Holeshot Holestar Drag Wheels Pics
07-01-2004, 12:15 PM
#1
Holeshot Holestar Drag Wheels Pics after 4 weeks, here they are . . .
these are by far the best looking and best quality 15" rims i have ever seen. they are a true 3 piece wheel. fronts weigh roughly 7 pounds. rears are about 10. imo bogarts dont even compare to these
i have to test fit them to see if i i need to take any more off the calipers, after that on car pics coming this weekend.
these are by far the best looking and best quality 15" rims i have ever seen. they are a true 3 piece wheel. fronts weigh roughly 7 pounds. rears are about 10. imo bogarts dont even compare to these
i have to test fit them to see if i i need to take any more off the calipers, after that on car pics coming this weekend.
07-01-2004, 01:29 PM
#7
all those drag wheels require S/S lug nuts. buy them at jegs/summit or our sponsers like Thunder racing. they look great, but i agree with tony, if they require grinding, i would go with teh welded spacer of bogart. they look so much like bogarts - are they made by them???
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07-01-2004, 01:31 PM
#8
Originally Posted by Tally TransAm
test fitting shows i need to grind the fronts a good bit, and the rears just a little more
but the big problem is i need new lugnuts. DAMNIT
didnt want to buy new lugnuts
but the big problem is i need new lugnuts. DAMNIT
didnt want to buy new lugnuts
I thought you said Bogarts didn't compare to your wheels.
My Bogarts bolted right up, not one shavings worth of grinding needed to be done!
To me, the direct fit wheel would be the more desirable wheel.
07-01-2004, 01:40 PM
#9
i just think they look better than any bogarts ive ever seen
as for the lugnuts, ive got long shanked lugnuts from the welds i have on there now, but the shanks are too long and bottom out on the rotors so i need to get .5" shank lugs
price is right around bogarts, my price was right under 1k (shipping, sales tax, everything), but i got them through DTC so retail is a little higher. i already had my calipers ground 99" of the way from the welds so i wasnt worried about that at all. if the calipers were still stock it would be a different story
i got these over bogarts for a few reasons, one i think they are the sickest looking 15" ive ever seen, compared to the bogarts ive handled, these are slightly lighter and actually seem to be a little sturdier, and one of the biggest reasons is 99.9% of people havent even heard of or seen these wheels before, and i wanted something a little different
as for the lugnuts, ive got long shanked lugnuts from the welds i have on there now, but the shanks are too long and bottom out on the rotors so i need to get .5" shank lugs
price is right around bogarts, my price was right under 1k (shipping, sales tax, everything), but i got them through DTC so retail is a little higher. i already had my calipers ground 99" of the way from the welds so i wasnt worried about that at all. if the calipers were still stock it would be a different story
i got these over bogarts for a few reasons, one i think they are the sickest looking 15" ive ever seen, compared to the bogarts ive handled, these are slightly lighter and actually seem to be a little sturdier, and one of the biggest reasons is 99.9% of people havent even heard of or seen these wheels before, and i wanted something a little different
Last edited by Tally TransAm; 07-01-2004 at 01:56 PM.
07-01-2004, 03:01 PM
#11
Very nice looking.
Did I understand you correctly when you stated that the barrels aren' t welded together and they are just bolted together? If they are only bolted and don't have the barrels welded, watch for stress cracks at the bolt hole area. High stress is placed on the shells from the load of the car as well as the pressure from the tires both resulting in a force normal to the centers.
What is the material used on the wheels...the centers as well as the shells. Different grade aluminum will retain different strength properties. Some manufctures use a more ductile material which is easily to form, which will result in an overall weaker rim....this is just a comment, obviously, I don't know what material is used since I inquired above.
They look VERY similar to our signature "SS" series rim that we can design as custom bolted. By looking at the construction, i'm surprized they will fit at all even without spacers as there is not much that can be done with caliper overhang. Since the centers are flat, there needs to be offset spacing for the calipers. I would conjuncture, you will need a very large spacer to make this wheel work on a stock caliper without large modifications which results in a structurally altered state.
I would hold on to your current lugs as if your using spacers, you don't want to put a .5 inch lug on there and move your sheering force out on the studs. Cut your current shank style lugs down to fit.
