access to bolts.
15. Disconnect trans connector and VSS connector, and trans cooling lines
16. Remove remaining bellhousing to engine bolts. (Total of 8).
In a Gen 4 you need 3x 1-foot long extensions to reach that 12 O'Clock bolt. A swivel socket (15mm) works best.
17. Slide trans back until it disengages.
18. Pull off torque converter; its heavy don't drop it.
All that takes me about 2 hours, but I have done it a bunch of times while experimenting with different trans builds/parts.
To replace the front seal on the trans:
1. Remove the metal spring clip.
2. Use a seal puller to remove the old seal.
3. Install the new seal.
4. Replace the spring clip.
Note that the front pump bushing cannot be replaced without removing the pump and disassembling it.
I hope that is the info you are looking for.
When reassembling, be sure you know how to install the converter and measure that it is right!
I'm still confused exactly what directions you are asking for.
On my '81 (from memory):
1. Disconnect battery
2. Before jacking the car, I remove the 12 O'Clock and 10:30 O'Clock bellhousing to engine bolts because I can reach them from inside the engine compartment in my car. In a Gen-4 you cannot!
3. Remove passenger side spark plugs.
4. Jack up front and back of car.
5. Unplug passenger side O2 sensor.
6. Remove passenger side header.
7. Remove starter.
8. Remove 3 torque converter bolts.
9. Remove driveshaft.
10. Loosed trans to crossmember bolt
11. Remove bolts holding crossmember
12. Slide trans jack under trans and support it
13. Remove crossmember
14. Lower trans/engine a bit for better access to bolts.
15. Disconnect trans connector and VSS connector, and trans cooling lines
16. Remove remaining bellhousing to engine bolts. (Total of 8).
In a Gen 4 you need 3x 1-foot long extensions to reach that 12 O'Clock bolt. A swivel socket (15mm) works best.
17. Slide trans back until it disengages.
18. Pull off torque converter; its heavy don't drop it.
All that takes me about 2 hours, but I have done it a bunch of times while experimenting with different trans builds/parts.
To replace the front seal on the trans:
1. Remove the metal spring clip.
2. Use a seal puller to remove the old seal.
3. Install the new seal.
4. Replace the spring clip.
Note that the front pump bushing cannot be replaced without removing the pump and disassembling it.
I hope that is the info you are looking for.
When reassembling, be sure you know how to install the converter and measure that it is right!
Last edited by mrvedit; 06-08-2014 at 07:02 PM. Reason: Forgot one step
06-07-2014, 06:51 PM
#15
I don't have a Gen 4 and therefore don't know about torque arm, exhaust, cats, etc.
I'm still confused exactly what directions you are asking for.
On my '81 (from memory):
1. Disconnect battery
2. Before jacking the car, I remove the 12 O'Clock and 10:30 O'Clock bellhousing to engine bolts because I can reach them from inside the engine compartment in my car. In a Gen-4 you cannot!
3. Remove passenger side spark plugs.
4. Jack up front and back of car.
5. Unplug passenger side O2 sensor.
6. Remove passenger side header.
7. Remove starter.
8. Remove 3 torque converter bolts.
9. Remove driveshaft.
10. Loosed trans to crossmember bolt
11. Remove bolts holding crossmember
12. Slide trans jack under trans and support it
13. Remove crossmember
14. Lower trans/engine a bit for better access to bolts.
15. Disconnect trans connector and VSS connector
16. Remove remaining bellhousing to engine bolts. (Total of 8).
In a Gen 4 you need 3x 1-foot long extensions to reach that 12 O'Clock bolt. A swivel socket (15mm) works best.
17. Slide trans back until it disengages.
18. Pull off torque converter; its heavy don't drop it.
All that takes me about 2 hours, but I have done it a bunch of times while experimenting with different trans builds/parts.
