RockinWs6

Yamaha Combustion Cleaner http://www.allsportinc.com/catalog_p...berCleaner.htm Ran this through the intake at the throttle body to clean up the intake etc. It's a aerosol can with a straw, I ran it for about 10 mins at idle into the frt of the intake.

Now the car lost all its power, O2's are switching ok and everything looks normal when I scan it but the exhaust sounds muffled. It doesn't sound near as loud as it did and its a pup to drive. I tried going WOT a few times thinking maybe the cats got clogged with carbon but it didn't help.

Any one else ever use this Yamaha cleaner? Car was running great before I used it.

Maybe it runs that much better carboned up?

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Yes...I've used it. Worked very well. You shouldn't run the car that long spraying it continuously into the intake. You should spray it till the can starts to run out, engine only idling, no revving, maybe 30 seconds or so....then have a friend inside the car shut the engine off when the can starts to run out.......as you continue to finish spraying the bottle. Then let it sit for 3-4 hours and let it do its work.

You should then start the engine and ONLY let it idle for about 15-20 minutes. Idle only....no revs.

Then....go for a very mellow drive cruising around like a grandma for about 15 minutes to clear all the chemical out and off of everything. It gets pooled inside the intake and takes a while for the airflow to remove it all.

Then....after that 15 minutes of mellow driving......do some nice long, gradual accelerations up to about 60-70mph and then let off the gas and slow back down to about 35-40. Maybe 3-4 times.

Then.....do the same gradual accelerations up to about 80-100mph.......do this until you can accelerate with ZERO hesitations or missing.......

If its totally smooth......then go WOT........

....Was the can of Yamaha cleaner you bought a foaming agent....or did it stay as a liquid after spraying it....? Foams are the only types of top end cleaner you should ever use.

Also......you should have introduced it into the front vacuum port on the intake, passengers side. Where the PCV line connects.

....You may have to drive it till the spark plugs get clean. There's really nothing else that can cause the loss of power.....if the 02's are working fine. Next time do it with the 02 sensors removed, it just needs to idle. Then you run no chance of damaging them.....it happens sometimes with a top end clean. OH....and you have to start the cleaning AFTER the engine is totally hot, all the way up to operating temp.

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LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner (MCCC) is still available.....just gotta get lucky finding it.

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RockinWs6

Its not foam. It took 10 mins and there was still about a 1/3 left in the can. I think it ruined the new spark plugs I just had put in a few weeks ago. Must have glazed them because I noticed it acting sluggish just like it did with the old plugs. Seems to perk up at times but still doesn't run anything like it did before I sprayed this into the intake.

I used the purge port on the left hand side, ran at idle about 10 mins then let it sit 3 hrs. It started right up but as I pulled out on the road it miss fired a few times then cleared up. Just sounds and feels weak running, car has always run very well. If it doesn't come around soon I'll try having the plugs changed again.

Wish I never done it, just made trouble where there was none. I tossed the rest of the can in the garbage.

87gnx

iTrader: (3)

I don't think the Mopar combustion chamber cleaner is available anymore. I use the BG44K.Its the only thing that I've found that works(imho). The residue from that Yamacrap should eventually burn off. $0.02

high n dry

iTrader: (18)

You guys are wasting ur time n money on these cleaners...
Sea foam works the best. It's the only thing I use, it's never failed me...EVER!

dailydriver

Is that new CRC stuff a foam? (The one that's designed mainly for direct injection engines, but can be used for port injection intake valve cleanup as well.)

RockinWs6

I was driving it at light throttle and noticed at times the fuel trims dropping to -12. At the same time the 02's are switching ok, I'm thinking the plugs are not firing clean causing the too much O2 in the exhaust causing a lean condition. Only thing that really makes any sense right now. Gonna try driving it for a few days, if it doesn't get better gonna try plugs 1st then O2 sensors next.

RockinWs6

Friend of mine has a weld shop and repairs cat convertors all the time. He told me there is a inlet screen that stops crap from getting jammed in cat itself. He thinks I probably blocked the screens. He also has a product spray foam you spray into the engine while its running that he says will dissolve the carbon blocking the screens. Gonna try it tonight.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Was the engine hot before you started......that will keep the plugs from fouling from any cleaner.

