Gears & Axles - TA Perf Cover Leaking
07-19-2004, 09:42 AM
Installed one 2 weeks ago and I noticed a nice drip underneath the car, looking closer I can see a build-up of fluid on the bottom of the cover.
I sealed the cover using the red high-temp RTV letting it dry for 45 minutes before install (installuniversity instructions). I used a generous amount and made sure there were no areas that would allow the fluid to leak through.
So what is everyone else doing to combat the leaking issue, should I just order a GM paper gasket and re-install ?
Thanks in advance....
07-19-2004, 09:56 AM
Is it leaking aroung the gasket surface or aroung the drain plug? My SLP cover was leaking around the drain plug.
07-19-2004, 12:35 PM
i've never been able to get a leak free seal using RTV. i use a paper gasket with mine, it was $3 at pep-boys.
07-19-2004, 01:48 PM
Its leaking from the gasket surface, the drain plug appears to be dry.
Anyone else certify the paper gasket ?
07-20-2004, 11:46 AM
I had one on my 99 T/A. I also had the stud kit and had to notch the cover ever so slightly due to interference. I notched it and also used a PAPER gasket and never had a problem.
07-21-2004, 10:01 PM
mine leaked from my factory fill plug and both drain plugs.
teflon tape cured the problem. :)
07-21-2004, 10:16 PM
Checked it again tonight and it had a small drop built up on the bottom of the cover, seems the problem is small - I cleaned it up and I'll check it in a few days (car is rarely driven).
Just in case I ordered another 2 quarts of redline 75-90 and a paper gasket. If it continues to slow leak I'll just wait and change it out.
07-22-2004, 11:20 AM
The ONLY way I have found to keep two different types of metal from leaking when mated together, for example: mating an aluminum cover to a cast iron axle housing, is to use NO gasket and some stuff called "The Right Stuff" by Permatex. It comes in a cheese wiz type can. It's expensive, like 18.00 for a can. Most everyone carries it, NAPA, Auto Zone, O'Reilly's...
Make sure both gasket surfaces(cover and axle housing) are completey oil free. I use lacquer thinner to clean both surfaces after ensuring that all traces of gasket material and old sealer are removed. Make sure all the gear oil is wiped out of the housing so none will seep down on the gasket surface before you can get the cover back on.
Put the "Right Stuff" directly onto the aluminum cover only, making sure that all bolt holes are completely encircled with the sealer. I torque the cover bolts to like 25ft lbs. The load bolts get 5ft lbs after barely snugging to the bearing caps. I like to wait a few minutes and then put the lube in and drive. This sealer will actually dry while submerged under or in the fluid.
07-22-2004, 11:54 AM
Thanks dustin butts, Im going to go that route instead...
07-26-2004, 08:50 AM
Well...did you "gitter dun"?
07-26-2004, 09:12 AM
Found the 'right stuff' at the local parts place, picked it up for $11.
1/2 way done, I pulled the cover off late yesterday and inspected the high temp RTV (red) gasket and was pretty suprised that the material was all shrivelled up and easily wiped off the cover with very little effort. Anyways cleaned everything up, just waiting on the Redline fluid to arrive from Thunder so the car will sit till then.
07-26-2004, 09:23 AM
Cool...clean both gasket surfaces really well with lacquer thinner(my preference) or brake clean and use a clean rag or paper towels(my preference for the final pass). I'd go ahead and reassemble the cover and torque her up and that way everything will be really good and dry when you put the fluid in. Also, clean the threads on the adjustable preload bolts and put some "right stuff" on the threads near where they'll be in the housing after the final preload adjustment. You'll weep some fluid around those two bolts if you don't.
08-11-2004, 12:05 PM
Well...how did it turn out? I sure hope you're done by now..heehehee
08-11-2004, 12:10 PM
oh yeah, all done. No leaks......... so far
08-11-2004, 06:21 PM
Excellent...She'll be dry as a bone for years now. When you change the fluid just remove the top cover hole plug and the small bottom plug and then when it's drained, remove the BIG side plug. Put the little lower rear plug back in and fill the diff from the upper back hole til it runs out the side hole, then cap her up. You probably know all that anyway...