where do I go from here? Bad Pinion Bearing
07-31-2014, 08:14 PM
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where do I go from here? Bad Pinion Bearing So I have a 2002 SS M6 76k miles. Has a whine at low throttle in all gears. Shop put it on the rack and said it was coming from the rear end and was most likely bearings. I changed the fluid last month and the ring and pinion looked great, no shavings on the magnet.
The car also has a vibration that rattles my shift **** like crazy. A buddy thinks I have a bent axle that is causing wear on the bearings?
The shop quoted $500-800 just for the bearing fix.
I will be pushing 450+ hp when I am done with my car. I don't have the time or capabilities to swap in a 9" axle.
Do I swap in a higher spline chromoly axles and upgrade to 5.11's??? I also don't want to drop 2g's on the rear end. I feel like if its getting torn apart, I want to get something performance out of the process.....
What are my options?
Also its not a DD, its a toy. Rare street drags and maybe some rare auto cross in the future.
Thanks in advance!!!
The car also has a vibration that rattles my shift **** like crazy. A buddy thinks I have a bent axle that is causing wear on the bearings?
The shop quoted $500-800 just for the bearing fix.
I will be pushing 450+ hp when I am done with my car. I don't have the time or capabilities to swap in a 9" axle.
Do I swap in a higher spline chromoly axles and upgrade to 5.11's??? I also don't want to drop 2g's on the rear end. I feel like if its getting torn apart, I want to get something performance out of the process.....
What are my options?
Also its not a DD, its a toy. Rare street drags and maybe some rare auto cross in the future.
Thanks in advance!!!
08-01-2014, 05:52 PM
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Just a related question for anyone out there;
Does a bad pinion bearing whine go up and down with speed, and will the noise EVER go 'on and off' with accel and coast, like a bad, or improperly set up ring and pinion would??
Does a bad pinion bearing whine go up and down with speed, and will the noise EVER go 'on and off' with accel and coast, like a bad, or improperly set up ring and pinion would??
08-01-2014, 07:40 PM
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08-01-2014, 09:50 PM
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08-02-2014, 08:00 AM
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You have the time and money to make it hit 450+ HP, but you don't have the time and money to make your car reliable in the process? Do I detect a disconnect here?
You're going about this bass ackwards, and will cause yourself immense frustration and heartache in the process. With these cars, you should build them from the back end forward to maintain your sanity. Anything else is dumping cash into a black hole.
You're going about this bass ackwards, and will cause yourself immense frustration and heartache in the process. With these cars, you should build them from the back end forward to maintain your sanity. Anything else is dumping cash into a black hole.
08-03-2014, 04:59 PM
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You have the time and money to make it hit 450+ HP, but you don't have the time and money to make your car reliable in the process? Do I detect a disconnect here?
You're going about this bass ackwards, and will cause yourself immense frustration and heartache in the process. With these cars, you should build them from the back end forward to maintain your sanity. Anything else is dumping cash into a black hole.
You're going about this bass ackwards, and will cause yourself immense frustration and heartache in the process. With these cars, you should build them from the back end forward to maintain your sanity. Anything else is dumping cash into a black hole.
08-03-2014, 05:46 PM
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BTW; it can run MUCH MORE THAN 3Gs if one opts for a fully loaded MWC 9 with a Wavetrac (or above) diff, and their Watts link setup.
Last edited by dailydriver; 08-07-2014 at 02:51 PM.
08-03-2014, 05:46 PM
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Thanks! What about axels is there chromoly upgrades? What about an increased spline? I don't mind spending a little $ to upgrade parts but I'm not going to spend the money on a whole new rear end. The majority of my cars use is romping on it to drive to dinner on a sat night....
08-03-2014, 05:55 PM
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I hear ya, and it is especially not necessary [b]IF[/i] one is NOT going to be launching the car on a sticky, prepped track with gumball MTs or such, looking for that <1.4 60 foot like everyone else on here, despite everyone who will now pipe in and state that both they and their twice removed third cousin have grenaded their 10 bolts on 500 treadwear, street all seasons, with lower than stock power.
BTW; it can run MUCH MORE THAN 3Gs if one opts for a fully loaded MWC 9 with a Wavetrac (or above) diff, and their Watts link setup.
BTW; it can run MUCH MORE THAN 3Gs if one opts for a fully loaded MWC 9 with a Wavetrac (or above) diff, and their Watts link setup.
I appreciate that if you are building a car right then build it back to front... But the reality is most people want to buy performance parts cause we enjoy that aspect of the cars. Not that great of an excitement for me to have a LS1 that sounds like a Pontiac grand am but sits on a 3k or more rear end!!!
In fantasy world I would also like an LS7 engine with twins but that's not going to happen!! Lol
Last edited by firefighter34; 08-03-2014 at 06:06 PM.
08-03-2014, 06:32 PM
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"What about axels is there chromoly upgrades? What about an increased spline?"
There are aftermarket axles,typically bought to replace an axle with un-serviceable bearing surface. Their claims are 'better than OEM',but how do you prove that ?
