View Full Version : M6 to A4 and A4 to M6 Conversion info requested


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DERTY
08-03-2004, 11:39 PM
We have been asked to provide a guide to doing a TH400/350 and a glide conversion for our cars. We also have been asked by a few members on how to do a M6 to A4 and A4 to M6 conversion. I have not personally done one, but I have a general idea on how to accomplish this. Can someone provide any specific details on this conversion, either way. For instance, PCM programming is required. A new wiring harness may be required for the different connectors, or at least rewiring it for the electrically inclined, etc.

Any information you guys could provide would be very useful!

DanZ28
08-04-2004, 02:10 AM
Well here is a pretty good write up someone already did for 94-97 LT1's, but most of the info applies to the LS1/T56 as well, thought I would start out with that..

http://www.afrashteh.com/tranny_pics/T56.htm

Dan

SilverGhost
08-05-2004, 09:54 AM
I can provide info on going from T56 to TH400 as I did that last year for a season before going back to M6.

what all do you need me to do? I don't want to just starting going off pointlessly, what are you looking for?

02WS6Bird
08-05-2004, 11:27 AM
give a whole right up....what materials you needed...like parts....what type of wiring...anything needed to be reaced PCM tuning wiring...etc. and also how you did it...as detailed as possible...but i would say try to keep it easily understandable.

just all the info you can post on the subject will be greatly appreciated by just about everyone looking into this

DERTY
08-05-2004, 04:40 PM
I really don't need much if anything on the M6 to TH400. I need info for a M6 to 4L60E/4L80E and vice versa.

LSmokin1
08-10-2004, 12:44 AM
I really don't need much if anything on the M6 to TH400. I need info for a M6 to 4L60E/4L80E and vice versa.

Yah what he said, im currently in that same situation, as im trying to convert my m6 to a a4 and it would alot of help to have a nmice write of what i need and what goes were for the wiring, and computer stuff.

02Z28
08-12-2004, 11:06 AM
I'm thinking about converting my car to an automatic, but I don't know what one A4 or a TH350/ 400 if you guys have any write ups that would be great only thing I'm worried about is the computer stuff and what I would have to do with all the wiring.

B_Pay
08-12-2004, 07:50 PM
We have been asked to provide a guide to doing a TH400/350 and a glide conversion for our cars. We also have been asked by a few members on how to do a M6 to A4 and A4 to M6 conversion. I have not personally done one, but I have a general idea on how to accomplish this. Can someone provide any specific details on this conversion, either way. For instance, PCM programming is required. A new wiring harness may be required for the different connectors, or at least rewiring it for the electrically inclined, etc.

Any information you guys could provide would be very useful!

I had a shop complete an A4 to M6 swap on my car. Here is a list of the parts needed.

shifter
shifter knob
transmission
bellhousing
transmount
pilot bearing
tranny crossmember
clutch
flywheel
hydraulics
pedal assembly
shift plate
flash pcm

Parts total ~ $4000
Labor ~ $900

I no longer have a need for the Sy3500 TC...PM me if you're interested.

dragonZ28
08-16-2004, 06:49 PM
OK. Here is a parts list needed for swapping out a 4L60E for a T56 in an LS1 Fbody:

master + slave cylinders (prefer 01 up) (also, master cylinder u-bolt and nuts)
new pedal assembly with clips for clutch rod and brake rod
new console tray with shift boot, and lower shift boot
pilot bearing, bellhousing, T56, crossmember, T56 torque arm mount and bolts, shifter
pressure plate, flywheel, clutch, and all related bolts and clutch tool
You will need to have your PCM flashed to a 6spd PCM, but you do not need a new PCM

THE SAME DRIVESHAFT CAN BE USED

REWIRING instructions: (disconnect battery)

connect the orange w/ black stripe and the black wires directly together for the hatch release to work.

connect the purple w/ white stripe and the dark green to the clutch switch on the manual pedal assembly so the clutch pedal needs to be depressed before the car will start. Polarization does matter here. I forget which wire goes to each connector, but trial and error will solve this in 2 seconds. (do it right, use solder and heat shrink tubing).

connect light green and brown into the reverse switch located on the passenger side of the T56 for the reverse lights to work. You can buy the pigtail, or engineer a way to get the wires to hold and be protected. I put the wires in and pinched them into place. The pigtail will run about $50 of unneccesary spending. Polarization does not matter. (again, use solder and heat shrink when you add wire to these).

Also, the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) will need to be cut, and elongated by soldering on about 6 inches of extra wire to each wire going into the connector. This VSS will plug directly into the VSS port on the drivers side of the T56 by the shifter.

WATCH THE FOLLOWING FUSES: starter, gauges, Turn/BU lights.

Troublesome parts:

The hardest part is mounting the master cylinder. Pulling the auto is no big deal. You will need a long extension or two, and a swivel joint to get this thing out though.

The steering column will need to come out, but it is pretty simple. 6 bolts hold it in. 1 is under the hood at the joint in the column, 3 are on the firewall behind the pedals, and two are holding it to the underside of the dash. Afetr these are removed and all electrical connectors are unplugged, wiggle it out of there. It should be free of any connections at this point, except the safety device on the top of the column. Follow the device that hooked to your auto shifter up to your column. Take this off. I believe it has 2 screws holding it in place. This locks the ignition until the car is in park. Since you no longer have "park", this thing needs to go.

Everything else can be found in the LT1 instructions above. They are almost exactly the same, except the wiring instructions. If you have any questions, send me a PM here, or our local message board www.kyhorsepower.com if I haven't responded in a timely manner. (sorry MIGHTYMOUSE :) )

This whole conversion costed me only $2300. This can be done in a garage with jackstands and intelligence. Don't be stupid and attempt heavy lifting or dropping without help by your side.

Scalpel
08-16-2004, 07:53 PM
I'm glad you posted your info, Matt. That info will help out so many people.

Payne
08-16-2004, 07:54 PM
Dragon, thanks for the info man!

Now, if I have my ls1/4l60 on the ground how many hours would you say it would take to get it all done?

-Jason

dragonZ28
08-17-2004, 02:08 PM
Dragon, thanks for the info man!

Now, if I have my ls1/4l60 on the ground how many hours would you say it would take to get it all done?

-Jason
I could do it all over again in probably 7-10 hours. You will get nowhere near this time on your first swap. Plan for a solid 15 hour completion time. The wiring gave me a headache with all the damn fuses blowing when testing circuits. Just watch the above fuses, and do the exact wiring noted by me above and you should be fine.

