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Electronic issues after valve spring swap.

Old 10-29-2014, 09:36 AM
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Exclamation Electronic issues after valve spring swap.

I have tried looking through the forums but have not seen a post with everything my car has done, but similar but have not helped. I`m not sure where to start with my car.

2000 LS1-auto. Just replaced valve springs cause of cam swap. (Cam swap done while ago, just did springs)

What it very started with was my blinkers were slow. ooooooon, off, ooooooon, off. .... I believe first light to come on was TCS off (Button didnt work), then ABS and service vehicle came on. (Car has codes from EGR, AIR, delete etc.. I`ll check again later today though). After driving for maybe 10 minutes, my blinkers dont work at all, also all of my gauges turn off and twitch. Go home right away and turn it off. Wont start, makes tick..tick.tick. tick.tick.tick. clicking sound (Like dead battery kind of clicking sound, but battery is good). I found that after car sits for a little it will start back up.

It will start with just TCS off light being on, after ABS/SV comes on then it wont start. All my lights work yet though.

(One thing I noticed, not sure if relevant or not. the clip with a connecter on it that attaches to the TC unit is loose, I wasnt sure if it was ground or if it was just to hold it)

Thanks, it is very appreciated for anything.
Old 10-29-2014, 01:03 PM
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UPDATE: I was driving around in car to see what it would do, I found out that after driving for a little bit (15-20 mins) that the car had started to shut down. I immediately turned off the road and could give quite a bit of gas and the car would not go more than idle. The idle was not very good. (Car is cammed, but this idle sounded like it would fire once every half second.) Any help is help.
Old 10-29-2014, 02:03 PM
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Check the fuel pump and relays, as these could go bad at ANY time, and would have no tie at all to your valve train upgrades.

The symptoms you describe are the same ones mine showed when the pump went bad.
Old 10-29-2014, 09:31 PM
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Just wondering if there were particular fuses/relays to check, also what would I need to check out on the fuel pump?
Old 10-31-2014, 11:21 PM
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Was wondering if something on the alternator was messing up. When I tried to start it up it made the same sound when things messed up, but it actually was pretty dead this time. I put battery from my truck into the car and it started right up. When I did valve springs I did tug on the wired where the IAT, TPS, MAF, all go and wondered if something on alternator got tugged off, making the battery not charge... or something along those lines? Wondered if the low voltage caused the car to think it was being stolen and entered a `lockdown` mode because of the security? Don`t know where to go with this.
Old 10-31-2014, 11:30 PM
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I you have a voltage tester it should read 13 volts or higher. If it's only showing 12 volts while running it's probably something alternator related. If you don't have a voltage tester you can check the alternator by unhooking one battery cable while it's running, If it's putting out a charge it will stay running. The driving around and having it run worse little by little make me think it was just running off the battery alone until the battery no longer had enough charge to keep the electronics or fuel pump running. I would check all the wiring leading to the alternator. If it comes down to it you can always pull the alternator and have it tested before replacing it.
Old 11-02-2014, 09:53 PM
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Finally found what was causing the issue!! After the first battery went dead, I decided to try a different one.. from my other DD. Issue happened again so I decided to look farther into this. A couple things happened during diagnosis. Seen the voltmeter was on the edge of the caution between the 8 and 13 volts. When it was running I believe it was around 11.** volts and was dropping. But it showed closer to around the 10 mark. Tested battery with vehicle off. Showed 12.23V after moving the car a bit. Started up, and checked.. and found that voltage was dropping. I did this to make sure it was not charging - rather than parasitic loss.

Got looking around the alternator and then wouldn`t you know it! Seen the little red wire, which is suppose to plug into the alternator, was torn out of the quick connecter!! Explains why it wouldn`t charge.

Have to go to salvage yard tomorrow morning (45 minutes away) before my classes so I can hopefully get everything put back together and get it running. I might be getting a couple connecters in case it happens to me again.


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