Blacker

iTrader: (3)

I have read and tried different techniques to help cold starting. I have tried different values for the VE Table in the 400-1,200 range. I lowered the values in the Crank VE table as well. My problem is when the car is first started, it goes to ~1,200rpm and drops down to 400rpm and will stall. Now, if I keep the rpms at 1K for a few seconds after starting, it is fine. Also, the hot starts are perfect and I have no surging anywhere. I had the VE table adjusted down to 50%, 55% and 60% for the 400-1200 range. Still did not help. The Crank VE Table is at 75% right now. My cam is the F10 (228/228 0.575/0.575 114LSA) and I have stock heads. I also have my IFR table at 90% and the MAF Table is stock. Any suggestions?

Billiumss

iTrader: (11)

Auto or M6 car?

I have a very similair cam 230 230 .575 .575 114 lsa

I have my Main VE set to 60 65 70 and did the whole column and cold and hot start are fine.

Put your Crank VE back to stock.

Did you drill out the TB any? I went 2 drill sizes bigger.

Did you adjust your IAC tables?

Blacker

iTrader: (3)

Auto
I drilled the TB to 7/32"
I used NoGo's recommendations so far and still have to help it along for 3 seconds after start up.( http://www.ls1tuning.com/iboard/index.php?showtopic=9 )

Black02SS

iTrader: (36)

I have this same problem with my FM11. Only difference is I am a M6.

ataylors

iTrader: (2)

have you added timing at 1200rpm and down??? I added 3* up to 800 and 2* at 1200 because it pinged some when taking off on a hill with the M6

ataylors

iTrader: (2)

Also check your desired idle vs ECT

Blacker

iTrader: (3)

I haven't added timing. I have the idle set to 900rpm at start-up and once over 132*, it is set to 800rpm.

ataylors

iTrader: (2)

I have my cold idles a bit higher so it will warm up quicker then to 850 when warm. The timing really did the trick for me. I am at 224/224 114*

Another_User

If you are just trying to do a hack job to get it running the best thing to do is scale you VE 60%, 80%, 90%, add 2 degrees of timing up to (and including) 1200 rpms, and get your IAC count down to about 30ish. If you do that it should eliminate everything except WOT problems and surge at cruising speeds.

Blacker

iTrader: (3)

I set the IFR Table back to stock and used my new VE Table. The cold and hot starts are perfect and now need to fine tune some areas within the VE Table. My LTrims are ~+5 and no surging at any rpm.