Also, when you cut the hole for your master cylinder use at least a 1 5/8" hole saw. A 2" hole saw will probably be best and make this install go much easier. You'll have to install the manual pedal assembly to know exactly where to drill your two holes for your u-bolt and hole for the master to come through. I made the mistake of using a 1 1/2" hole saw, and losing the ability to cut it wider because my pivot point was drilled out. PM me with any questions and I'll be glad to help.

Payne
08-17-2004, 02:11 PM
I already have a wilwood master in my RX7 :)

Thanks for the info!

dragonZ28
08-17-2004, 02:13 PM
I'm glad you posted your info, Matt. That info will help out so many people.
No problem G. I'm just glad to be able to help those needing this info like I did. Big thanks to Gordon at PPC (M3EATR) for his info on my swap.

BADSZ28
08-18-2004, 12:01 PM
I can provide info on going from T56 to TH400 as I did that last year for a season before going back to M6.

what all do you need me to do? I don't want to just starting going off pointlessly, what are you looking for?

I would like to know all that is necessary to do this (M6-A3). I have done some research but have heard a number of different ways. I am trying to keep it cheep. Combining what I have heard from several guys will get me the best results. Most responses I have read were "I think this" or "I heard that". If I can hear from a guy who actually did it, that would be appreciated. I would also like to know the differences in the 350 and 400 (other than weight).
Thanks.

Payne
08-18-2004, 12:14 PM
a 400 is longer and weighs more, but will handle more power (bigger internals)

If you do have a little bit of money, a 200-R4 is a good way to go (Its a 350 with an OD gear) to keep the rpms down at highway speeds.

Strini SS
08-18-2004, 01:34 PM
OK. Here is a parts list needed for swapping out a 4L60E for a T56 in an LS1 Fbody:

master + slave cylinders (prefer 01 up) (also, master cylinder u-bolt and nuts)
new pedal assembly with clips for clutch rod and brake rod
new console tray with shift boot, and lower shift boot
pilot bearing, bellhousing, T56, crossmember, T56 torque arm mount and bolts, shifter
pressure plate, flywheel, clutch, and all related bolts and clutch tool
You will need to have your PCM flashed to a 6spd PCM, but you do not need a new PCM

THE SAME DRIVESHAFT CAN BE USED

REWIRING instructions: (disconnect battery)

connect the orange w/ black stripe and the black wires together for hatch release

connect the purple w/ white stripe and the dark green to the clutch switch so the clutch pedal needs to be depressed before the car will start

connect light green and brown into the reverse switch located on the passenger side of the T56 for the reverse lights to work. You can buy the pigtail, or engineer a way to get the wires to hold and be protected. I put the wires in and pinched them into place. The pigtail will run about $50 of unneccesary spending

WATCH THE FOLLOWING FUSES: starter, gauges, Turn/BU lights.

Troublesome parts:

The hardest part is mounting the master cylinder. Pulling the auto is no big deal. You will need a long extension or two, and a swivel joint to get this thing out though.

The steering column will need to come out, but it is pretty simple. 6 bolts hold it in. 1 is under the hood at the joint in the column, 3 are on the firewall behind the pedals, and two are holding it to the underside of the dash. Afetr these are removed and all electrical connectors are unplugged, wiggle it out of there. It should be free of any connections at this point, except the safety device on the top of the column. Follow the device that hooked to your auto shifter up to your column. Take this off. I believe it has 2 screws holding it in place. This locks the ignition until the car is in park. Since you no longer have "park", this thing needs to go.

Everything else can be found in the LT1 instructions above. They are almost exactly the same, except the wiring instructions. If you have any questions, send me a PM.

This whole conversion costed me only $2300. This can be done in a garage with jackstands and intelligence. Don't be stupid and attempt heavy lifting or dropping without help by your side.

dragonZ28 Thanx for the info, so I don't need a diffrent(M6) wiring harness to swap over to a M6? This is my third transmission swap- 4L60e to TH350 and now to a M6 :D

dragonZ28
08-18-2004, 01:58 PM
dragonZ28 Thanx for the info, so I don't need a diffrent(M6) wiring harness to swap over to a M6? This is my third transmission swap- 4L60e to TH350 and now to a M6 :D

No new wiring harness is needed. Your auto's harness will work just fine. If you want to use the CAGS module (why????) and reverse lockout solenoid, you can just tap the proper pins in the PCM. I am not running either of these. Just plug the holes up, and you'll be good to go. :judge:

Camaroholic
09-10-2004, 08:34 PM
To help a little with the wiring, here are some circuit diagrams from the 2002 Factory Manual. :) These include the starter circuit, the VSS/Cruise Control/Reverse, and the reverse lamps.

Hopefully this adds to the mix. :)

Full-Force
09-21-2004, 10:06 PM
I had a shop complete an A4 to M6 swap on my car. Here is a list of the parts needed.

shifter
shifter knob
transmission
bellhousing
transmount
pilot bearing
tranny crossmember
clutch
flywheel
hydraulics
pedal assembly
shift plate
flash pcm

Parts total ~ $4000
Labor ~ $900

I no longer have a need for the Sy3500 TC...PM me if you're interested.
thats crazy ... i dint pay too much more than that for my whole damn car!

i would just buy an M6 car before i spend 5 grand on a convo

Stryker
09-30-2004, 09:53 AM
so ive heard something about the t56 being stronger in the lt1's...can they be used on an ls1?

what year t56 is the best.. what changes were made in them through the years???

im about to do a conversion when ever i find someone willing to trade or when i eventually part it all up...

TWS
09-30-2004, 11:04 AM
I need info for a M6 to 4L60E/4L80E and vice versa.


Exactly what I would be interested in seeing. Debating on selling my '99 Z28 M6 to get an A4 car to bracket race, but I love my '99 and would rather just change the tranny. :nod:

Stryker
09-30-2004, 01:45 PM
well if your lookin for someone to do the swap with im the perfect candidate... pm me if u wanna talk about it..

therabidlama
10-01-2004, 12:50 PM
Ok, i've got a question for you guys. I completed the A4 to M6 swap about 2 weeks ago and everything went great. Everything except the reverse lockout works like a charm. My question is, what wires do i splice into, and where are they located. I'm assuming there in the big cluster that plugs into the passanger side of the automatic transmission. Does anyone know for sure?

dragonZ28
10-05-2004, 03:36 PM
Ok, i've got a question for you guys. I completed the A4 to M6 swap about 2 weeks ago and everything went great. Everything except the reverse lockout works like a charm. My question is, what wires do i splice into, and where are they located. I'm assuming there in the big cluster that plugs into the passanger side of the automatic transmission. Does anyone know for sure?
I beleive you will have to tap into two pins on the PCM. That cluster may be used to rewire the cruise control. I have no reverse lockout solenoid, and my T56 works great. It goes into reverse easily and without problem. Just plug the hole up, and call it a day.

