just bought 94 Camaro Z28 with automatic transmission issue
01-06-2015, 10:50 PM
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just bought 94 Camaro Z28 with automatic transmission issue Okay, I just purchase this really nice 94 camaro Z28. Sounds bitch'n but it won't go.amywhere. to make a lomg story short. I bought her for $1000.00 beautiful red and black paint scheme. Well when I got it the second owner a good 24 year old in meed of money. Well the guy said it would need engine amd tramsmission work. Being an automatic I was already dreading the worst. Well it shifts but appears to go no where. It will shift into all gears but none of them work including reverse. I droped the pan and found way to much fluid in the sump. I also noticed the shift soleniod disconected. I reconnected terminals and relplaced the transmission filter and fluid. Upon start up I turned the car on and attemped to shift. It shifted into all gears but no movement. If I accelarated while in 1st it moves just enough to get the car up the driveway No reverse thou...
Where should I start and what should in buy?
Where should I start and what should in buy?
01-07-2015, 12:26 PM
#3
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What do you mean by “It shifted into all gears but no movement”? Do you mean that the shift will move into all positions or that you can actually feel the trans shift when you give the engine throttle? If the driveshaft is turning and the car is not moving you will to check the diff.
01-07-2015, 07:30 PM
#4
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Yeah, how do you know it shifted into all gears?
With a shift solenoid disconnected it won't shift; although you may have mixed up the solenoids.
Yup, tell us if the driveshaft turns.
If not, I suspect very low fluid pressure, a clogged filter or a defective trans pump.
With a shift solenoid disconnected it won't shift; although you may have mixed up the solenoids.
Yup, tell us if the driveshaft turns.
If not, I suspect very low fluid pressure, a clogged filter or a defective trans pump.
01-08-2015, 11:08 PM
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Okay, the shifter will go thru every position. However, the transmission does not seam to engage properly. Is there a slave cylinder? Or does the shift cable have an adjustment? Should I just change all shift solenoids? I didnt see any metal shavings when I dropped the pan and drained the transmission fluid. Should I just pull the transmission?
01-09-2015, 04:55 PM
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transmission pump location? diagram? pictures Where can I find the transmission pump?
01-09-2015, 07:58 PM
#7
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The shifter is connected to the trans by a cable.
Confirm that you have Park. This will confirm that your rear end and driveshaft are OK.
Then put the shifter into Reverse; if you can then roll the car, it is no longer in Park and likely in Reverse.
Reverse does not use anything electrical, not the PCM, not the solenoids.
If your wheels are locked in Park, but you have no motion in Reverse, then it is very low fluid pressure, a clogged filter, a defective trans pump, a defective converter or a broken internal part.
The pump is an internal part.
Here is a quick/approximate way to check the pump:
1. Check your trans fluid level with the engine OFF. It should be about 1" above the full mark.
2. Start the engine and check the fluid level again.
3. If it went down by 1" or so, the pump is likely working. If it did not go down, then either the pump is defective or the converter is not bolted to the flexplate.
Make these tests and tell us the results.
Confirm that you have Park. This will confirm that your rear end and driveshaft are OK.
Then put the shifter into Reverse; if you can then roll the car, it is no longer in Park and likely in Reverse.
Reverse does not use anything electrical, not the PCM, not the solenoids.
If your wheels are locked in Park, but you have no motion in Reverse, then it is very low fluid pressure, a clogged filter, a defective trans pump, a defective converter or a broken internal part.
The pump is an internal part.
Here is a quick/approximate way to check the pump:
1. Check your trans fluid level with the engine OFF. It should be about 1" above the full mark.
2. Start the engine and check the fluid level again.
3. If it went down by 1" or so, the pump is likely working. If it did not go down, then either the pump is defective or the converter is not bolted to the flexplate.
Make these tests and tell us the results.
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01-13-2015, 02:28 AM
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Okay, the transmission pump is perfect.
I have reverse and nothing else it seams... I can put it in drive and it seams to coast from 1st and gradually gathers speed like the car coasts through the gears gradually. The accelarator pedal does nothin for it. I can increase the RPMs but the automatic transmission will not shift through each gear. I jave tried to slap it into first but nothing. Second? Nothing...
How can the car accelarate with no gear shift...
How can I coast to at least 40mph? Oh, but if I stop. ... it will take at least 5 minutes before I can get up to 40mph. Its rediculius.....
Is it the differential?
Should I just buy and I stall new shift solenoids?
I have reverse and nothing else it seams... I can put it in drive and it seams to coast from 1st and gradually gathers speed like the car coasts through the gears gradually. The accelarator pedal does nothin for it. I can increase the RPMs but the automatic transmission will not shift through each gear. I jave tried to slap it into first but nothing. Second? Nothing...
How can the car accelarate with no gear shift...
How can I coast to at least 40mph? Oh, but if I stop. ... it will take at least 5 minutes before I can get up to 40mph. Its rediculius.....
Is it the differential?
Should I just buy and I stall new shift solenoids?
01-13-2015, 07:47 AM
#10
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Now that you confirm that the car will move, its not your differential.
Its not shift solenoids.
When you say "increase the RPMs" do you mean that the engine revs freely but the car barely accelerates?
Sorry, but it is time to take it to a shop, probably a trans shop, for a diagnosis. I suspect extremely low fluid pressure which will require a rebuild.
Its not shift solenoids.
When you say "increase the RPMs" do you mean that the engine revs freely but the car barely accelerates?
Sorry, but it is time to take it to a shop, probably a trans shop, for a diagnosis. I suspect extremely low fluid pressure which will require a rebuild.
01-13-2015, 07:07 PM
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Yes,it idles fine and engine responce is exceptional. Also, I didn't fill the transmission reserviour entirely until recently. So that's fine now...
