Help Please!!! Has VATS Bypass, New BCM and won't start
01-07-2015, 08:29 AM
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Help Please!!! Has VATS Bypass, New BCM and won't start My 02 Trans Am WS6 M6 won't start. The Security light has been constant for as long as I can remember (bought the car in 2010) and never had a problem with it til now.
I've been working on installing a Viper 5204x Remote Start/Alarm in my car.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...l#post18604860
During the install I had a problem with the door locks. I got a bright idea and tried wiring past the BCM instead of before. (Problem turned out to be a bad connection on my part) Locks stopped working and at that point the car wouldn't start. And the Security light was now blinking I figured I had fried the BCM.
Just in case I tried the VATS Bypass. Still a no go.
So I bought a new BCM.
After installing it the night before last, the car started right up. However, the Security light was blinking and the locks still didn't work. Turns out I blew the courtesy fuse. It was replaced and the locks and interior lights worked again.
It ran great all day yesterday, with multiple starts.
Now this morning as I was trying to leave for gym then work, the car wouldn't start. I pulled my bypass and the resistance is still good. I tried hooking the VATS back up and nothing.
I thought the BCM learned the resistance it was getting upon initial start up. So with my VATS bypass being installed at that time, why is it having a problem? Did I get a bad BCM????
I've been working on installing a Viper 5204x Remote Start/Alarm in my car.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...l#post18604860
During the install I had a problem with the door locks. I got a bright idea and tried wiring past the BCM instead of before. (Problem turned out to be a bad connection on my part) Locks stopped working and at that point the car wouldn't start. And the Security light was now blinking I figured I had fried the BCM.
Just in case I tried the VATS Bypass. Still a no go.
So I bought a new BCM.
After installing it the night before last, the car started right up. However, the Security light was blinking and the locks still didn't work. Turns out I blew the courtesy fuse. It was replaced and the locks and interior lights worked again.
It ran great all day yesterday, with multiple starts.
Now this morning as I was trying to leave for gym then work, the car wouldn't start. I pulled my bypass and the resistance is still good. I tried hooking the VATS back up and nothing.
I thought the BCM learned the resistance it was getting upon initial start up. So with my VATS bypass being installed at that time, why is it having a problem? Did I get a bad BCM????
01-07-2015, 08:34 AM
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Oh and I don't think my ignition switch if factory. After a little research I think the original owner may have replaced it with a duralast. It has that button unlock on it.
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01-09-2015, 09:46 AM
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So I tried checking the BCM diagnostic codes and then clearing them. I took the radio fuse out, turned the key backwards to ACC and couldn't get the 2 beeps that I was suppose to. It wouldn't beep at all.
What the crap?!?!?!?!?!?!?!
What the crap?!?!?!?!?!?!?!
01-09-2015, 02:48 PM
#14
Ok, you need to slow it down and back up a little. Wiring in an alarm can cause all kinds of new issues, especially if you screw up somewhere. First off, why did you go with the XK06? That's just not needed and may even be causing your issue. Second, how hacked up is your harness now? Or have you sorted out the basic alarm install along with the BCM?
Put the old BCM back in and see how things work. If you've made sure the VATS bypass value is correct and all the wiring to the BCM for it is correct, then it can only the BCM or something else you did. If you start introducing too many variables at one time, it's harder to locate the problem, especially with wiring.
Put the old BCM back in and see how things work. If you've made sure the VATS bypass value is correct and all the wiring to the BCM for it is correct, then it can only the BCM or something else you did. If you start introducing too many variables at one time, it's harder to locate the problem, especially with wiring.
01-09-2015, 06:51 PM
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Ok, you need to slow it down and back up a little. Wiring in an alarm can cause all kinds of new issues, especially if you screw up somewhere. First off, why did you go with the XK06? That's just not needed and may even be causing your issue. Second, how hacked up is your harness now? Or have you sorted out the basic alarm install along with the BCM?
Put the old BCM back in and see how things work. If you've made sure the VATS bypass value is correct and all the wiring to the BCM for it is correct, then it can only the BCM or something else you did. If you start introducing too many variables at one time, it's harder to locate the problem, especially with wiring.
Put the old BCM back in and see how things work. If you've made sure the VATS bypass value is correct and all the wiring to the BCM for it is correct, then it can only the BCM or something else you did. If you start introducing too many variables at one time, it's harder to locate the problem, especially with wiring.
I tried putting in the old BCM last night and it's the same thing.