C_B64
10-06-2004, 03:46 PM
I'm glad you all made this thread, because Im going to be doing a A-4 to M-6 swap around the first of the year, just gotta start getting the stuff, lol

dragonZ28
10-06-2004, 08:01 PM
I'm glad you all made this thread, because Im going to be doing a A-4 to M-6 swap around the first of the year, just gotta start getting the stuff, lol
Foshizzle Brian.

jeeves744
10-11-2004, 06:17 PM
does anyone have a list of the nuts and bolts needed for the A4 to M6 swap? I have my t-56 tranny and everything, but i didnt get any bolts from the previous owner. Or am i able to use a lot of the bolts used by the A4?

and this is for a 2000 TA

therabidlama
10-12-2004, 01:00 PM
You will need Flywheel bolts(5 or 6), clutch bolts, and Tranny-to-bellhousing bolts(8). You can reuse the bellhousing bolts for your sixspeed bellhousing. Don't buy the bolts from gm. They will rip you a new one. I ended up going to a local building supply store and getting the correct bolts for everything but the clutch. They were the right strength, length, and pinch. It will greatly help if you can grab a stock bolt from someone when looking for yours.

Stryker
10-12-2004, 02:54 PM
so what is the reason u cant use a lt1 t56 in an ls1 car??

edit: search button does wonders dont it..... reason why this doesnt work is input shaft length and clutch slave cyl designs are not interchangeable :)

dragonZ28
10-14-2004, 10:36 PM
You will need Flywheel bolts(5 or 6), clutch bolts, and Tranny-to-bellhousing bolts(8). You can reuse the bellhousing bolts for your sixspeed bellhousing. Don't buy the bolts from gm. They will rip you a new one. I ended up going to a local building supply store and getting the correct bolts for everything but the clutch. They were the right strength, length, and pinch. It will greatly help if you can grab a stock bolt from someone when looking for yours.

WTF is a clutch bolt? Get the ARP flywheel bolts while you have to install some anyway. Make it as bulletproof as possible.

therabidlama
10-15-2004, 12:02 PM
WTF is a clutch bolt?

The bolts to hold the pressure plate to the flywheel.

dragonZ28
10-16-2004, 01:12 AM
The bolts to hold the pressure plate to the flywheel.
Those are pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts. Didn't mean to sound like a smart ass.

:chug:

sevanseriesta
10-16-2004, 07:10 PM
I just finished an Auto to M6 swap tonight. I did the whole thing myself in my gargage. The differnce between what I did and what dragon Z was talking about is that I bought a m6 wiring harness.

Those thinking about doing an M6 swap WARNING....WARNING ......WARNING. DO NOT BUY A 99+ YEAR WAIRING HARNESS FOR A 98 AND VISE VERSA. YOU WILL FRY YOUR PCM. I found out the hard way. 99+years are all the same 98 is the only year that was different. Everything is very simple. Hardest part is cutting hole for the shifter and the master cylinder, otherwise very simple.

Wiring-----------If you just connect the Dark Green wire with the purple wire with the stripe you will not have to have the cluch depressed to start the car. No big deal (In My Own Opinion.

02WS6Bird
10-16-2004, 10:15 PM
why does the clutch have to be depressed in order to start the car?...wouldnt it start up if its in Neutral (in between gears) already?

i have a remote start on my car thats why i ask

dragonZ28
10-17-2004, 01:25 AM
why does the clutch have to be depressed in order to start the car?...wouldnt it start up if its in Neutral (in between gears) already?

i have a remote start on my car thats why i ask
On the clutch pedal, there is a clutch safety switch. This switch has to close a connection for the car to start, therefore the clutch pedal has to be down - it is meant for a safety mechanism.

02WS6Bird
10-17-2004, 08:43 AM
so i will haveta DITCH the remote start?...or do they do something in order for it to work?...any1 know?

DanZ28
10-17-2004, 01:46 PM
You can do like described above by connecting the two wire together. Make darn sure you don't accidently leave it in gear though or your car will drive off on it's own or through your house with using that remote starter...

Dan

sevanseriesta
10-17-2004, 07:25 PM
yes very true make sure that car is in gear if there are any of you that want info or some pictures of anything pm and let me know I will try to help you out as much as I can.........There was no one to help me so I am here to help others.

blue2000ss
10-26-2004, 07:58 PM
:cool: OK. Here is a parts list needed for swapping out a 4L60E for a T56 in an LS1 Fbody:

master + slave cylinders (prefer 01 up) (also, master cylinder u-bolt and nuts)
new pedal assembly with clips for clutch rod and brake rod
new console tray with shift boot, and lower shift boot
pilot bearing, bellhousing, T56, crossmember, T56 torque arm mount and bolts, shifter
pressure plate, flywheel, clutch, and all related bolts and clutch tool
You will need to have your PCM flashed to a 6spd PCM, but you do not need a new PCM

THE SAME DRIVESHAFT CAN BE USED

REWIRING instructions: (disconnect battery)

connect the orange w/ black stripe and the black wires directly together for the hatch release to work.

connect the purple w/ white stripe and the dark green to the clutch switch on the manual pedal assembly so the clutch pedal needs to be depressed before the car will start. Polarization does matter here. I forget which wire goes to each connector, but trial and error will solve this in 2 seconds. (do it right, use solder and heat shrink tubing).

connect light green and brown into the reverse switch located on the passenger side of the T56 for the reverse lights to work. You can buy the pigtail, or engineer a way to get the wires to hold and be protected. I put the wires in and pinched them into place. The pigtail will run about $50 of unneccesary spending. Polarization does not matter. (again, use solder and heat shrink when you add wire to these).

Also, the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) will need to be cut, and elongated by soldering on about 6 inches of extra wire to each wire going into the connector. This VSS will plug directly into the VSS port on the drivers side of the T56 by the shifter.

WATCH THE FOLLOWING FUSES: starter, gauges, Turn/BU lights.

Troublesome parts:

The hardest part is mounting the master cylinder. Pulling the auto is no big deal. You will need a long extension or two, and a swivel joint to get this thing out though.

