Blue smoke after h/c swap and synthetic switch...
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Blue smoke after h/c swap and synthetic switch...
Well.. bought the car with 27k on the clock.
Did a h/c swap at 32k. Car now has 34140.
At the time of the h/c swap, I thought that it would be good to start running Mobil 1. Well, now the car will not stop smoking.
At startup.. blue smoke and then no smoke for a while. Once the car warms up it smokes.
WOT no smoke... Get off the gas here comes the smoke and just continues to smoke at idle.
We figured that switching to the synthetic may have caused the problem so we did an engine flush, and went back to Castrol GTX 10W30.
The car is still blowing blue smoke at idle, but nothing while I'm giving it gas.
Is this a sign of bad rings or bad valve seals. Did switching to Mobil 1 after the H/C cause the valve seals not to seat properly or something.
Sorry this is so long, but I would appreciate any help.
This vid.. kinda shows the problem.. I thought that it was running rich when it was really just burning oil.
Blowing Blue Smoke
Before the H/C swap I used about 1 qt. every 2k miles..
Now 2qts within 900 miles
Did a h/c swap at 32k. Car now has 34140.
At the time of the h/c swap, I thought that it would be good to start running Mobil 1. Well, now the car will not stop smoking.
At startup.. blue smoke and then no smoke for a while. Once the car warms up it smokes.
WOT no smoke... Get off the gas here comes the smoke and just continues to smoke at idle.
We figured that switching to the synthetic may have caused the problem so we did an engine flush, and went back to Castrol GTX 10W30.
The car is still blowing blue smoke at idle, but nothing while I'm giving it gas.
Is this a sign of bad rings or bad valve seals. Did switching to Mobil 1 after the H/C cause the valve seals not to seat properly or something.
Sorry this is so long, but I would appreciate any help.
This vid.. kinda shows the problem.. I thought that it was running rich when it was really just burning oil.
Blowing Blue Smoke
Before the H/C swap I used about 1 qt. every 2k miles..
Now 2qts within 900 miles
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I did some reading earlier this week, and learned that you have to put sealer on the rocker arm bolts, on aftermarket heads. This is because the porting (in the intake ports), cuts through to the bottom of the rocker bolt hole. Normally this is closed off. Once it's cut open, vacuum can draw oil down around the rocker bolts. Seems that quite a few people have run into this with a head install.
My engine is still on a stand, so last night I pulled all the bolts that go into an intake runner, and put sealer on them.
My engine is still on a stand, so last night I pulled all the bolts that go into an intake runner, and put sealer on them.
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Originally Posted by John_D.
I did some reading earlier this week, and learned that you have to put sealer on the rocker arm bolts, on aftermarket heads. This is because the porting (in the intake ports), cuts through to the bottom of the rocker bolt hole. Normally this is closed off. Once it's cut open, vacuum can draw oil down around the rocker bolts. Seems that quite a few people have run into this with a head install.
My engine is still on a stand, so last night I pulled all the bolts that go into an intake runner, and put sealer on them.
My engine is still on a stand, so last night I pulled all the bolts that go into an intake runner, and put sealer on them.
I'm hoping that it's just valve seals. I do not want to pull the engine to do piston rings.
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My guess would be valve seals, did you replace them with the head swap? Maybe you hit one on the install of the valve springs, and that is letting some oil get through, I have seen it before. If they aren't new, and it persists, put new ones on and see what that does.
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Originally Posted by DaddySS
Thi is classic high vacuum oil usage - either the rocker arm bolts or the valve seals.
My heads came with Comp Cam 978's. Do these require a special valve seal or can I just order the OEM style that thunderracing sells for $16 a set.
Thanks
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I believe that I've found the problem...
Did another compression check.. all the numbers are the same.. 145-150PSI on all cylinders.
However.. the #5 cylinder and #8 cylinders.. the plugs have a little oil on the treads and they weren't fouled, but the insulators were darker than all the other plugs.
This Sat. I will be installing new valve stem seals, new plugs, and a new set of coated Pacesetters that I got a great deal on. I'm so happy that I may have found the problem that I don't know what to do..
Thanks guys..
Did another compression check.. all the numbers are the same.. 145-150PSI on all cylinders.
However.. the #5 cylinder and #8 cylinders.. the plugs have a little oil on the treads and they weren't fouled, but the insulators were darker than all the other plugs.
This Sat. I will be installing new valve stem seals, new plugs, and a new set of coated Pacesetters that I got a great deal on. I'm so happy that I may have found the problem that I don't know what to do..
Thanks guys..