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LS6427

iTrader: (2)

MCCC

http://www.factorymoparparts.com/043...FYtr7AodzWAAtg

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Chris25

iTrader: (1)

I found it on Amazon for like 9$. Goin to give it a shot this week.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

If you do it right.....it will clean the entire top end. And not just a joke of a cleaning like SeaFoam does to just the two rear cylinders and runners........MCCC will will actually clean everything.

Most important things to do.....

-engine fully hot
-use a 1 ft long piece of hose attached to the vacuum port to spray it into the intake......the hose allows the chemical to start to expand and foam up before it blasts into the intake....IMPORTANT...If you use a clear piece of hose you will see the white foam.
-ONLY idle while spraying it into the vacuum port
-have a friend shut the engine off BEFORE the spray can runs empty
-CONTINUE to spray the can into the hose even after the engine turns off so you fill the intake as much as possible.
-Then remove the MAF and clean the TB and MAF with MAF cleaner...also spray the IAT sensor with MAF cleaner.
-Wait overnight if you can.......but 3-4 hours minimum.
-Then start it and ONLY idle it for 15 min.
-Then drive mellow for 15 min.
-Then do 3-4 slow easy accelerations to clear everything out of the intake from 40mph up to about 60-70mph. Then slow back down easy.
-When you feel ZERO hesitations of missing.....then do a WOT run.

Smoke shows are meaningless.......the stuff will clean things out. The big laugh I get from the SeaFoam people is how it smokes. What they fail to understand is that SeaFoam is a pure liquid....its heavy...gravity pulls it downward towards earth......and when you pour it into the brake booster line...or any line for that matter....that LIQUID is heavy and it settles right to the bottom of the intake and pools inside like puddles. Then after they wasted 3-4 hours thinking there engine is getting cleaned.......they then start it up and let the engine idle or rev it up.....whatever.....and the smoke they see are those puddles/pools of LIQUID slowly getting sucked through the engine and burnt along with the fuel-air in the cylinders and it makes a smoke show......COOOOOOL.......They dont realize they just cleaned the rear two cylinders only and

But hey.....cool smoke show.

Foam expands inside and touches every square inch of the inside....liquids cannot do that unless you submerge the engine in a tank of SeaFoam....lol

....If you want to.....pull your "fuel pump fuse" so your engine cannot start. After you have shut the engine down.....and you emptied the rest of the can into the intake......turn the engine over like one time. Bump the key a couple times. This will allow all the valves to open and suck some foam into every cylinder and you will be sure all 8 get some foam. More importantly, you will be sure that all of the valves are surrounded by foam....the valves are more important to clean then the pistons, in most cases. Just bump the key a couple times....if you turn the engine over more than one revolution you will then suck a lot of the foam through the engine into the exhaust pipes.......

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Chris25

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the write up I appreciate that. Car has a 130k on the clock so Im sure its about due for it. I will report back with the results.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

And when you are going to do it....don't shut the engine off after you have warmed it up to operating temp.....keep it running.....just pop the hood and pull the PCV vacuum hose off..(gently, and straight off...twisting as you pull....don't crack that port off).....then spray it in.

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RockinWs6

UPDATE: Car is fixed, cat inlets were clogged with carbon. Seems the Yamaha combustion cleaner breaks the carbon off but doesn't dissolve enough to go through the cats. Friend of mine has a shop, uses a product called EnviroTek. He ran a can of their cleaner through the intake at idle. Car runs like new again.

dailydriver

This whole procedure is probably best to do (but not absolutely necessary IF you go for a long, over 1 hour drive after it is running correctly) right before an oil change, since some of this foam will get past the rings and into the sump to dilute/possibly contaminate the oil.

(Again, this will only happen if you only do very short trips after doing the whole cleaning procedure. )

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Thats cool.......thats another reason to make sure the engine is HOT before you do any top end cleaner. The cats must be very hot.....then nothing will stick in there and get clogged inside them....

Envirotek.....good stuff too.

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LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I meant to do this before the Top End Cleaning process is started......keep the engine running after warming it up to do the top end clean........I wasn't talking about after the procedure what to do.

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RockinWs6

When I put the Yamaha cleaner through the engine was not fully warmed up. Maybe why it clogged the cats.

I'm hoping it will use less oil now that the rings are clean. The spark threads are not covered in oil but It uses a qt every 1k miles.