The steering column will need to come out, but it is pretty simple. 6 bolts hold it in. 1 is under the hood at the joint in the column, 3 are on the firewall behind the pedals, and two are holding it to the underside of the dash. Afetr these are removed and all electrical connectors are unplugged, wiggle it out of there. It should be free of any connections at this point, except the safety device on the top of the column. Follow the device that hooked to your auto shifter up to your column. Take this off. I believe it has 2 screws holding it in place. This locks the ignition until the car is in park. Since you no longer have "park", this thing needs to go.

Everything else can be found in the LT1 instructions above. They are almost exactly the same, except the wiring instructions. If you have any questions, send me a PM.

This whole conversion costed me only $2300. This can be done in a garage with jackstands and intelligence. Don't be stupid and attempt heavy lifting or dropping without help by your side.

Orange Crush 408
10-26-2004, 11:06 PM
What about a m6 to a3 or 200-r4 swap? Thinking of doing this, I want something more consistent.Does anyone want to swap trannies? I would like to get something streetable as this car will see some regular driving too. But I would also like to leave the line wheels up when racing.

ssorange
10-29-2004, 02:25 PM
what about emissons?
Is it legal to do the swap?
I'm in CA so we have a bi-anual inspection and I dont want to do the work and find out it wont pass smog test!

Thanks

93TAWicked1
12-22-2004, 01:16 AM
Has anyone gotten the reverse lockout working. I did a A4 to T56 swap in my 93 no problems and a friends 97 pretty easy really. TAKE the column out and loosen the brake booster up so you can swing it out of the way, saves time and skin.

Anyhoo thinking of doing the swap in the 98 but its the wifes daily driver would like to have a working reverse lockout. If the A4 goes bad I'll do it anyways and just disable the reverse lockout completely. In the 93 it was there but just force it into reverse a few times and it goes.....

Bobby

93TAWicked1
12-22-2004, 01:18 AM
BTW I may get flamed for this but if your going to an auto from a 6spd I'd do the T350 or T400, I went through a bunch of "race built" A4's in my 93 and will not go with it again for a DD its fine but once you start modding....

Its funny cause I can go into a tranny shop and tell you what they will say before they say it. THEY ALL are the best they ALL invented these parts and mods first etc. I don't like them, could have bought a new car with all the tranny\verter setups I had....

11 Bravo
01-03-2005, 01:09 PM
FYI, the pigtail connector you need to wire up the reverse lights on a A4 to M6 swap is part # 12126452. Just got one at the dealership for $29.

Phoenix H.O.
01-10-2005, 04:26 PM
most of these posts are about a4 to m6 but what about m6 to 4l60e?

Stryker
01-12-2005, 09:46 AM
The steering column will need to come out, but it is pretty simple. 6 bolts hold it in. 1 is under the hood at the joint in the column, 3 are on the firewall behind the pedals, and two are holding it to the underside of the dash. Afetr these are removed and all electrical connectors are unplugged, wiggle it out of there. It should be free of any connections at this point, except the safety device on the top of the column. Follow the device that hooked to your auto shifter up to your column. Take this off. I believe it has 2 screws holding it in place. This locks the ignition until the car is in park. Since you no longer have "park", this thing needs to go.

fyi the steering column doesnt need to come out.. im guessing your taking it out to install the pedal assembly but you dont actually need to take it out. you can install the pedal assembly simply by pulling the clip off the gas pedal and taking it off for a sec then the whole assembly will slide in with a minute or so of clearing away the wires and turning the assembly clockwise around the steering shaft.. try it out. youll save yourself 10-20 minutes of unneeded remevals :) also the master cylinder isnt a hard install either. i did both the pedals and the master cyl. in under an hour and this is before i have switched trannies or anything else. the tranny will be changed this weekend and ill try to get some good pics to do a real write up on all this :drive:

dragonZ28
01-14-2005, 12:13 PM
fyi the steering column doesnt need to come out.. im guessing your taking it out to install the pedal assembly but you dont actually need to take it out. you can install the pedal assembly simply by pulling the clip off the gas pedal and taking it off for a sec then the whole assembly will slide in with a minute or so of clearing away the wires and turning the assembly clockwise around the steering shaft.. try it out. youll save yourself 10-20 minutes of unneeded remevals :) also the master cylinder isnt a hard install either. i did both the pedals and the master cyl. in under an hour and this is before i have switched trannies or anything else. the tranny will be changed this weekend and ill try to get some good pics to do a real write up on all this :drive:
You will save much aggrivation by pulling the column instead of manuvering around it. You have to drill a hole in the firewall, and take the ignition lock off, and do the pedal thing. You will spend more time by not pulling the column out. The steering column can be pulled in about 2 minutes, and it saves a whole bunch of crap. It's kind of like saying that one should use jackstands when they have access to a lift. Get some pics up though, as they will help out greatly.

Stryker
01-14-2005, 02:57 PM
i guess either way you can do it but if its possible id do it without taking off things its just another way to run into something breaking or being a biatch to put back in.. but like i said it took me maybe 15 minutes to swap pedals and another half hour to 45 minutes to get the master cyl drilled and installed.. but hey whatever floats your boat. :) my clutch came in today so im gonna get everything installed tonight hopefully.. ill keep ya posted....

dragonZ28
01-14-2005, 03:18 PM
i guess either way you can do it but if its possible id do it without taking off things its just another way to run into something breaking or being a biatch to put back in.. but like i said it took me maybe 15 minutes to swap pedals and another half hour to 45 minutes to get the master cyl drilled and installed.. but hey whatever floats your boat. :) my clutch came in today so im gonna get everything installed tonight hopefully.. ill keep ya posted....
I agree, do whatever you see fit. They both will work I guess. One pic that would be awesome is the drilled hole for the master. Could you post one of those up so people know how to use the pedal assembly as a template?

BTW, are you going to do the drill mod? If you haven't already done it, you should while it's all out. It has major benefits.

Stryker
01-14-2005, 03:34 PM
yea ill get somethin worked up.. i can always mspaint chop on it to show what needs done :jest:

93TAWicked1
01-14-2005, 05:12 PM
Man I've done THREE of these and it is much easier to do with:

1. Talking the steering column out
2. Using locking nuts and bolts with the MC rather than the U bolt
3. Unbolting the brake booster and pushing it out of the way.

I've done it without doing these things and yes it can be done but the time you spend doing this is 1 fifth it takes working AROUND these things. If you can't take a steering column in and out then you shouldn't be doing the swap :)

So has anyone figured out the reverse lockout selinoid???