I'm not sure what you mean by hacked up. The starter wire is the only wire I cut and I've used male/female connectors so I could go back in forth between Viper installed and not installed. Everywhere else I've used T fittings with a male connector on the Viper wire. I don't think anything is very hacked up.
I have made a couple of other small changes to the layout. I'll update it either tonight or tomorrow morning.
Thanks for the input!!!
What do you suggest I try next. I've got another BCM en route, I'm sending the one I just installed back. I'm thinking I completely uninstall the Viper from the BCM wires and see if one of the 2 BCMs will work.
01-10-2015, 07:50 AM
#16
Sorry, I wasn't implying yours was. But there are plenty of amateur electricians out there that will make a mess of wiring. I was just trying to get a feel for how your install was, sounds like you have a decent idea of what you're doing.
How do you have the starter wire hooked up? I imagine you're bypassing the clutch switch, but are you running a relay to it from the Viper module? I was looking at some of the pinouts for the remote start and it looks like it has outputs for a starting relay.
I take it that jumper harness pictured above is your string of resistors, and the pic of the multimeter is the VATS value? And the best place to start is to check ALL your connections, wiggle them around, see if you've got a bad connection somewhere.
How do you have the starter wire hooked up? I imagine you're bypassing the clutch switch, but are you running a relay to it from the Viper module? I was looking at some of the pinouts for the remote start and it looks like it has outputs for a starting relay.
I take it that jumper harness pictured above is your string of resistors, and the pic of the multimeter is the VATS value? And the best place to start is to check ALL your connections, wiggle them around, see if you've got a bad connection somewhere.
01-10-2015, 11:30 AM
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Sorry, I wasn't implying yours was. But there are plenty of amateur electricians out there that will make a mess of wiring. I was just trying to get a feel for how your install was, sounds like you have a decent idea of what you're doing.
How do you have the starter wire hooked up? I imagine you're bypassing the clutch switch, but are you running a relay to it from the Viper module? I was looking at some of the pinouts for the remote start and it looks like it has outputs for a starting relay.
I take it that jumper harness pictured above is your string of resistors, and the pic of the multimeter is the VATS value? And the best place to start is to check ALL your connections, wiggle them around, see if you've got a bad connection somewhere.
How do you have the starter wire hooked up? I imagine you're bypassing the clutch switch, but are you running a relay to it from the Viper module? I was looking at some of the pinouts for the remote start and it looks like it has outputs for a starting relay.
I take it that jumper harness pictured above is your string of resistors, and the pic of the multimeter is the VATS value? And the best place to start is to check ALL your connections, wiggle them around, see if you've got a bad connection somewhere.
Originally I had connected the H1/6 ORANGE (-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT to the BCM C11 YEL/BLK Starter Relay Control (Domestic). I'm wondering if this didn't cause a problem.
I recently did this
- H2/9 DARK BLUE (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT
- Clutch Bypass Relay
- 86 – H2/9 DARK BLUE (-)
- 85 – 12V Constant
- 87 – PPL/WHT off Clutch Start Switch
- 30 – DRK/GRN off Clutch Start Switch
- Clutch Bypass Relay
Yes the jumper harness is my resistors.
I've disconnected everything in the remote start harness. I don't understand wire a loose wire elsewhere would result in my car not starting. I'm going to start disconnecting the Viper one connection at a time and see if it'll start.
I've updated the post with my layout. It has the layout as it was last time it was fully connect.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...more-help.html
01-10-2015, 01:08 PM
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So I disconnected all the Viper wires from the car. Other than power wire going to an spot in the fuse box, parking lights(a pain to get to the connection), and a ground to a ground post.
It still won't do anything. But now my "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light is on and my code reader is telling me there are no codes in my ECM.
WTH????
It still won't do anything. But now my "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light is on and my code reader is telling me there are no codes in my ECM.
WTH????
01-10-2015, 03:38 PM
#19
I;m gonna guess you connected something wrong and fried or messed with the memory or components in the computers. I would suggest at this point checking all your wiring then start replacing computers. THEN don't do what ever you started out to do again. NO one should touch these systems without solid knowledge of the systems and at least some good schematics.
01-10-2015, 03:59 PM
#20
What exactly do you mean by "won't do anything"? Does it crank and not fire, or you get no crank at all?
How are you wanting your remote start to work? Do you want it to be able to start with you out of the vehicle, as in not pressing down the clutch pedal? Because from what I've read in your posts, you've got it hooked up wrong.
How are you wanting your remote start to work? Do you want it to be able to start with you out of the vehicle, as in not pressing down the clutch pedal? Because from what I've read in your posts, you've got it hooked up wrong.