You never stated if the car is 3 channel ABS or 4 channel ABS & TC. 3 channel axles are not a problem,4 channel axles you gotta remove your ABS/TC rings off the original axles and put them onto the new axles. The rings are PRESSED off/on !
You can't increase the splines(28) as the axles go into the carrier and nobody supplies our carriers with more than 28 splines.
There are aftermarket axles,typically bought to replace an axle with un-serviceable bearing surface. Their claims are 'better than OEM',but how do you prove that ?
You never stated if the car is 3 channel ABS or 4 channel ABS & TC. 3 channel axles are not a problem,4 channel axles you gotta remove your ABS/TC rings off the original axles and put them onto the new axles. The rings are PRESSED off/on !
You can't increase the splines(28) as the axles go into the carrier and nobody supplies our carriers with more than 28 splines.
08-03-2014, 06:48 PM
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"What about axels is there chromoly upgrades? What about an increased spline?"
There are aftermarket axles,typically bought to replace an axle with un-serviceable bearing surface. Their claims are 'better than OEM',but how do you prove that ?
You never stated if the car is 3 channel ABS or 4 channel ABS & TC. 3 channel axles are not a problem,4 channel axles you gotta remove your ABS/TC rings off the original axles and put them onto the new axles. The rings are PRESSED off/on !
You can't increase the splines(28) as the axles go into the carrier and nobody supplies our carriers with more than 28 splines.
There are aftermarket axles,typically bought to replace an axle with un-serviceable bearing surface. Their claims are 'better than OEM',but how do you prove that ?
You never stated if the car is 3 channel ABS or 4 channel ABS & TC. 3 channel axles are not a problem,4 channel axles you gotta remove your ABS/TC rings off the original axles and put them onto the new axles. The rings are PRESSED off/on !
You can't increase the splines(28) as the axles go into the carrier and nobody supplies our carriers with more than 28 splines.
08-03-2014, 06:50 PM
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So is the answer to fix the current problem (the bearing) and leave it alone unless it ***** out? Also the shop quoted me 500-800 to change the bearing and they hadn't even looked inside the pumpkin?
Last edited by firefighter34; 08-03-2014 at 07:58 PM.
08-03-2014, 08:41 PM
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I hear ya, and it is especially not necessary [b]IF[/i] one is NOT going to be launching the car on a sticky, prepped track with gumball MTs or such, looking for that <1.4 60 foot like everyone else on here, despite everyone who will now pipe in and state that both they and their twice removed third cousin have grenaded their 10 bolts on 500 treadwear, street all seasons, with lower than stock power.
Your choice, you can drop some coin now and have it reliable. Or you can drop it over and over again on a piece of tin that's barely adequate in a 3300 lb. 4 cylinder truck. But you WILL drop the coin, one way or another.
There really is a reason people say to get a different rear, and it doesn't really have much to do with how you drive the car. It has a lot to do with GM trying to save a buck using a sub standard piece for the application.
OBTW, a Strange S-60, 4.10 Eaton and a new chromemoly drive shaft with 1350 ujoints is $3k exactly (delivered). And I'll never worry about the rear again.
08-03-2014, 10:10 PM
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Sorry, friend...but I'll throw the BS flag on this one. I have a bone stock 96 Trans Am M6. When I bought the car, I got if from the original owner ( a complete non racer). I beat on the rear exactly one time, from a 30 mph roll with a 3k clutch dump...just enough to bark a set of street tires. The rear IMMEDIATELY started howling. This is the exact same rear that my 95 S-10 4 banger has...and I've hurt that one, too, although in a different fashion.
Your choice, you can drop some coin now and have it reliable. Or you can drop it over and over again on a piece of tin that's barely adequate in a 3300 lb. 4 cylinder truck. But you WILL drop the coin, one way or another.
There really is a reason people say to get a different rear, and it doesn't really have much to do with how you drive the car. It has a lot to do with GM trying to save a buck using a sub standard piece for the application.
OBTW, a Strange S-60, 4.10 Eaton and a new chromemoly drive shaft with 1350 ujoints is $3k exactly (delivered). And I'll never worry about the rear again.
Your choice, you can drop some coin now and have it reliable. Or you can drop it over and over again on a piece of tin that's barely adequate in a 3300 lb. 4 cylinder truck. But you WILL drop the coin, one way or another.
There really is a reason people say to get a different rear, and it doesn't really have much to do with how you drive the car. It has a lot to do with GM trying to save a buck using a sub standard piece for the application.
OBTW, a Strange S-60, 4.10 Eaton and a new chromemoly drive shaft with 1350 ujoints is $3k exactly (delivered). And I'll never worry about the rear again.
Hey I can't blame you for doing it right.. Conversely I have had 4 camaros now and I beat pretty hard on my 95m6. Never had a problem with any of them. One of my buddy's has a ws6 with a slp built 406. Never has had a problem with his either. The more I have read, unless your going to be dropping 4500 rpm drag starts, it's not worth it to upgrade. If I was going to spend that kind of money I would upgrade to a vette...
Last edited by firefighter34; 08-03-2014 at 10:35 PM.