Bobby

Stryker
01-17-2005, 10:28 PM
ok i take back the unhooking the steering column.. i took it out to finish up the wiring and removing the ignition lock.

i have ran into some wiring problems though... i have hooked up the vss only, but the rest of the wiring i need clarification on. you said :

"connect the orange w/ black stripe and the black wires directly together for the hatch release to work.

connect the purple w/ white stripe and the dark green to the clutch switch on the manual pedal assembly so the clutch pedal needs to be depressed before the car will start. Polarization does matter here. I forget which wire goes to each connector, but trial and error will solve this in 2 seconds. (do it right, use solder and heat shrink tubing).

connect light green and brown into the reverse switch located on the passenger side of the T56 for the reverse lights to work. You can buy the pigtail, or engineer a way to get the wires to hold and be protected. I put the wires in and pinched them into place. The pigtail will run about $50 of unneccesary spending. Polarization does not matter. (again, use solder and heat shrink when you add wire to these)."

i have found a few harnesses that have each of these.. could u explain which harnesses these wires come from...?

dragonZ28
01-18-2005, 01:46 AM
ok i take back the unhooking the steering column.. i took it out to finish up the wiring and removing the ignition lock.

i have ran into some wiring problems though... i have hooked up the vss only, but the rest of the wiring i need clarification on. you said :

"connect the orange w/ black stripe and the black wires directly together for the hatch release to work.

connect the purple w/ white stripe and the dark green to the clutch switch on the manual pedal assembly so the clutch pedal needs to be depressed before the car will start. Polarization does matter here. I forget which wire goes to each connector, but trial and error will solve this in 2 seconds. (do it right, use solder and heat shrink tubing).

connect light green and brown into the reverse switch located on the passenger side of the T56 for the reverse lights to work. You can buy the pigtail, or engineer a way to get the wires to hold and be protected. I put the wires in and pinched them into place. The pigtail will run about $50 of unneccesary spending. Polarization does not matter. (again, use solder and heat shrink when you add wire to these)."

i have found a few harnesses that have each of these.. could u explain which harnesses these wires come from...?

These wires all come from the park/neutral switch, or what some may call the gear selector switch. When you removed the automatic shifter setup, there was a black box with these 6 wires running into it. This black box contains all of them, and it is located where the automatic shifter was on the center console area.

Stryker
01-18-2005, 09:18 PM
Well it was a success everything functions flawlessly.. except i think i need to rebleed my clutch since the pedal is feeling really weak...thanks for all the info and ill try to get some photos up soon...

linn_chris43
02-16-2005, 12:25 PM
I am new to this forum and stumbled on exactly what I needed. I am building a 67 camaro with an LT1/4l60e from an impala ss. I want A T56 (which from what I have been led to believe is better than the ZF). I saw nothing about reprogramming the PCM, is it nessecary?

wizardstar
02-16-2005, 04:42 PM
I am new to this forum and stumbled on exactly what I needed. I am building a 67 camaro with an LT1/4l60e from an impala ss. I want A T56 (which from what I have been led to believe is better than the ZF). I saw nothing about reprogramming the PCM, is it nessecary?

no it's not nessecary but your speedo will be way off and you will throw a ton of codes

Tech
02-16-2005, 05:15 PM
Let's get a write up. :cheers:

I'll provide webspace if need be. :)

wizardstar
02-16-2005, 08:09 PM
a right up on the pcm programing or the entire swap? there's a good right up already on the swap it's what I used when I did mine.... It even tells you what pin to tap on your pcm connector to hook up your reverse lockout. http://afrashteh.com/tranny_pics/T56.htm

SSnakekiller
02-22-2005, 10:52 AM
a right up on the pcm programing or the entire swap? there's a good right up already on the swap it's what I used when I did mine.... It even tells you what pin to tap on your pcm connector to hook up your reverse lockout. http://afrashteh.com/tranny_pics/T56.htm

So all the wiring is the same as in the link above for an LS1? Any pics of the MC and pedal assembly? Stryker? I am going to be doing this A4 to M6 swap very soon.

Someone said I can use my A4 wiring harness for the M6? Does that mean I dont have to wire anything? I havent fully read the text in the link but I am about to. I see the mod where you can start the car w/o clutch in but I'd rather have that safety precaution so I wont be doing that.

dragonZ28
02-23-2005, 12:01 PM
So all the wiring is the same as in the link above for an LS1? Any pics of the MC and pedal assembly? Stryker? I am going to be doing this A4 to M6 swap very soon.

Someone said I can use my A4 wiring harness for the M6? Does that mean I dont have to wire anything? I havent fully read the text in the link but I am about to. I see the mod where you can start the car w/o clutch in but I'd rather have that safety precaution so I wont be doing that.

No, the wiring is not all the same. I have noted the differences in how to wire the LS1 park/gear selector switch. As far as wiring in the reverse lockout, I cannot help you. I just plugged my tranny where it goes in, and I have never had a problem. Wiring the switch is different, and you'll need to see page 1 of this thread and view my wiring instructions of the switch.

:)

Stryker
02-24-2005, 11:02 AM
i got the pictures done last night and ill post them up hopefully this evening for ya..

Kalijah98z
02-24-2005, 12:04 PM
Guys, great job on explaining things, but try to clarify my next question.

My old (frontend totalled) car was an M6 98model and i just bought a 99model SS thats an auto. I have a complete car to take from, so other than "plug n play" what other wires and odds and ends do i have to look for and do?

SSnakekiller
02-24-2005, 12:34 PM
i got the pictures done last night and ill post them up hopefully this evening for ya..

That would be great!

Fierce-LS1
02-25-2005, 08:09 PM
I just finished an Auto to M6 swap tonight. I did the whole thing myself in my gargage. The differnce between what I did and what dragon Z was talking about is that I bought a m6 wiring harness.

Those thinking about doing an M6 swap WARNING....WARNING ......WARNING. DO NOT BUY A 99+ YEAR WAIRING HARNESS FOR A 98 AND VISE VERSA. YOU WILL FRY YOUR PCM. I found out the hard way. 99+years are all the same 98 is the only year that was different. Everything is very simple. Hardest part is cutting hole for the shifter and the master cylinder, otherwise very simple.

Wiring-----------If you just connect the Dark Green wire with the purple wire with the stripe you will not have to have the cluch depressed to start the car. No big deal (In My Own Opinion.


where did you get your wiring harness ?

dragonZ28
03-01-2005, 01:40 AM
Guys, great job on explaining things, but try to clarify my next question.

