Dave Carney

Now that I have your attention.

Ran hoosier slicks (26x15x9)for the first time today and after 6 passes the tires had rotated on the wheels a half inch, rendering the new balance useless. While I've owned a pair of screwed rims, I've not done it myself. Couple of questions, first do you just drill into the wheel only and then let the screw self feed into the tire bead? Or do you mark a drill bit with a piece of tape so you don't go to far but do drill into the tire?? How easy is it to mess up? I really don't want to have to get these tubed cause I went to far or whatever. TIA

Tom the roofer

iTrader: (9)

Drill the rim only. I drilled 8 holes on each side of the wheel evenly spaced. Drill the hole, clean it up on the inside of the rim with a fine file, drill again and then clean it again with a fine file. BTW take the tire off first lol. The rim screw package has the size of drill bit required. I forget, it's been awhile since I did it.

After this is completed, mount the tires and install the rim screws. Get some extra rim screws because when you take them out to change tires sometimes a few break off. No biggie they come right out but it's nice to have the extra ones on hand.
Good Luck
tom

Dave Carney

Thanks! Crap, I had no idea you had to take the tires off first. Good thing I asked! $48 to dismount, remount, rebalance, maybe I should forget it. Hmmmmm......

gator's 99TA

iTrader: (2)

48 bucks in the way to not hook up well at the track? no way dave! with the mods you have in that beast (dare i say race-ish) car, go and do it right the first time! good luck. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Dave Carney

Well, it's not causing me not to hook, I mean we are talking about .08" of rotation per per run. The only downside I see to not doing it is that the balance is messed up (I suspect a balanced slick isn't very balanced after you run it a time or two anyway) and slight chance of damage to a bead over the long haul? (actually given that they are both smooth surfaces that's pretty remote).

Anybody rim screwed with the tire mounted? I just hate to have the tires dismounted again, I don't know if you have taken a look at your average tire buster lately but you feel lucky to leave with a rim that isn't bent....

PS: It's too late to "do it right the first time", the tires are already mounted! I read at least a hundred posts of guys stating they don't need to be screwed so with my wimpish h.p. level, I thought I'd be plenty safe.

<small>[ October 06, 2002, 10:30 AM: Message edited by: Dave Carney ]</small>

Dave Carney

Hey, check this out, I only ran them down to 14 psi, was cutting only 1.80 -1.83 (max my car will do really) and still turned the wheels in the tires, albeit not very much.

I guess I'll break new ground (again <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> ) and do a screw job with the tires mounted. If I step the hole size a couple times, the burr on the back should be negligible.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Rim screws appear to only ***** the tire. I was looking at that. I am running a set of Hoosier slicks that used to be screwed but I don't run them with my non-screwed rims... No problems.

You pretty much need rim screws when you run the slicks at low tire pressure.

I run them down to 14 and no more. Low psi and the car tracks funny, brakes funny, and there is too much drag on the top end too.

I'm cutting 1.49-15.3's too.