primarycolorman

May have a chance to pickup a 99 camaro thats been abused a bit.. he's burned up a clutch every 40k miles (now just shy of 80k) and has probably blown his rear diff (may get him to cram some 4.10's in as a condition of purchase).


Forgetting drivetrain/suspension (that'd be for a seperate forum), please check the below list and tell me what I'm leaving out that may need replacing. I have no doubt from what I know of this guy that he probably bounces it well into the red...

Things I was intending anyway: LT's, headers, a tr224 cam (will replace rods/rockers/springs) and the usual bolt on's.


Things I'm concerned about but I'm not certain if will need replacing: pistons & associated bearings, crank shaft (i'm paranoid. I've had one snap on me before)


So, have i left anything out for engine internals?

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

If he abuses his car, you shouldn't go with 4.10s (if this is a 10bolt car) as they are easier to brake than anything else. Try 3.73s (I like Richmonds...good and strong) and tell him to go with an Auborn Posi and a TA girdle. That’s about the best you can do for the stock 10 bolt.


Now for the engine....

need:

ALL bearings
forged pistons
piston rings
ALL gaskets
ALL bolts
forged rods
LS6 oil pump

should be able to reuse:

crank
block
heads


The only reason to replace the crank is if it has been damaged (bearing surfaces). Otherwise don't waste the money.

Since he is hard on the engine, go with some forged rods (Eagles go for about $500) to make sure he does not over spin it one day and scrap everything. Don't waste your time with GM main and head bolts. Only use bolts from GM if ARP does not make a replacement. I would also set the rings a little loose to give him an extra safety margin.

primarycolorman

interesting, hadn't heard anyone claim that 4.10's were easier to break before.. thanks for the input.

If it happens, I'll windup taking posession almost straight from it getting the rear fixed. I'm glad the crank doesn't need swapping. The rest sounds about like what I expected.

gnx7

iTrader: (28)

Get an Eaton vs. the Auburn... much stronger.

-Mark

Stone0fFire

no kidding, an Auburn?
using some clutch for posi?
i dunno id rather use gears,
mine was crappy when the clutch started to wear

i have auburn,
but it sucked so i went Zexel/Torsen
but i have heard the Eaton is even better.

Linear Velocity

iTrader: (1)

Well I would say it depends on your intentions for the car. If you're going to drag race it, then by all means do what CamaroGuy said.

If you're looking at street duty I think you would be fine replacing the top end for the cam (i.e springs, pushrods, lifters, rockers, retainers), get a dual timing chain, and a ported LS6 oil pump, and if you're going to rev it high some ARP rod bolts.

4.10's will be fine for the street, and are much more fun to drive than 3.73's in my opinion. New bearings, gaskets, etc, etc, will run you thousands in labor and parts, if you want to go that route it's up to you.

Grimes

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, dude, I agree w/ linear. Just do the cam and headers and run the engine till it gives. I'm willing to bet things are not as bad as you think.

primarycolorman

Not intending this to be a dragster, just meaning it to be a cruiser/street use. I'll probably wait on the pistons, see what kind of shape they are in when I do the cam swap.

So what are the odds of breaking 4.10's with under 450 rwhp?

equandt

iTrader: (2)

It's slicks and 60ft times under 1.8 that will break your 4:10's

Linear Velocity

iTrader: (1)

Not very likely at all on the street. I had strange 4.10's and had great luck with them, they were very quiet and held up to quite a lot of abuse from me.

primarycolorman

nah, this will be a daily with street tires. Groovie, I wanted the 4.10's.. just seem like they'd be more fun.

Most abusive thing I'll do to this car is try and keep up with the old man's lotus europa.

Yea, I know, I'm screwed.

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

......guess I should have reread the post.......I thought you were doing this for someone else who DOES abuse the car......my bad....


If the engine is in good shape (good oil pressure, good rings, etc...) then there is no real reason to do anymore than your valvetrain upgrade. I WOULD upgrade the rod bolts to ARPs as the pre 01 stockers were not very good (had a friend spin two bearings and crack a rod because they stretched in his 99) and go with a ported LS6 pump (pre 01s had problems at times) for added safety. I would also still say to use ARP bolts in everything else that you can replace (if a bolt is going to get pulled for any reason and there is an ARP one.....DO IT!) as they are easier to work with, much stronger, and worth the cost.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

How are you going to see what kind of shape the pistons are in when you do the cam swap? Youre not gonna pull the engine and take off the heads to swap a cam, right

hourang

iTrader: (6)

uhh what kind of lotus europa is it? year? i wouldnt be scared.

primarycolorman

its a '72 twinkie. his top end is very limited, but that thing sticks like glue on curves. I'd expect it to outhandle me but i'd suspect on a fairly balanced autocross course I should be able to match it

As for the pistons, I'm only worried because of the idiot/liars this car is coming from. There is a chance he'd run NOS. If he's done anything truely stupid it should be obvious when I pull the heads off to do the cam swap.. can visually inspect the valves and top of the pistons right?

Thanks for suggesting ARP bolts.. I'm never thrilled at reusing cheap hardware.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Thats what I mean... you dont need to pull the heads off if youre swapping a cam. Drop the radiator, Unbolt the waterpump and timing chain, pull the rockers and pushrods and the cam slides out the front of the engine. If you want to pull the heads, hell, go for it, but you might as well port them while theyre out, otherwise, whats the sense?

For some added piece of mind, do a leakdown test. If the engine has been abused that much, a leakdown test should clue you in as to wether or not you need to crack the motor open. Hell, do the test before you buy it... if the test goes well, you can continue beating the **** out of the car yourself with a clear conscience

primarycolorman

GB, good idea on the leak down. I need to check what my OBDII decoder can do as well..


Was intending to do a head swap. I know the TR224 doesn't absolutely need one, but it does seem to help some.

hourang

iTrader: (6)

yeah i was gonna say they are slow compared to our cars, but do handle nice. very light cars.

2001CamaroGuy

iTrader: (6)

yep.....just go ahead and get a set of ported heads that already have the valve springs you want. Then you can pull the stock heads, check the pistons/do your cam install, and bolt new high flow heads on. Piece of mind AND more HP.....