My old (frontend totalled) car was an M6 98model and i just bought a 99model SS thats an auto. I have a complete car to take from, so other than "plug n play" what other wires and odds and ends do i have to look for and do?
I believe that you may have some PCM issues, but I am not sure.

JayBirdWs6
03-01-2005, 11:12 AM
I did the A4 to M6 swap and i can get my speedometer right. What did you guys put in the computer to make your speedometer read right?

i have 3.73's in the rear.

dragonZ28
03-01-2005, 03:00 PM
I did the A4 to M6 swap and i can get my speedometer right. What did you guys put in the computer to make your speedometer read right?

i have 3.73's in the rear.
I sent my LS1edit file to a fellow board member, and he "tweaked" it to make it recognize the car as an M6. Then he emailed it back, and we uploaded it to the PCM. Viola, worked like a charm.

C_B64
03-13-2005, 12:46 PM
Where did you guys get all of your bolts from? WHere did you get the t 56 torque arm mount?

dragonZ28
03-15-2005, 10:03 AM
Where did you guys get all of your bolts from? WHere did you get the t 56 torque arm mount?
I got some from GM, and some from fastener stores. GM will give you the thread specs if you ask. Just buy grade 10 or higher bolts.

I fabbed the outer torque arm mount, and bought the inner piece from GM.

jeeves744
03-18-2005, 09:08 AM
does anyone know the parts# for the t56 torque arm mount?

WeeWolf
03-19-2005, 11:13 PM
stryker would like to see pics of the pedals also thanks

hocheehoba
03-20-2005, 08:25 PM
I am buying a 2004 ZO6 which has an 4-spd Automatic (yeah, I didn't know the ZO6 came in an automatic either). I would like to change the A4 to an 6-spd Manual.

Should I do this, or is the Automatic better?

Ken

93TAWicked1
03-20-2005, 09:10 PM
I am buying a 2004 ZO6 which has an 4-spd Automatic (yeah, I didn't know the ZO6 came in an automatic either). I would like to change the A4 to an 6-spd Manual.

Should I do this, or is the Automatic better?

Ken

HMMMM I think unless your going to do some HARD CORE racing, I would not buy a Z06 auto... It would have to be Dirt cheap or a freakin Monster.

I think if your in the buying phase you always BUY what you want even if you have to wait to get it or drive three states over.

When I did the swap in my 93 its because it was pretty heavily modded and I went through 4 trannys (I'm a BAD person to ask on the 4L60\T56 debate). Plus it was a 93 so the investment was out the window.

I would touch a 04 Z06 with a transmission conversion. Buy a coupe then mod it if you want an auto. If you want to go all out then Yank is working on a T400 setup in the C5

hocheehoba
03-21-2005, 10:09 PM
Well turns out the salesman doesnt know his head from a whole in the ground. The car is a 6-spd Manual. So, I bought it.

93TAWicked1
03-21-2005, 10:50 PM
HAH congrats that makes a little more sense, an auto Z06 would be pretty rare...and custom

OUTLANDERKANE
03-23-2005, 11:41 PM
Give Me Your Take On It. Thumbs Up Or Down, Did You See A Dramatic Improvement In 0-60, 1/4 Etc..?

02WS6Bird
03-27-2005, 08:46 PM
"shifter console insert (replaces automatic shifter insert)" where can i get that? Is that just the area the shifter is or is it the entire center console that needs the swap?

SSnakekiller
03-30-2005, 11:47 AM
Still no pics :(

Stryker? Any1?

dragonZ28
03-30-2005, 03:01 PM
"shifter console insert (replaces automatic shifter insert)" where can i get that? Is that just the area the shifter is or is it the entire center console that needs the swap?
It is an insert only. It is held in with a few screws. DO NOT BUY A SHIFT BOOT! This console insert comes with one. I found out the hard way.

M3EATER
03-30-2005, 07:49 PM
Ok .... here's some pics of my A4 to M6 swap which was done in 2002 when the A4 crapped out.

I'm giving you a link to the album of the pics... no captions or anything yet, but some of the pics may help some of you out.

I have it apart again right now (due to the stinkin' Spec clutch set-up), and I'll also address some wiring issues that I didn't find out about until I had it together (the first time) and they showed up.

M3EATER's A4 to M6 swap photos (http://www.villagephotos.com/pubbrowse.asp?folder_id=1277257)

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-3/974053/TransSwap006b.jpg

02WS6Bird
03-30-2005, 07:58 PM
Ok .... here's some pics of my A4 to M6 swap which was done in 2002 when the A4 crapped out.

I'm giving you a link to the album of the pics... no captions or anything yet, but some of the pics may help some of you out.

I have it apart again right now (due to the stinkin' Spec clutch set-up), and I'll also address some wiring issues that I didn't find out about until I had it together (the first time) and they showed up.

M3EATER's A4 to M6 swap photos (http://www.villagephotos.com/pubbrowse.asp?folder_id=1277257)

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-3/974053/TransSwap006b.jpg


Woudl you do it For me? lol Whered you get the center console? is it the whole thing form an M6 or is it just hte shifter part?

SSnakekiller
03-30-2005, 08:02 PM
I was able to get an M6 PCM and harness from the same year car as mine.

So I am assuming the T56 connectors will be able to plug right into the trans.

My question is, what wiring will I have to do? Any?? Pedals?

M3EATER
03-30-2005, 08:46 PM
Woudl you do it For me? lol Whered you get the center console? is it the whole thing form an M6 or is it just hte shifter part?


You just need the top part of the console, the main console is the same. I got all of my parts from the same donor car (a wreck).

M3EATER
03-30-2005, 08:48 PM
I was able to get an M6 PCM and harness from the same year car as mine.

So I am assuming the T56 connectors will be able to plug right into the trans.

My question is, what wiring will I have to do? Any?? Pedals?

You won't have the wiring in the car for the clutch pedal switches (I don't think I saw any extra harness plugs tucked up, unused). One of the other guys who posted in this thread said he had used an M6 harness .... maybe he can address this with you.

SSnakekiller
03-31-2005, 08:09 AM
Is there supposed to be a switch that goes on the clutch pedal itself?

You know like the switches that go on the brake pedal...well I see an indentation for what looks like a switch for the clutch pedal. I am not talking about the black switch that gets triggered when the clutch is down.

Can anyone go look or does anyone know off hand?

jwastedx
03-31-2005, 08:44 AM
there is a white switch on the m6 clutch pedal. I think it has for wires on it. It is pushed in when the clutch is not being used.