To replace the front seal on the trans:
1. Remove the metal spring clip.
2. Use a seal puller to remove the old seal.
3. Install the new seal.
4. Replace the spring clip.
Note that the front pump bushing cannot be replaced without removing the pump and disassembling it.
I hope that is the info you are looking for.
When reassembling, be sure you know how to install the converter and measure that it is right!
I'm still confused exactly what directions you are asking for.
On my '81 (from memory):
1. Disconnect battery
2. Before jacking the car, I remove the 12 O'Clock and 10:30 O'Clock bellhousing to engine bolts because I can reach them from inside the engine compartment in my car. In a Gen-4 you cannot!
3. Remove passenger side spark plugs.
4. Jack up front and back of car.
5. Unplug passenger side O2 sensor.
6. Remove passenger side header.
7. Remove starter.
8. Remove 3 torque converter bolts.
9. Remove driveshaft.
10. Loosed trans to crossmember bolt
11. Remove bolts holding crossmember
12. Slide trans jack under trans and support it
13. Remove crossmember
14. Lower trans/engine a bit for better access to bolts.
15. Disconnect trans connector and VSS connector
16. Remove remaining bellhousing to engine bolts. (Total of 8).
In a Gen 4 you need 3x 1-foot long extensions to reach that 12 O'Clock bolt. A swivel socket (15mm) works best.
17. Slide trans back until it disengages.
18. Pull off torque converter; its heavy don't drop it.
All that takes me about 2 hours, but I have done it a bunch of times while experimenting with different trans builds/parts.
To replace the front seal on the trans:
1. Remove the metal spring clip.
2. Use a seal puller to remove the old seal.
3. Install the new seal.
4. Replace the spring clip.
Note that the front pump bushing cannot be replaced without removing the pump and disassembling it.
I hope that is the info you are looking for.
When reassembling, be sure you know how to install the converter and measure that it is right!
Thanks for the info buddy! How much clearance do you think I need to do this without problems? How high does the car have to be jacked up?
06-07-2014, 10:14 PM
#16
Moderator
Yes, just two hours and 3/4H is spent jacking the car high enough. Sometimes I have a helper.
I have to get it very high as I completely remove the trans and it is sitting on a trans jack which only lowers to 8". I need the frame rails 23" above the ground. It looks like this:
Those are 9" tall cinder blocks (not 12"); I still think they are plenty strong. In the picture my floor jack (also on blocks) is under the engine oil pan. Obviously I don't lift my car that way, but this helps me set the desired angle of the engine so that the trans (on the trans jack) and engine are completely aligned for height and angle.
Here my daughter is removing the loosened bolts:
And ready to remove:
My daughter occasionally gets to drive it:
I have to get it very high as I completely remove the trans and it is sitting on a trans jack which only lowers to 8". I need the frame rails 23" above the ground. It looks like this:
Those are 9" tall cinder blocks (not 12"); I still think they are plenty strong. In the picture my floor jack (also on blocks) is under the engine oil pan. Obviously I don't lift my car that way, but this helps me set the desired angle of the engine so that the trans (on the trans jack) and engine are completely aligned for height and angle.
Here my daughter is removing the loosened bolts:
And ready to remove:
My daughter occasionally gets to drive it:
06-07-2014, 10:35 PM
#18
Moderator
I started with a brand new 2010 4L70E. It is now retrofitted with a '06 Valve body so that it works with my 2002 PCM and all the Sonnax and billet parts and other mods that I have documented in my many posts. It has been pulled and rebuilt a bunch of times.
That is one reason I can pull the trans in 2 hours. Everything is basically brand new; no rusty bolts and I can reach the troublesome 12 O'Clock bolt without much trouble. I know just that one bolt can take hours on a Gen-4.
That is one reason I can pull the trans in 2 hours. Everything is basically brand new; no rusty bolts and I can reach the troublesome 12 O'Clock bolt without much trouble. I know just that one bolt can take hours on a Gen-4.
