JZ'sTA

iTrader: (23)

Anyone ever see or used this?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...909603824&rd=1

ktmrider

Hmm, I have seen them for the older SB motors but not the GenIII stuff. Good if you are running major HP, boost, or nitrous, especially on the aluminum alloys.
Not sure but looks like you need some different main bolts plus there could be issues with the windage tray, too.

jrp

iTrader: (16)

the creator actually made a thread on it here, you know what im going to say

JZ'sTA

iTrader: (23)

Yes I know what you are going to say.
But this is JZ'sTA your talking to, I tried a search and found this.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...=engine+girdle
Didn't help much.
I will try again and see if I find some different results.

jrp

iTrader: (16)

now that i think of it the thread might of been locked/moved since it was free advertising and turned into a big debate/flame thread.

JZ'sTA

iTrader: (23)

Your probally correct.
Seems like something that happens often on here and for good reason.
Told you I did my research.
HAHA
Thanks anyways.

427

iTrader: (3)

The idea behind the girdle is sound. The gen 3 C5R even showed signs of problems when you exceed 1000hp. We make a girdle system for high hp use. It requires many changes including main studs that are made by ARP for use on our girdle. Ours also spaces the pan down around .600 at the rails.
The bottom line is most people don't need them, but some people that do need them don't know it yet.
Kurt

Camaroholic

iTrader: (1)

Yes, the threads (there were 2) got moved to the Administrator's forum. Partly because of non-sponsorship, but mostly because people were ragging on Demitri for his poor English/spelling (umm, he's in America now, but ESL, ya know ).

Looks like something that some of the more extreme motors might benefit from, but for the cost of the unit itself plus the custom studs, probably not something that the majority of us need to worry about. I would worry more about oil leaks with the thing than losing my bottom end without the thing.

JZ'sTA

iTrader: (23)

Thanks for the info.

haole_boySS

iTrader: (1)

I'm almost positive that the pick of the snapped main is from ShiznittyZ28's car. He is from EFA. Not that it matters in this thread.

robertbartsch

Does that girddle have an impact on the location of the bolts that go 90 degrees into the main caps for the crankshaft?

All the other girdles that I have seen in magazines and such are constructed very differently....they are constructed so the bottoms of the main caps are tied together ...this one looks like it follows the outline of the oil pan, is installed under the caps and moves the caps away from the block by an amount equal to the thickness of the girdle....

Totally weird design....it looks like it would require differnt caps

99ssleeper

iTrader: (98)

The pics on ebay there show it on the bottom of the caps tying them together, using stock or stock replacement caps.......correct?

XLR8NSS

iTrader: (4)

Robert - Here is a better picture than the one you were looking at evidently. It is on the bottom of the mains but, does not interfere with the oil pan rails.



I think a stronger design would be like the one that Kurt mentioned in his post that they make that ties the oil pan rails and mains together.

stage274

you do not need the girdle to extend to to oil pan rails, the caps are bolted to the block (also you will not run the risk of oil leaks,due to the diffrent rate of expantion due to dissimilar metals), the girdle fits the stock oil pan and windage tray , you do need custom arp bolts, the girdle will reduce windage and dramaticlly reduce vibration so the engine will not shake it self apart also it ties in all the main caps , I am getting the patend on this , it works and works well.

stage274

oil leaks are will not be an issue it does not contact the pan rails at all and the oil pan fits just like stock, it actually helps oil drain back in the pan by distributing it nice and evenly , like a water fall, it acts like a windage tray , no issue on installation either , just a great product, and it is made out of 185000 psi tensile strength stainless steel, it will increase your block ridgitity and tie in all the mains, money back if not 200% satisfied. as far as me being americain, I am so ,so is my product ,made in the usa,I was born an raised in IL, I am an engineer, who loves ls1s, and want to push the limits of a stock aluminum block, and my spelling was bad in my web site, I just was excited to get the word out , you would be too if you designed a kick *** product,I through together the web site in 15 minutes before I posted on here in the past.they locked the thread because I gave my web site out and I am not a sponsor.

robertbartsch

The girdles I have seen are much thicker than this one,,,,, like about one inch thick!

My in itial reaction is that this girdle looks very thin and may not provide much extra reinforcement....

Any thoughts on the thickness guys?

427

iTrader: (3)

Our girdle is .750 thick at the mains and about .550 at the oilpan rails. Ours is made of aluminum, the one from 274 is SS so could be much thinner and still have great holding power.
I have one of our girdles on a stock cap that will see some boost before the end of the summer, after dyno we will disassemble and inspect mains.
Kurt

stage274

the girdle , is .300 in thick and 1.2 in thick by the rails , wich is more than enough,since it it is made out of ss, and it lays flat across every main cap, so ,and the best part is no modifications are required, for installation, just like a studded wall before you put a piece a plywood on, the wall will not be square , or as strong,but the second you nail the plywood to the wall it become very rigid and square and the wall will not shift around on you, same Idea, hey guys check out this months hot rod, gm intended to use a girdle simmlar to mine, hot rod published a a long lost ruff drawing from 1992 of a ls1 engine, with a factory girdle ,like mine , the reason it never made it to production, is they went with a thick cast oil pan, instead of a stamped steel one , and the cost factor,the reason motors fail is harmonics and vibrations, if you can minimize those, you will have a reliable and durable race engine for years to come.

silent1

iTrader: (3)

Is any machining needed to clear the crank in stroker applications?

stage274

no, it will fit up to a 4 in stroke just like in the pic ( it is a 4 inch eagle crank and eagle rods), you will need to allways check the clearence in the rod notches, if you go to a 4.125 stroke you might have to take a dremal to the notches, not a big deal, the girdle is designed to be hassle free, if some one has a build up already and it is in the car , you can drop the oil pan and just bolt it on, no special machining , just plug and play. I would always use the girle even on a stock type rebuild , beacause it will dramaticlly reduce virbration, so you can elimnate alot of false knock from a noisey engine, and you will be bolting on extra horsepower because of the windage blocking properties, of the girdle.