TX_SS

iTrader: (4)

is it worth havin nittos555r or BFG drag radial on STOCK ls1???? would it mess up the stock rearend???

MeanWS6

I noticed a 100% improvment with traction when I went to Nitto's. Your rear end will be fine. I ran them for over 15K miles before I started to mod my TA. just be careful when driving in the rain. keep your pressure about 22lbs or so

psychocabbage

will not mess up the stock rear..

on a stock car if you have learned to drive it, sure why not?
I am looking at doing 12.9x on street tires on my bone stock car. On DRs that would make the car a 12.6ish car.. not bad for stock with tire huh? Thats my immediate goal.

Nittos - better everyday tire (everyone will say) but I dont like using them as a daily tire. I perfer to just mount them at the track.
Look for a decent 1.7 60' time.

BFG - On average you will get .1 better than the nittos. Look for a 1.6 60' time with these. If you try and drive home on these from the track and hit any wet spots you may end up the same as countless people I know of and have heard of.. Wrecked!

ET Streets - ohh yeah.. but for stock, I think they are too much tire.. Way overkill.

Get the ones you can find a deal on, mount them on some 2nd hand wheels from someone and learn to use them. Learn how much to burnout on each to heat them up..Then learn what your particular car (and clutch if M6) will let you launch at for best results. Tires are not a mount and run the best ever type of mod. Its like everything else. A learning process.

Good Luck!

Unforgiven1

iTrader: (5)

It is worth it if you're intending on going to the strip more often than not. As far as everyday driveability...that's subjective. Many folks do it, but I'd much rather have some all seasons on during regular driving and switch them out while at the track. In regards to the rear-end, that's dependent on how you launch. If you don't do anything too crazy I'm sure it will hold up. But the rear-end is a weak link in the f-body package and many folks have busted them. So I'd say that the rear-end is a concern but mainly only if you're practicing some high-rev launches.

Justin

Blue2002SS

iTrader: (13)

what makes you think your going to run a 12.6 with a stock car and nittos? have you gone to the track before? if your running those times I think you bought the car with a few things done to it already.

And sorry to burst your bubble but you are not going to hit any 1.7's stock much less 1.6's

Oh TX_SS your rear end will hold up.

blkZ28spt

What he said ^^^^^^

I love my nittos. As long as they have decent tread on them, water is perfectly fine so long as you are carefull (as you should be in the rain, with any tire)....though once they get fairly worn (one of mine has no tread in the middle) they are less trustworthy. I myself have had no problems with them. They will wear much faster than "normal" street tires due to the soft tread(100 treadware rating)....price you pay for traction. I have just over 5,000 on mine and i am not sure but they may be trashed come winter. But then again, they would have lasted me two full spring-fall seasons and that is twice as long as my 300 treadware rating BFG G-force TA's lasted when I had them out back

777

iTrader: (21)

are bfg comp ta drag radials really that bad in the rain.. i hear some people say that they aren't good and then some people say they are ok... i mean are they like uncontrolable?? im confused i was planning on maybe going 315/30/18 as a daily driver...but now i have second thoughts

psychocabbage

hmm
let me see
40 passes on the dyno (max shown in sig)
7 trips with at least 8 passes each to the track (Houston Raceway Park)

13.1@108
run right after the 13.1 had the clutch heated enough to cause it to slip 2nd which had me running 1st, 3rd and 4th and still pulled a 13.9@99.

I bought the car new just before starting my restaurant.

Any non believers come on out to my restaurant and see my car. No mods.
I am not like most who think "Wow! I got a car, need to mod it!" and unlike most I dont run out and throw on a filter. I tested filters and lids and found that those K&N and Amsoil and No filter at all lost my car HP. So I still have my AC Delco in.

By the way, what makes my car so different from a LS1 with a few mods that puts out about the same power and can pull 1.7's? Hmmm?

I think too many people forget they need to learn to drive their car on the track.

psychocabbage

ok.. how is a drag radial going to help you with just a 30 sidewall? there is no room for flex there.. 18"s? thats way too tall for drag racing IMO. 315's? You really have that much power? (I really want to know because you may have good reasons for all of this so dont think I am flaming or anything.. I ask alot of questions so there is less assumtions going on.)

psychocabbage

2002 Camaro SS A4: TCI SSF 3500, B&M 24,000 transmission cooler, FLP long tube headers, ORY pipe, 160 degree thermostat, Bauer TB, SLP fan switch, SLP 85mm MAF, Nitto 555 RII's, ASP underdrive pulley, TB bypass, BMR LCA's, 3" cutout, weight reduction.

