Here's my LS1 parts list for the very mild rebuild
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Here's my LS1 parts list for the very mild rebuild
Here is a list of most of the parts I plan on getting for the LS1. Please let me know if some of these parts are unnecessary like the studs or if you have parts for cheap
- ASP Crank Pulley
- Comp Cams Adj. Timing Set
- Comp Cams Lifters
- Comp Cams 918 springs
- Comp Cams Titanium Retainers
- Comp Cams Roller Rockers (1.75)
- Comp Cams Rocker Arm Studs
- Comp Cams Pushrod Guide
- TR Hardened Pushrods
- ARP Connecting Rod Bolts
- ARP Main Stud Kit
- ARP Head Stud Kit
- Valve Cover Spacers
- FelPro Head Gaskets (a little thicker than stock)
- LS6 Oil Pump
- Custom Cam (thinking about the Vinci 216/224 – 113LSA or a custom FMS cam)
These are some parts that I will be getting from the dealership:
-Cam Bearings
-Main Bearings
-Rod Bearings
I’ll also be getting some piston rings from twobit.
- ASP Crank Pulley
- Comp Cams Adj. Timing Set
- Comp Cams Lifters
- Comp Cams 918 springs
- Comp Cams Titanium Retainers
- Comp Cams Roller Rockers (1.75)
- Comp Cams Rocker Arm Studs
- Comp Cams Pushrod Guide
- TR Hardened Pushrods
- ARP Connecting Rod Bolts
- ARP Main Stud Kit
- ARP Head Stud Kit
- Valve Cover Spacers
- FelPro Head Gaskets (a little thicker than stock)
- LS6 Oil Pump
- Custom Cam (thinking about the Vinci 216/224 – 113LSA or a custom FMS cam)
These are some parts that I will be getting from the dealership:
-Cam Bearings
-Main Bearings
-Rod Bearings
I’ll also be getting some piston rings from twobit.
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Oh yeah, I knew I forgot something.
I want to send off my extra set of 5.3 heads to Absolute Speed and have them do a stage 1.5-2 port/polish, vavle job, etc.
I want to send off my extra set of 5.3 heads to Absolute Speed and have them do a stage 1.5-2 port/polish, vavle job, etc.
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I think the ARP main studs are overkill, plus you are supposed to get the main journals realigned if you use these, if I remember right.
The ARP head studs might be overkill too, but heck I got those and got my heads o-ringed too, so don't listen to me on that one.
Why the thicker head gasket? That will lower compression by a bit...
The ARP head studs might be overkill too, but heck I got those and got my heads o-ringed too, so don't listen to me on that one.
Why the thicker head gasket? That will lower compression by a bit...
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Thanks for the info guys! Keep'um coming!
I was wanting the thicker head gaskets, so I would lower the compression just a tad. I figure it wouldn't hurt considering the 5.3 heads would bump it up to ~11.xx anyways.
So, just reuse the stock head studs and roller rockers, right?
I was wanting the thicker head gaskets, so I would lower the compression just a tad. I figure it wouldn't hurt considering the 5.3 heads would bump it up to ~11.xx anyways.
So, just reuse the stock head studs and roller rockers, right?
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Originally Posted by 99silveradoSS
I was wanting the thicker head gaskets, so I would lower the compression just a tad. I figure it wouldn't hurt considering the 5.3 heads would bump it up to ~11.xx anyways.
So, just reuse the stock head studs and roller rockers, right?
So, just reuse the stock head studs and roller rockers, right?
You'll have to get new head bolts, can't reuse those. If you plan on pulling the heads more than just the one time, the studs are good because you don't have to keep buying bolts, and you don't have to keep cleaning the bolt holes...
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Originally Posted by John_D.
Your thoughts on the gasket make sense considering the 5.3 heads.
You'll have to get new head bolts, can't reuse those. If you plan on pulling the heads more than just the one time, the studs are good because you don't have to keep buying bolts, and you don't have to keep cleaning the bolt holes...
You'll have to get new head bolts, can't reuse those. If you plan on pulling the heads more than just the one time, the studs are good because you don't have to keep buying bolts, and you don't have to keep cleaning the bolt holes...
Does anybody know all the torque specs for the LS1? Like the roller rocker arm studs, valve cover studs, all the head bolts, etc.?
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There are better bearings out there and no need for the Heavy duty Comp Cams timing chain. You can just use a new stock piece. FelPro makes a new set of head bolts that are cheaper than studs. Either reuse the stock rockers or get a set of Harland Sharp roller rocker much cheaper and then you don`t need the valve cover spacers either. Main studs not necessary at your level as said they do require a line bore after installing them. Hope this helps let me know if you have some other questions. I can get you all the parts you have listed just let me know.
Nate
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I have some slightly used stock length MTI Hardened Pushrods I could sell you. They were used for about 1500 miles with my MTI B1 Cam. I've since changed cam and heads and needed shorter pushrods. $40 and they are yours.
PS. I'm going to post this in the For Sale section too.
Compression Ratio with 5.3 Heads and Fel pro's should be about 10:9.
I'd go with a little bigger cam if I were you. FMS is a good start. Those cams seem to produce tq. under the curve real well.
PS. I'm going to post this in the For Sale section too.
Compression Ratio with 5.3 Heads and Fel pro's should be about 10:9.
I'd go with a little bigger cam if I were you. FMS is a good start. Those cams seem to produce tq. under the curve real well.