Good luck with your purchase.
Steve
Pres.
Did I understand you correctly when you stated that the barrels aren' t welded together and they are just bolted together? If they are only bolted and don't have the barrels welded, watch for stress cracks at the bolt hole area. High stress is placed on the shells from the load of the car as well as the pressure from the tires both resulting in a force normal to the centers.
What is the material used on the wheels...the centers as well as the shells. Different grade aluminum will retain different strength properties. Some manufctures use a more ductile material which is easily to form, which will result in an overall weaker rim....this is just a comment, obviously, I don't know what material is used since I inquired above.
They look VERY similar to our signature "SS" series rim that we can design as custom bolted. By looking at the construction, i'm surprized they will fit at all even without spacers as there is not much that can be done with caliper overhang. Since the centers are flat, there needs to be offset spacing for the calipers. I would conjuncture, you will need a very large spacer to make this wheel work on a stock caliper without large modifications which results in a structurally altered state.
I would hold on to your current lugs as if your using spacers, you don't want to put a .5 inch lug on there and move your sheering force out on the studs. Cut your current shank style lugs down to fit.
Good luck with your purchase.
Steve
Pres.
Last edited by steve10; 07-01-2004 at 03:23 PM.
07-01-2004, 03:30 PM
#12
the barrells are not welded, bolted and have a silicone bead on the inside. i will keep an eye out for cracking situations. i have heard nothing but good about this companies wheels since i began looking into getting them so im not overly concerned about it. as for the exact material i am not sure, you would have to contact holeshot about this.
the rears will fit fine with only a very small amount more caliper grinding than with 8" prostars. i have 8" prostars now and with a test fit of these rims they BARELY rubbed the calipers. on the fronts, with a 5/16" spacer, i need to grind some off the outer face of the caliper to make them fit.
the face of the rim is right at .5" thick. so in the rear i am going to run no spacer and .5" shank lugs. on the fronts, i am going to run a 5/16" spacer and a .75" shank lug so the lug goes all the way through the wheel and almost right to the brake rotor. i MAY run a 5/16 spacer and .75" shanks in the rear for three reasons, one, i dont want the studs sticking out of the lugs, i just dont like how it looks, two it will make it so i dont have to grind anymore, three i loved the way my prostars sat on the car, they were 15x8 with a 5.5" backspace, these are 15x8 with a 5 7/8" backspace so they will sit a little more inside the wheel well, a 5/16 or 3/8 spacer will make them sit the exact same as the prostars did.
with the faceplate only being .5" think, i have TONS of stud for the lugs to grab onto, even more with these wheels and a spacer than with the welds and no spacer.
as for cutting the lugs i have, that would be great and same me a good bit of cash, one question, what would i use to cut a steel mcgard lug, and how much of a pain would it be???
thanks
the rears will fit fine with only a very small amount more caliper grinding than with 8" prostars. i have 8" prostars now and with a test fit of these rims they BARELY rubbed the calipers. on the fronts, with a 5/16" spacer, i need to grind some off the outer face of the caliper to make them fit.
the face of the rim is right at .5" thick. so in the rear i am going to run no spacer and .5" shank lugs. on the fronts, i am going to run a 5/16" spacer and a .75" shank lug so the lug goes all the way through the wheel and almost right to the brake rotor. i MAY run a 5/16 spacer and .75" shanks in the rear for three reasons, one, i dont want the studs sticking out of the lugs, i just dont like how it looks, two it will make it so i dont have to grind anymore, three i loved the way my prostars sat on the car, they were 15x8 with a 5.5" backspace, these are 15x8 with a 5 7/8" backspace so they will sit a little more inside the wheel well, a 5/16 or 3/8 spacer will make them sit the exact same as the prostars did.
with the faceplate only being .5" think, i have TONS of stud for the lugs to grab onto, even more with these wheels and a spacer than with the welds and no spacer.
as for cutting the lugs i have, that would be great and same me a good bit of cash, one question, what would i use to cut a steel mcgard lug, and how much of a pain would it be???
thanks
07-01-2004, 04:46 PM
#13
Be very careful with the amount of face material you remove from the caliper as the brake pad needs supported from it. The worse part will be is towards the corner as this is a high stress area. There is a more then .5 inches of caliper overhang on most , I don't see how you can remove much necessary material without lowering the strength of the caliper. Be very careful. These rims are really set up for drag calipers which have negative calilper overhang.
