SsZERO

I was originally going to have my car tuned on a dyno, but after learning about the new HPTuner software, I began to wonder if I could do it myself. Would I be able to properly tune my engine with HPTuner and just driving my car on the street, or do I need a dyno tune for best performance? How hard is it to properly tune a cammed LS1 using HPTuner and no dyno?

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

It's not so much the dyno, but the wide band O2 you use while on the dyno.

Another_User

Heck with the dyno...my next big mod is probably going to be a wideband O2 system.

foff667

iTrader: (2)

foff667

iTrader: (2)

http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/zt2/zt2.htm might be of interest.

Another_User

That is really sweet...hmmm...

foff667

iTrader: (2)

thats lookin like its the one im gonna go with and will work with or without a laptop just for a few bucks more...i just cant wait till hp tuners integrates them so i can see what needs to be done/purchased.

Another_User

Yeah...that will be nice. Intergated wide-band. And they better add noise-floor adjustment for the knock sensors. They should have done that last update...

moehorsepower

iTrader: (3)

Tho other advantage of a Dyno Tune is not only the Air/Fuel,but you will know exactly where your powerband is and where to shift.I tune a lot of cars and the customers were shifting at 6600 RPM when the power was going down at 6000.It is useless to spin the engine if you are not makeing power..

foff667

iTrader: (2)

worst statement of the year bar none...how are you going to be able to setup shift points on the dyno genius? Its generally a trial and error thing for most good tuners...usually they will have the customer take the car to the track where you'll usually be going wot and make some pulls while datalogging to see where its shifting, then adjust from there...you can only get a ballpark figure of where it WILL be shifting at on the dyno because generally your only in 3rd or 4th gear when you dyno depending on tranny A4/M6. In addition your statement where your customers were shifting at 6600 even after power, i assume your talking hp, was going down at 6000 is kinda screwed up since your shift points generally are made using tq since in reality hp is a fictional # made possible by your actual tq #...generally speaking you do want to shift a bit past your peak hp...my cam makes peak hp at 6300 yet according to most calcs out there i should shift at 7k...the only reason im not is because I fear loosing my motor, but thats where i should shift to get the best shift extension and keep myself in my powerband.

lata
Bill

moehorsepower

iTrader: (3)

Well you would expect an answer like that from someone.How do you know where you make peak power from your butt-o-meter.You are right you want to shift about 200 RPM past your peak power,Torque is what starts you off then the Horsepower pushes you the rest of the way..If you say your peak is 6300 then shifting at 7000 will accomplish NOTHING.And yes my customers do go to the track and did exactly what I said.They shifted 200 past the peak power and tried shifting at 200 RPM incriments and gained NOTHING.From shifting at 6200 to 7000 the trap speed and ET were the same.Guess you don't know how a Dyno works.Pulls are done at WOT.How many cars have you tuned??? or rather how many magazines are you reading...Trial and Error for Good Tuners ??????Worst Reply of the year bar none................

slow

iTrader: (7)

So true, so true.

Ryan