What's a good budget differential for 4th gens?
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What's a good budget differential for 4th gens?
I recently purchased a 4th gen, and I know they come with the torsion diffs. I was planning to use it to teach my girlfriend how to autocross, and drift, and do track days.
To my extreme dismay, while doing some donuts that would make any avid monster truck fan delighted, I decided to do donuts the other way, and it wasn't happening.
Short of going with a spool or welded diff, what are some options that actually work in a situation where the car is turning left and right with 30+ mph more wheelspeed than the car is actually going?
Car is going to be pretty much left completely stock, other than modifications for more turning radius, and probably some enhanced components to listen to Metallica.
I thought the Torsen would work okay...I was very incorrect on that hypothesis.
To my extreme dismay, while doing some donuts that would make any avid monster truck fan delighted, I decided to do donuts the other way, and it wasn't happening.
Short of going with a spool or welded diff, what are some options that actually work in a situation where the car is turning left and right with 30+ mph more wheelspeed than the car is actually going?
Car is going to be pretty much left completely stock, other than modifications for more turning radius, and probably some enhanced components to listen to Metallica.
I thought the Torsen would work okay...I was very incorrect on that hypothesis.
#2
They do not all come with a Torsen...depending on the year it came with an Auburn. My 95 has a factory Auburn.
I am thinking of getting a diff over the winter.
Auburn Racers diff $560
Torsen T2R (hear a lot of quality issues)
Eaton TrueTrac $450
Those are the 3...well 2 on my list. I am in the same boat running my 95 Z at autocross. I had the issue of my rear passenger tire unloading and spinning around RH turns on Nitto NT555's with stock shocks/springs. When I went to Khumo V710's the issue got A LOT worse.
Fast forward I have added Koni shocks/strano springs, front and rear sway bar, and a watts link in hopes that reducing body roll would minimize this...nope LOL.
So in the end I think a diff is the final cure. I have spoken with a couple of different Fbody autocross/RR owners and they have nothing bad to say about the Auburn or TrueTrac.
Auburn offers a 4 year rebuild program. But I keep hearing that for the occasional autocross and a lot of DDing a TrueTrac would be better option due to price.
I by no means am planning on going to nationals nor am I getting FTD every time. But I would like my diff to WORK correctly since I have spent so much time and money in the suspension only to have my shitty stock diff screw me LOL.
I am thinking of getting a diff over the winter.
Auburn Racers diff $560
Torsen T2R (hear a lot of quality issues)
Eaton TrueTrac $450
Those are the 3...well 2 on my list. I am in the same boat running my 95 Z at autocross. I had the issue of my rear passenger tire unloading and spinning around RH turns on Nitto NT555's with stock shocks/springs. When I went to Khumo V710's the issue got A LOT worse.
Fast forward I have added Koni shocks/strano springs, front and rear sway bar, and a watts link in hopes that reducing body roll would minimize this...nope LOL.
So in the end I think a diff is the final cure. I have spoken with a couple of different Fbody autocross/RR owners and they have nothing bad to say about the Auburn or TrueTrac.
Auburn offers a 4 year rebuild program. But I keep hearing that for the occasional autocross and a lot of DDing a TrueTrac would be better option due to price.
I by no means am planning on going to nationals nor am I getting FTD every time. But I would like my diff to WORK correctly since I have spent so much time and money in the suspension only to have my shitty stock diff screw me LOL.
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When I bought my car it had a brand new Eaton unit, these are a clutch type nothing like the torsen. 2nd time at the track one of the clutch retainer clips came out so anyway I needed a diff. Only had the car 2 months. I got a used auburn unit from someone that had a lot of LT1 cars. Had zero problems with that. That's what I'd recommend!
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Torsen type diffs like it and the trutrac have a limited amount of bias they can inflict. Meaning when you turn they can only redirect a certain amount of power. That's probably why you are getting one wheel peel sometimes depending on condition. I personally like them, I've had both. They seem smooth, quiet, and predictable and have never failed to leave two equal black marks when going straight. They may not be the absolute best for a donut machine, unless you learn their little nuisances.
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^^^The Torsen T2R DOES have a lot of bias (4:1 ratio), BUT, sadly, as smitty has mentioned, the ones for the 7.65" 10 bolt GMs have had MANY case failures, even in cars NEVER used for drag racing/60 footing, and ONLY used in autocross and open track/road racing events.