scj

iTrader: (89)

So I recently went into installing an improved racing 212f thermostatic ls engine oil cooler adapter.

Let me just start and say this would be completely impossible with the engine in the car.. Okay it may be possible but not without lots of cussing and bloody knuckles.

So I purchased a 212*f improved racing oil cooler adapter w/-10 fittings. A mocal oil cooler to match and 15ft of -10an hose. Unsure of what fittings would fit I waited to mock the adaptet up before ordering any hose ends, and boy am I glad I did.

Running -10 lines makes things extremely right in this particular area. There's little to no room right where this bolts up where the primary's run down. I'm running ARH 1 7/8" headers so running a smaller primary and if possible -8an line would probably leave you with more space to work with. I don't know how other headers fit, so you may have more/less room with different manufactures. I really like the fitment of my ARH headers so I'm working with what I have and think it turned out great.

There's very little space above the adapter so after lots of measuring I figured I needed to run the lowest profile fittings I could find. Despite improved racings recommended hose ends listed on their web page there's just no room. I bought some regular hose ends from a local vender just to test and none fit.

I ended up running a fragola direct fit 90* -8an oring to -10an hose end on the outlet and a low profile -10an 90* hose end on the inlet. The hoses were still close to the header, so I purchased some heat protection sleeve from Taylor and insulated the lines where they pass the header. The outlet is still really close especially with the sleeve, but I think it won't be an issue with the sleeve protecting it from heat. The inlet will be plenty cool so I'm as happy as I'm gonna get with this fitment as there's not any more room to work with.

Here's a few pictures, I hope this helps anyone in the same boat.

ImprovedRacing

Great post, very useful info.

To add to this, it seems the iron blocks (including the LSX) have that additional freeze plug that decreases clearance for the fittings with our thermostat. With these blocks you either have to clock the fittings slightly (which can be a problem if you have little header clearance) or use low profile fittings like above. If you have an aluminum LS block, you shouldn't have any problems using standard fittings.

If anyone else is using our adapters with different headers, please post up on fitment and clearances. We are compiling a list of which headers our thermostats will or won't work with in each vehicle in order to help out customers.

1981TA

iTrader: (7)

I'll post pics later, but I have a LS1 aluminum block, corvette batwing pan, Edelbrock Musclecar headers in a 2nd Gen Trans Am. Everything fit perfectly, and I could install my 180 degree Improved Racing adapter with the engine in the car (pretty much looks like the OPs adapter), but could not do so with the headers in the car. I also put heat protective sleeves on mine.

1981TA

iTrader: (7)

I pulled my heads in anticipation of a shortblock swap (replacing LS1 with LS2), which explains the water everywhere. Anyway, as mentioned, this is in a 2nd Gen F-body with a T56 and a Corvette Batwing oil pan. The JB Weld on the lines is there just for scuff resistance.





top view, header removed





underneath view

scj

iTrader: (89)

The aluminum blocks not having this rear freeze plug like in my block really frees up a lot of space.

ImprovedRacing

Correct, the iron blocks make fitment a little trickier due to the extra plug.