I can increase the RPMs easily but the tramsmission will not respond. It just slowly increases speed with no significant gear change...like a fixed gear bike...
I'm assuming its the torque converter....
I can increase the RPMs easily but the tramsmission will not respond. It just slowly increases speed with no significant gear change...like a fixed gear bike...
I'm assuming its the torque converter....
01-14-2015, 05:43 AM
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reverse is no forward gears. I can increase the RPMs in drive and it will gradually go forward but it has no significant gear increase or reduction... it just glides or coasts forward.... took me 5 minutes to get the speedometer past 30mph...
Strange...
No rough noise or anything. .. just the engine rev and a drift status forward...
Strange
01-14-2015, 09:37 AM
#14
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Based on what you have said so far, it sounds like very low trans line pressure or a worn out forward clutch. I say this because Reverse has a mechanism (via the boost valve) to raise line pressure and does not use the forward clutch.
I think the trans will need to be rebuilt or replaced. It would be best to locate an independent local trans shop and have them diagnose your problem.
If you opt for a replacement trans, e.g. off CL, you unfortunately need to get another '94 because that is an odd-ball year.
If you really want to keep fiddling with it yourself, here are some ideas:
1. Check the line pressure yourself with an inexpensive trans line pressure gauge. Search "ATD-5550" on Amazon, it is only $34 and can be used to also measure engine oil pressure and other pressures up to 300psi.
2. If you disconnect the electrical connector to the trans, the trans will only have 3rd gear (and Reverse) but will run at max line pressure. However it is hard to reach the connector on an F-body. To disconnect it, you only need to reach it and with strong fingers simultaneously press the front and back of the connector to lift it up and off.
You might find that the car is somewhat driveable with the connector removed; at least enough to drive it to a repair shop for a definitive diagnosis.
Good luck.
I think the trans will need to be rebuilt or replaced. It would be best to locate an independent local trans shop and have them diagnose your problem.
If you opt for a replacement trans, e.g. off CL, you unfortunately need to get another '94 because that is an odd-ball year.
If you really want to keep fiddling with it yourself, here are some ideas:
1. Check the line pressure yourself with an inexpensive trans line pressure gauge. Search "ATD-5550" on Amazon, it is only $34 and can be used to also measure engine oil pressure and other pressures up to 300psi.
2. If you disconnect the electrical connector to the trans, the trans will only have 3rd gear (and Reverse) but will run at max line pressure. However it is hard to reach the connector on an F-body. To disconnect it, you only need to reach it and with strong fingers simultaneously press the front and back of the connector to lift it up and off.
You might find that the car is somewhat driveable with the connector removed; at least enough to drive it to a repair shop for a definitive diagnosis.
Good luck.
01-14-2015, 04:36 PM
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Based on what you have said so far, it sounds like very low trans line pressure or a worn out forward clutch. I say this because Reverse has a mechanism (via the boost valve) to raise line pressure and does not use the forward clutch.
I think the trans will need to be rebuilt or replaced. It would be best to locate an independent local trans shop and have them diagnose your problem.
If you opt for a replacement trans, e.g. off CL, you unfortunately need to get another '94 because that is an odd-ball year.
If you really want to keep fiddling with it yourself, here are some ideas:
1. Check the line pressure yourself with an inexpensive trans line pressure gauge. Search "ATD-5550" on Amazon, it is only $34 and can be used to also measure engine oil pressure and other pressures up to 300psi.
2. If you disconnect the electrical connector to the trans, the trans will only have 3rd gear (and Reverse) but will run at max line pressure. However it is hard to reach the connector on an F-body. To disconnect it, you only need to reach it and with strong fingers simultaneously press the front and back of the connector to lift it up and off.
You might find that the car is somewhat driveable with the connector removed; at least enough to drive it to a repair shop for a definitive diagnosis.
Good luck.
I think the trans will need to be rebuilt or replaced. It would be best to locate an independent local trans shop and have them diagnose your problem.
If you opt for a replacement trans, e.g. off CL, you unfortunately need to get another '94 because that is an odd-ball year.
If you really want to keep fiddling with it yourself, here are some ideas:
1. Check the line pressure yourself with an inexpensive trans line pressure gauge. Search "ATD-5550" on Amazon, it is only $34 and can be used to also measure engine oil pressure and other pressures up to 300psi.
2. If you disconnect the electrical connector to the trans, the trans will only have 3rd gear (and Reverse) but will run at max line pressure. However it is hard to reach the connector on an F-body. To disconnect it, you only need to reach it and with strong fingers simultaneously press the front and back of the connector to lift it up and off.
You might find that the car is somewhat driveable with the connector removed; at least enough to drive it to a repair shop for a definitive diagnosis.
Good luck.
Thanks
This will work for me....
01-15-2015, 07:10 PM
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Where is this located.
Any pictures or diagrams?
to 300psi.2. If you disconnect the electrical connector to the trans, the trans will only have 3rd gear (and Reverse) but will run at max line pressure. However it is hard to reach the connector on an F-body. To disconnect it, you only need to reach it and with strong fingers simultaneously press the front and back of the connector to lift it up and off.
Any pictures or diagrams?
to 300psi.2. If you disconnect the electrical connector to the trans, the trans will only have 3rd gear (and Reverse) but will run at max line pressure. However it is hard to reach the connector on an F-body. To disconnect it, you only need to reach it and with strong fingers simultaneously press the front and back of the connector to lift it up and off.
01-18-2015, 10:48 AM
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You could have a freewheeling stator in the torque converter which that could possibly be the problem but just make sure it isn't your differential, it doesn't seem like the transmission is the problem just try replacing the torque converter and see where that goes.
