What to look for before buying a F-Body
#1
What to look for before buying a F-Body
Friend of mine is ditching the '00 GT for a WS6 (or a SS if he finds a better deal) I told him a few things to look for, but I'm not sure if I left anything out.. If you all can, make a fresh list of things to look for before buying a F-Body.. Thanks.
#2
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I think the most important thing is just the overal condition of the car. One that has been well maintained and taken care of. Best chance is an unmolested (stock, always been stock) automatic car that looks/drives very well. Run carfax before buying.
#3
Eh. Well. There are a few of those cars which looks like its in great condition but its been ragged the hell out (I drive a Type-S RSX pretty much every day -- that's a great example )
Other than that tidbit of advice (which most of the time is true), what should he look for to ensure it hasn't been ragged out? I told him check the wheelwells for rubber and make sure the pushrods aren't bent (listen for the pinging)
Other than that tidbit of advice (which most of the time is true), what should he look for to ensure it hasn't been ragged out? I told him check the wheelwells for rubber and make sure the pushrods aren't bent (listen for the pinging)
#4
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Try to get one that wasn't modded, or at least doesn't appear to have been. I know that those of us who mod like to romp on them 'cause that's what they're for! Usually better to find one you can tear up on your own.
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Originally Posted by Jacque
Friend of mine is ditching the '00 GT for a WS6 (or a SS if he finds a better deal) I told him a few things to look for, but I'm not sure if I left anything out.. If you all can, make a fresh list of things to look for before buying a F-Body.. Thanks.
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#9
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Externally, look for tire rub, like you said. Also, check the paint, ESPECIALLY the roof. Lots of us f-body owners (especially the t-tops folks) have bubbles in the paint on the roof.
-Mike
-Mike
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Check the fron fenders where they connect underneath / in front of the doors. Many times these cars are lifted improperly which damages the attachment point of the fenders in this location. Should be pretty easy to spot..just grab it and see if can be pulled away from the car.
Check the brakes both visually and on the test drive. Visually look for scoring or heat damage to the rotors...they may indicate hard driving. When driving, feel for any vibration under braking both through the steering wheel and the brake pedal.
Check the rear differential for a leaking pinion seal where the driveshaft connects to the rear-end.
Listen for bearing or gear howl coming from the rear-end around 55 mph or so.
Check to see if the clutch slips (if manual) ... pretty common for the stock clutch and/or hydraulics to be shot.
Check the color of the brake fluid, check belt condition, check for rotting or split hoses, check the oil level and color, etc.
Check the brakes both visually and on the test drive. Visually look for scoring or heat damage to the rotors...they may indicate hard driving. When driving, feel for any vibration under braking both through the steering wheel and the brake pedal.
Check the rear differential for a leaking pinion seal where the driveshaft connects to the rear-end.
Listen for bearing or gear howl coming from the rear-end around 55 mph or so.
Check to see if the clutch slips (if manual) ... pretty common for the stock clutch and/or hydraulics to be shot.
Check the color of the brake fluid, check belt condition, check for rotting or split hoses, check the oil level and color, etc.
#11
How loud is the piston slap(do a search for more info)
Check oil, see if its low, assume its burning it, ask owner
how much be puts in.
If the car has a skip shift that still is in place he probably
didn't get on it to much.
Check oil, see if its low, assume its burning it, ask owner
how much be puts in.
If the car has a skip shift that still is in place he probably
didn't get on it to much.