Best 1/4 mile: 12.508 @ 111.35 1.872 60' (before the tourqe converter)


Perhaps your mods added too much weight (haha j/k).. or ya need to learn to drive it better (not j/k).. I have been helping some locals to get their driving down. Have seen one take his stock Mach 1 from a 14.0 to a 13.1. But it didnt happen over night. It happened after spending 5-6 trips to the drag strip and learning from each. That cost him about $75-$90.. any mods you have there cost just $75-$90 and get ya .9?

I come on these board to share info. I do not come to bash. I do like to have the occasional spirited discussions but its usually in jest.

If you dont think I can do it, fine.. talk amoungst yourselves and wait for my next trip to the track. (I am in the process of organizing a group trip from my pizzaria to the track)

blkZ28spt

I still don't see how you plan to run 12.6 You have many trips to track, netting a 13.1...and you think you can pull a 12.9......then drop 0.3 with nittos??? I don't think you'll be seeing 0.3 from nittos on a stock car..Any car that pulls 1.7s has more than a "few mods" or has converter/tires.

777

iTrader: (21)

its not for drag racing really...i just wanted it for traction on the street and occasional trips to the strip...plus it is the only 315/30/18 tire that i can find besides the crazy expensive michelin pilot sports...that's really the main reason

psychocabbage

what makes ya think that?

I have gotten 2.0 on street tires and know I can get a 1.9 on them..

rule of thumb for 60' times is for every .1 you take off you get almost .2 off your total et.. I am just figuring .15 for each.. but anyways.. just because others have been modded doenst mean I have to be modded at all.

I went the modded route on my LT1 before getting the LS1.. I hated working on that car so much I refuse to do mods now.

I just drive better than your average bear..

my 13.1 was done by launching at 2800 and got a 2.1 60'.. i launched at 3000 and by that time I had heated my clutch too much but got a 2.0 60' and ran a 13.9 @99 with just 3 gears.. skipping a major pull in 2nd gear.

i dont think 12.9 is at all un reasonable in a bone stock street tire car. And I never spin out of the hole. I drive 60+ miles to the track, tech in, then go right onto the strip and start running. I do run after run and dont cool down because my car doesnt seem to car. My clutch was the only thing that stopped me. I will also add that I get better times with a full tank since I am stock it helps the traction. (I fill up at a Mobil thats about 5 miles from the track)

psychocabbage

but do you have that much power really?

18" = heavier rim
315's = heavy tire

my thoughts are that you want to run the smallest tire you can get away with. I have seen 245's hook and pull 1.7's with over 400rwtq.. but it was setup correctly. Thats the key.

I will be sticking with my stock wheels just because I prefer those little advantages.

777

iTrader: (21)

yeah well ill be sticking with the stock rims for a little bit...because i plan on doing other mods first...but they are only 16's and i don't like them much...so im going with 18X10.5 y2k's

BadAndy

Generally speaking, Nittos are a better all around tire. More forgiving in the rain, more treadlife. BFGs are the better drag strip tire, but they will probably cause more wheel hop. The BFGs are also a ******* death sentence in the rain.
And yeah, they WILL mess up a stock rearend. These 10 bolts are a frigging lottery deal anyway, but the drag radials will definetly spped up their destruction. ESPEACIALLY if you were cutting 1.7 or 1.6 60 ft times, but you won't be, and neither will cabbage.
If you have a rim wide enough for a 315, then buy the frigging 315. Don't waste a huge *** rim. The larger diameter and thinner sidewall will hinder both your traction and your final drive ratio. The ONLY advantage you will have is width. Pilots suck *** in straight line acceleration. I hate to tell you, but as far as traction and pricing are concerned you really kind of fucked yourself with those rims.

glennster

iTrader: (1)

Good luck but a stock car with Drs cutting a 1.7 may be the 8th wonder.Post a slip when you get a 1.9 STOCK.Wait...........you have a lid?

Unforgiven1

iTrader: (5)

How do you teach someone to drive an automatic? Is there a certain technique of how you shove your gas pedal to the floor?

blkZ28spt

Yes, actually, there is

I just did this to show someone not but five mins ago........I slammed my pedal to the floor and the rear end wandered back and forth spinning like mad till 40mph.......and did nto accelerate any near as quickly as it could have.

Unforgiven1

iTrader: (5)

LoL, If you have to teach this to someone they don't deserve the car their in. Not meaning to be too rude but that's just funny to me.

Justin