You may have thin/older pads/calipers and/or rotors...pay attention if you get new pads, they may not fit and you may need additional grinding. Since the calipers float, they WILL create an interference issue if any parts are thicker then what you have now.
Regarding the lugs. You can use a sawsall (most folks have access to one...reason why i'm suggesting it). You can use a hand metal hacksaw but obviously, it will take a bit more time.
I would avoid using a metal cut-off tool as your going to heat the material quite a bit causing the grains boundaries to enlarge thus weakening the material. You'd go through a few cutoff wheels anyways...lol
In the far-past (we are talking ~20 years of building experience), Bogart wheels were bolted as yours, stress cracks in the discussed area were an issue and this was used on DRAG cars...street use would be place much higher stress especially if you use a radial runner and/or rear. Bogart rims are reinforce welded shells.
An issue of bolted rims (not welding the shells and using bolts to attach to the center w/bolts) is flexing of the shells causing the "silicon" beads to crack and leak over time. Another area of concern may be to look at the cross sectional width of the spokes where they meet with the shells. Stress cracking was an issue in that area.
Please don't mistake my post as i'm not putting down the companies rims, they do look like quality drag rims. They are definitly designed for drag race use only which i'm sure the company strongly suggests. Over time, fatique stress will show it's weakness's. Hopefully they last you a long time and you enjoy them.
I tell guys all the time, if you can afford it, custom designed high-end drag rims are far superior to mass produced economy rims. i.e. Bogart, high-end welds etc make a car. If appearance and function are important, spend the few $$ more and do it right the first time.
Appearance being important(which i'll assume most feel is important)...economy style rims may look good in a picture, but they don't hold a candle to the custom stuff...I'm sure that comparing the appearance of your old welds to these, you can attest to this.
If one can cope, putting the $$ into unspung weight losses pays for itself in the long run, your times will show. Weight losses are very important, the more you loose, the better off you'll be...the fast guys have learned this along time ago.
Steve
Pres.
You may have thin/older pads/calipers and/or rotors...pay attention if you get new pads, they may not fit and you may need additional grinding. Since the calipers float, they WILL create an interference issue if any parts are thicker then what you have now.
Regarding the lugs. You can use a sawsall (most folks have access to one...reason why i'm suggesting it). You can use a hand metal hacksaw but obviously, it will take a bit more time.
I would avoid using a metal cut-off tool as your going to heat the material quite a bit causing the grains boundaries to enlarge thus weakening the material. You'd go through a few cutoff wheels anyways...lol
In the far-past (we are talking ~20 years of building experience), Bogart wheels were bolted as yours, stress cracks in the discussed area were an issue and this was used on DRAG cars...street use would be place much higher stress especially if you use a radial runner and/or rear. Bogart rims are reinforce welded shells.
An issue of bolted rims (not welding the shells and using bolts to attach to the center w/bolts) is flexing of the shells causing the "silicon" beads to crack and leak over time. Another area of concern may be to look at the cross sectional width of the spokes where they meet with the shells. Stress cracking was an issue in that area.
Please don't mistake my post as i'm not putting down the companies rims, they do look like quality drag rims. They are definitly designed for drag race use only which i'm sure the company strongly suggests. Over time, fatique stress will show it's weakness's. Hopefully they last you a long time and you enjoy them.
I tell guys all the time, if you can afford it, custom designed high-end drag rims are far superior to mass produced economy rims. i.e. Bogart, high-end welds etc make a car. If appearance and function are important, spend the few $$ more and do it right the first time.
Appearance being important(which i'll assume most feel is important)...economy style rims may look good in a picture, but they don't hold a candle to the custom stuff...I'm sure that comparing the appearance of your old welds to these, you can attest to this.
If one can cope, putting the $$ into unspung weight losses pays for itself in the long run, your times will show. Weight losses are very important, the more you loose, the better off you'll be...the fast guys have learned this along time ago.
Steve
Pres.
Last edited by steve10; 07-01-2004 at 05:42 PM.
