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So after blowing my coupler off 5 times at last nights Test and tune I figured I had to do something about it.
Started by roughing up the entire contact patch of the coupler. Then used a small file right under the tiny excuse for a bead that comes on the LS1 TB. Ended up with a more pronounced bead for sure just doing this. Then filed down the supports to allow a larger T-bolt clamp to be installed and remain behind the bead.
Cleaned it really well with lacquer thinner and taped off the bead area. Then applied a 1/8 or so build up of JB quik weld. And pealed the tape off. Now I have a nice bead up behind the factory bead area. Hoping this holds. Can't imagine it wouldn't.
I'll sand it a bit once it sets.
Ordered a 3.75" T bolt clamp and plan to install it with hairspray. I'll report back once I get some testing on it. Some may not have issues at lower boost levels but I run 20+ and it's always been an issue.
Not bad. I had problems blowing them off pre intercooler. One of the reasons I think I have such a huge restriction from the intercooler. I ended up jb welding the coupler that kept blowing on the intercooler side connection to it. I left the pipe side able to be slipped off and on. Haven't popped it since and have hit 24 psi several times. When they blow at that level it pops pretty hard.
Looks like my lip started to fall off on one small area. Getting the rest of it off was a pain! Ended up taking it to the grinder. It was in no danger of "falling off" for sure.
I used JB Quick Weld the first time. I went ahead and used JB weld classic this time. We'll see if it holds up better. After seeing how well the rest of the bead was still attached I'd just repair the small area if it does this again.
Did a quick and dirty polish job with a wire wheel and dremel while it was off.
If i had a welder capable of doing alum i wouldnt be farting around with JB weld for sure. Ive seen a few guys wrap an alum welding rod around the lip and spot weld around it too.
If i had a welder capable of doing alum i wouldnt be farting around with JB weld for sure. Ive seen a few guys wrap an alum welding rod around the lip and spot weld around it too.
I've seen that done with stainless.
I know if I tried, it'd end up in a hole lol
What about you trying to find some thin stainless rod along with the epoxy to form a more solid lip ?
Epoxies of all sorts are great, but I find almost all do get soft over time when exposed to heat. And engines are warm.
No idea which would be the best quality to try.
What sort of hose and clamp are you actually using ?
Any as installed pics ?
With your lip, you would really need to ensure the clamp compresses on no part of it, otherwise it's likely to risk damaging or weakening it from those forces alone ?
People often get carried away with needing big T Bolt clamps, when one with a thinner band might actually work better. Near sure when I used the stock TB I cut away a part of the band to allow the clamp to sit further away from the edge of the opening.
What about you trying to find some thin stainless rod along with the epoxy to form a more solid lip ?
Epoxies of all sorts are great, but I find almost all do get soft over time when exposed to heat. And engines are warm.
No idea which would be the best quality to try.
What sort of hose and clamp are you actually using ?
Any as installed pics ?
With your lip, you would really need to ensure the clamp compresses on no part of it, otherwise it's likely to risk damaging or weakening it from those forces alone ?
People often get carried away with needing big T Bolt clamps, when one with a thinner band might actually work better. Near sure when I used the stock TB I cut away a part of the band to allow the clamp to sit further away from the edge of the opening.
In the pics above, you can see I cut a bunch of material back so I could get a wider clamp to sit well behind the bead. The 3.75" couplers are so snug on the TB it's easy to see where the lip is. My clamp sits well behind that area. Since doing this I've never blown a coupler off. I do use a wide T-bolt clamp, I don't over tighten it though.
The "KWIK" weld JB held up pretty well the rest of the lip was a bastard to remove. KWIK is rated to 300*, standard JB weld is rated at 500* with almost twice the tensile strength as the kwik weld. I think it should work really well.
Seems like a cool budget idea. However I'm sure any local welding shop with a tig or ever even a mig w a spool gun wouldn't charge but a few bux to weld a ring on it.
Ppl bring me stuff to b welded on a daily basis. Just walk in customers.
Usually fab or boat shops will have aluminum welding equipment.
I want to try this, but the 4" couplers are already so right there is no way I would get it into my throttle body. Mine would blow off at 14 or so PSI after I upgraded to the TBSS and a cable 92mm.
Now I use a 4" exhaust clamp. Ugly as hell, but works.
Silver Solder sticks just fine to Aluminum... MAPP torch and a loop of AL wire and your good to go.
If you drill a few holes for the silver to flow in to, you have a strong mechanical hold that doesn't solely rely on the solder bond. I still prefer to TIG a bead on, but sometimes the tools just aren't at hand.
06-14-2014, 07:46 PM
JY Throttle Body Bead... No welder required. 
