Brake Squeak/Cackle
#1
Brake Squeak/Cackle
I cannot figure out what is causing my front right brake to squeak or cackle. . I have what I believe to be stock calipers with an unknown brand of drilled/slotted rotors and brake pads on the car when I bought it. Issue only occurs under slight/medium brake pedal pressure; full or no pressure does not result in noise.
This issue has been happening since a few months after buying the car. To attempt to resolve the issue I recently installed new caliper bracket, pins, and rubber boots on that wheel due to having to forcibly remove a stuck pin in the bracket a few months back. All pins, and brake pad back plates were installed with high-temp grease.
I thought it was fixed after replacing the bracket, pins, and boots but the issue resurfaced after about 1 day. I did notice the inner pad on that wheel had uneven wear, the side of the pad closer to the rear of the car was visibly more worn thant the front.
The only thing I have left to replace is the caliper, pads, and rotor. Could the uneven wear be causing the noise by allowing uneven contact to the rotor? And more importantly, should I risk installing new pads assuming it was the previously stuck pin that caused the uneven wear when it actually could be a bad caliper not producing even force between the two pistons?
Thanks
This issue has been happening since a few months after buying the car. To attempt to resolve the issue I recently installed new caliper bracket, pins, and rubber boots on that wheel due to having to forcibly remove a stuck pin in the bracket a few months back. All pins, and brake pad back plates were installed with high-temp grease.
I thought it was fixed after replacing the bracket, pins, and boots but the issue resurfaced after about 1 day. I did notice the inner pad on that wheel had uneven wear, the side of the pad closer to the rear of the car was visibly more worn thant the front.
The only thing I have left to replace is the caliper, pads, and rotor. Could the uneven wear be causing the noise by allowing uneven contact to the rotor? And more importantly, should I risk installing new pads assuming it was the previously stuck pin that caused the uneven wear when it actually could be a bad caliper not producing even force between the two pistons?
Thanks
#4
#5
I slathered a good amount of silicone grease on the backs of the pads. Never heard of antisqueal goo but something I did notice is that the backs of the pads have a layer of foam type material that's deteriorated.
#6
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iTrader: (5)
You might be able to jack it up and test it for side to side play.
If the noise happens consistently with the same brake force and in the same speed range, then that might indicate a hub problem. If it were a brake issue, I'd expect the problem to be similar at any speed.
How many miles do you have on the car and hubs?
#7
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The other possibility is your brakes are worn to the point that you're hearing the squealers (there to tell you the brakes are worn) built into the pads.
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#8
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iTrader: (5)
If it's something like SylGlyde, the OP should be OK safety-wise. That was all we had back-in-the-day, but it didn't always get rid of the squeal.
I do much prefer the newer synthetic stuff, though. It seems to last a lot longer. (Probably a good thing since modern brake pads do, also.)
I do much prefer the newer synthetic stuff, though. It seems to last a lot longer. (Probably a good thing since modern brake pads do, also.)
#9
Get the grease off there before you kill someone. Go to any parts store and ask for it. You can get a little package of it for probably a buck. Put it on the backs of the pads, let it set up a bit and reinstall the pads.
The other possibility is your brakes are worn to the point that you're hearing the squealers (there to tell you the brakes are worn) built into the pads.
Regardless I'll definitely give the anti squeal stuff a try. I'll report back rather or not it helped.
#10
When my hubs went bad, I could only feel/hear the problem with the wheel, brakes, and rotor off.
You might be able to jack it up and test it for side to side play.
If the noise happens consistently with the same brake force and in the same speed range, then that might indicate a hub problem. If it were a brake issue, I'd expect the problem to be similar at any speed.
How many miles do you have on the car and hubs?
#11
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The grease is for the pins, not the pads. Get that stuff on the pads and you'll play hell getting the car stopped.
#12
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Every pad set I've ever gotten instructs to lube the back of the pads, even if it comes with shims.
#14
You are right at the window where the hubs start to get tired, so a bad hub would not be unheard of. If you are going to tweak the pads again, I'd suggest taking off the caliper and rotor. Then spin the hub by hand. If it sounds or feels like a meat grinder, it's probably time for a new one.
Every pad set I've ever gotten instructs to lube the back of the pads, even if it comes with shims.
Every pad set I've ever gotten instructs to lube the back of the pads, even if it comes with shims.
#15
Bringing this thread back to life, I am still having this issue and it seems worse than ever. I have pretty much replaced every brake part on the offending wheel and the issue persists. I put the 'anti-squeal' stuff on the back of the pads and it didn't make a bit of difference.
I guess my next step will be to check the the hubs. Changing the oil tomorrow so I'll jack it up, take the rotor/caliper off and give it a spin. How much friction should I expect or how long should I expect it to spin freely?
I guess my next step will be to check the the hubs. Changing the oil tomorrow so I'll jack it up, take the rotor/caliper off and give it a spin. How much friction should I expect or how long should I expect it to spin freely?
#16
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Bringing this thread back to life, I am still having this issue and it seems worse than ever. I have pretty much replaced every brake part on the offending wheel and the issue persists. I put the 'anti-squeal' stuff on the back of the pads and it didn't make a bit of difference.
I guess my next step will be to check the the hubs. Changing the oil tomorrow so I'll jack it up, take the rotor/caliper off and give it a spin. How much friction should I expect or how long should I expect it to spin freely?
I guess my next step will be to check the the hubs. Changing the oil tomorrow so I'll jack it up, take the rotor/caliper off and give it a spin. How much friction should I expect or how long should I expect it to spin freely?
#17
Anyway, I'll post back when I actually have more info.
#18
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I like buying good parts here. You should expect to pay around $250. ($125 per hub - you typically do both sides at the same time.)
The hardest part is taking the brake caliper off. If you can do that, then you have the skill to replace the hub.
You get the hubs in an assembly. They attach to the car with 4 bolts and just have one electrical connector to un-clip. (for the ABS speed sensor) The only special tool you need is a good torque wrench. Getting the right torque on these bolts (and the brake caliper bolts) is essential.
You get the hubs in an assembly. They attach to the car with 4 bolts and just have one electrical connector to un-clip. (for the ABS speed sensor) The only special tool you need is a good torque wrench. Getting the right torque on these bolts (and the brake caliper bolts) is essential.
#19
I like buying good parts here. You should expect to pay around $250. ($125 per hub - you typically do both sides at the same time.)
The hardest part is taking the brake caliper off. If you can do that, then you have the skill to replace the hub.
You get the hubs in an assembly. They attach to the car with 4 bolts and just have one electrical connector to un-clip. (for the ABS speed sensor) The only special tool you need is a good torque wrench. Getting the right torque on these bolts (and the brake caliper bolts) is essential.
The hardest part is taking the brake caliper off. If you can do that, then you have the skill to replace the hub.
You get the hubs in an assembly. They attach to the car with 4 bolts and just have one electrical connector to un-clip. (for the ABS speed sensor) The only special tool you need is a good torque wrench. Getting the right torque on these bolts (and the brake caliper bolts) is essential.