M3EATER
03-31-2005, 06:03 PM
there is a white switch on the m6 clutch pedal. I think it has for wires on it. It is pushed in when the clutch is not being used.


Yes, as noted, there is a white 4-pin switch (like the ones on the brake pedal). There are two circuits in the switch (2 pins for each circuit). They are open when the clutch is not depressed and closed when the pedal is depressed.

I'm not sure what they operate, but I'd assume that one of the circuits disengages the cruise control.

SSnakekiller
04-01-2005, 01:05 AM
there is a white switch on the m6 clutch pedal. I think it has for wires on it. It is pushed in when the clutch is not being used.

Yeah what gets wired to this switch? Where do the wires come from???

SSnakekiller
04-01-2005, 01:09 AM
Those thinking about doing an M6 swap WARNING....WARNING ......WARNING. DO NOT BUY A 99+ YEAR WAIRING HARNESS FOR A 98 AND VISE VERSA. YOU WILL FRY YOUR PCM. I found out the hard way. 99+years are all the same 98 is the only year that was different. Everything is very simple. Hardest part is cutting hole for the shifter and the master cylinder, otherwise very simple.


Anyone know about this problem? I was able to get an M6 PCM and wiring harness from a 2000 car and mine is a 2000. But I think the trans is a 98 or 99.

M3EATER
04-01-2005, 09:54 AM
I just took a good look at mine, there are no "unused" connectors in the area that would be used for that white clutch switch (on the automatic car) if the car were built as a 6-sp.

Therefore, you will not have the wiring in the car to be used for the switch (even if you use an M6 PCM harness .... this is part of the interior harness). Just ignore that switch when doing the A4 to M6 swap. You won't have the cruise control disengagement when the clutch is depressed .... just remember that when driving.

However, you will use the black switch that the clutch pedal contacts when depressed. Wire the dark green and purple wires (from the auto shifter switch harness) to the two terminals on this switch. This will allow the starter to engage with the clutch depressed AND allow the cruise control to work. If you just connect these two wires together, the starter will work all the time, but the cruise control will not work.

-------------

As for the different year transmission ..... that's not an issue. You just need to match the new M6 harness (if you are swapping to one ..... I did not) to the year type of the PCM ..... in other words.... 98 only or 99 thru 02.

I've added the wiring pics to the photo album at:

A4 to M6 Trans Swap (http://www.villagephotos.com/pubbrowse.asp?folder_id=1277257)

Here's just the new wiring pics (for the auto selector switch harness):

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-3/974053/TransSwapWiring010copy.jpg

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-3/974053/TransSwapWiring012.jpg

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-3/974053/TransSwapWiring006.jpg

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-3/974053/TransSwapWiring004.jpg

M3EATER
04-02-2005, 11:27 AM
More wiring photos are up:

Skip-Shift elimination for the Auto Harness (with a 6-sp flashed PCM)
Reverse switch wiring
Removing & plugging reverse lock-out solenoid

A4 to M6 Swap Photos (http://www.villagephotos.com/pubbrowse.asp?folder_id=1277257)

Here's just a couple of the new pics ... there are more at the link above:

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-3/974053/TransSwapWiring2-016.jpg

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-3/974053/TransSwapWiring2-013.jpg

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-3/974053/TransSwapWiring2-011.jpg

DanZ28
04-02-2005, 04:05 PM
If you use an M6 harness, do you use the A4 wiring from the center console still for the reverse lights and reverse lock out??

Dan

Fierce-LS1
04-02-2005, 04:24 PM
If you use an M6 harness, do you use the A4 wiring from the center console still for the reverse lights and reverse lock out??

Dan

good question, I didn't use an m6 harness, I'm using my a4 harness but have never gotten my reverse lockout to work right. :bang:

I've seen that SES light forever now

M3EATER
04-02-2005, 04:54 PM
If you use an M6 harness, do you use the A4 wiring from the center console still for the reverse lights and reverse lock out??

Dan

When using the A4 harness, the reverse circuit comes from the auto shifter selector switch and this is inside the interior. Hence, the need to make the wiring down to the reverse switch on the trans, from the harness that went to the shifter.

The M6 harness may verywell have the reverse switch plug on it. Look at the part of the harness that has the rear O2 sensors and the speed sensor plugs. See if there is also a plug that looks like the one shown in the above photos. You'll likely also have a plug for the Skip-Shift solenoid and one for the reverse lock-out solenoid.

By the way ..... the skip-shift and the reverse lock out may work just fine with the M6 harness (asuming that it does have the connectors as mentioned above). Although, I think the switch on the brake pedal would need to be different for the reverse lock-out to work. There is a brake pedal switch for the A4 that controls the shifter lock (you have to have your foot on the brake to shift from PARK). I was hoping to be able to use this circuit (just cut the plug from the wires that went to the lock solenoid and wire them to the reverse lock-out). However, this switch is normally closed when the brake is not pushed ..... opposite of what the reverse lock-out needs.

M3EATER
04-02-2005, 04:58 PM
good question, I didn't use an m6 harness, I'm using my a4 harness but have never gotten my reverse lockout to work right. :bang:

I've seen that SES light forever now


If you want to have the reverse lock-out work proprly, you'll have to figure out how to use a brake pedal switch to run power to the solenoid when the pedal is depressed.

You can also just run a hot wire (hot when ignition is on) to the solenoid and then to ground...... this will energize the solenoid all the time when the ignition is on. Quite frankly, you might as well remove it in this case.

Your SES light is for the Skip-Shift (assuming that everything else was done correctly). You can cure it by installing the 2.2K resistor as shown above.

SSnakekiller
04-02-2005, 10:25 PM
I just did the LS1 4L60 to T56 Swap Guide with a few pics:

http://www.jlturbo.com/guide/m6swap.doc

This is a modified/added to version of the LT1 Guide.

Enjoy! :drive:

DanZ28
04-10-2005, 05:10 PM
On the brake/clutch pedal assembly, I have a white two wire switch with a pink and brown wire, does this go on the brake pedal or clutch pedal? what's it for? Also, on the clutch safety switch, what wire (purple and green) goes to which terminal on the switch if they are polarized?

Thanks,
Dan

SSkeet
04-10-2005, 06:30 PM
On the brake/clutch pedal assembly, I have a white two wire switch with a pink and brown wire, does this go on the brake pedal or clutch pedal? what's it for? Also, on the clutch safety switch, what wire (purple and green) goes to which terminal on the switch if they are polarized?

Thanks,
Dan

I will check on the white switch but for the clutch safety switch (black), polarity does not matter...it is just completing the circuit when the switch is in/out.

DanZ28
04-10-2005, 07:48 PM
Thanks!

If you could check out the other switch, I would appreciate it. I'm thinking it goes on the brake pedal as we (A4) cars didn't have anything to go on te clutch pedal in the first place. There are provisions for two swithces on the brake pedal so I'll assume it goes on the upper hole?!

Dan

ls1itldo
04-13-2005, 10:01 PM
Just finished up the swap, and i found a few difference from what i read as far as the cruise control. I did not use a clutch switch at all, just connected the wires together and called it a day, and the cruise control works fine, it doesn't disengage when you push the clutch, but it works. The car is a 98, maybe that is where the difference is? Also, i didn't have to do anything with the vats..

blkmgc1
04-19-2005, 05:34 PM
ok i have the opposite problem i want to go to a a4 and cant find a thing about the swap can anyone tell me in detail and what parts (all of them ) i would need please i need to do this badly cause i trashed my knee and cant drive my car anymore due to the clutch a friend of mine said he would do the work for me if i got the parts thanks guys and or girls :)

Wyckedcamaro
04-27-2005, 08:42 PM
Where can I find a conversion kit from a4 to m6?

Is there a place that sells the ENTIRE KIT needed for the swap?

sevanseriesta
04-28-2005, 12:59 PM
Where can I find a conversion kit from a4 to m6?

Is there a place that sells the ENTIRE KIT needed for the swap?


To tell you the truth it is going to be really hard to find somewhere that sells the whole kit but I think that this place does sell the whole thing do a google search on : Trans Am Creations. I bought everything to do mine on this site. I got everything for about $1200 that was pretty cheap. I know that Transam creations will not sell you a tranny cause they sell tranny and engine combos. But everything else to make it work will cost you about $280 and all you have to do is get the tranny.

SSnakekiller
04-28-2005, 01:02 PM
To tell you the truth it is going to be really hard to find somewhere that sells the whole kit but I think that this place does sell the whole thing do a google search on : Trans Am Creations. I bought everything to do mine on this site. I got everything for about $1200 that was pretty cheap. I know that Transam creations will not sell you a tranny cause they sell tranny and engine combos. But everything else to make it work will cost you about $280 and all you have to do is get the tranny.

Yeah these guys should have all the other stuff, maybe even sell you a tranny, they are like 20 minutes from me, I have delt with them before, they are pretty helpful.

TransAM Creations:
http://www.tacreationsusa.com/
954-769-0985

sevanseriesta
04-28-2005, 03:20 PM
Yeah they are great guys to work with they were very helpful

Michael Ozorowsky
05-13-2005, 07:33 PM
will tq converter bolts work to attach clutch to pressure plate??

jeeves744
05-15-2005, 03:11 PM
will tq converter bolts work to attach clutch to pressure plate??


i think so, but seriously, do yourself a favor and get some ARP bolts

Michael Ozorowsky
05-15-2005, 05:53 PM
Are those the $10 arp bolts on jegs? They had some kidn of weird head on them like an 8 pt or something. Also, how did you guys remove the automatic transmission dipstick tube? Do I have to cut it out of car?

Marc '99T/A
05-24-2005, 03:37 AM
how did you guys remove the automatic transmission dipstick tube? Do I have to cut it out of car?

If I remember, the tube is held in by a bracket that bolts to the block, maybe like halfway up the tube. Just take the bolt out, then the tube can just be pulled out of the transmission.

Batosai
05-24-2005, 12:46 PM
What type of labor cost would it take to get this done? Any suggestions on shops? Does the cost estimate for parts include core charges / exchange of auto trans?




OK. Here is a parts list needed for swapping out a 4L60E for a T56 in an LS1 Fbody:

master + slave cylinders (prefer 01 up) (also, master cylinder u-bolt and nuts)
new pedal assembly with clips for clutch rod and brake rod
new console tray with shift boot, and lower shift boot
pilot bearing, bellhousing, T56, crossmember, T56 torque arm mount and bolts, shifter
pressure plate, flywheel, clutch, and all related bolts and clutch tool
You will need to have your PCM flashed to a 6spd PCM, but you do not need a new PCM

THE SAME DRIVESHAFT CAN BE USED

REWIRING instructions: (disconnect battery)

connect the orange w/ black stripe and the black wires directly together for the hatch release to work.

connect the purple w/ white stripe and the dark green to the clutch switch on the manual pedal assembly so the clutch pedal needs to be depressed before the car will start. Polarization does matter here. I forget which wire goes to each connector, but trial and error will solve this in 2 seconds. (do it right, use solder and heat shrink tubing).

connect light green and brown into the reverse switch located on the passenger side of the T56 for the reverse lights to work. You can buy the pigtail, or engineer a way to get the wires to hold and be protected. I put the wires in and pinched them into place. The pigtail will run about $50 of unneccesary spending. Polarization does not matter. (again, use solder and heat shrink when you add wire to these).

Also, the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) will need to be cut, and elongated by soldering on about 6 inches of extra wire to each wire going into the connector. This VSS will plug directly into the VSS port on the drivers side of the T56 by the shifter.

WATCH THE FOLLOWING FUSES: starter, gauges, Turn/BU lights.

Troublesome parts:

The hardest part is mounting the master cylinder. Pulling the auto is no big deal. You will need a long extension or two, and a swivel joint to get this thing out though.

The steering column will need to come out, but it is pretty simple. 6 bolts hold it in. 1 is under the hood at the joint in the column, 3 are on the firewall behind the pedals, and two are holding it to the underside of the dash. Afetr these are removed and all electrical connectors are unplugged, wiggle it out of there. It should be free of any connections at this point, except the safety device on the top of the column. Follow the device that hooked to your auto shifter up to your column. Take this off. I believe it has 2 screws holding it in place. This locks the ignition until the car is in park. Since you no longer have "park", this thing needs to go.

Everything else can be found in the LT1 instructions above. They are almost exactly the same, except the wiring instructions. If you have any questions, send me a PM here, or our local message board www.kyhorsepower.com if I haven't responded in a timely manner. (sorry MIGHTYMOUSE :) )

This whole conversion costed me only $2300. This can be done in a garage with jackstands and intelligence. Don't be stupid and attempt heavy lifting or dropping without help by your side.

Michael Ozorowsky
05-24-2005, 08:34 PM
If I remember, the tube is held in by a bracket that bolts to the block, maybe like halfway up the tube. Just take the bolt out, then the tube can just be pulled out of the transmission.

right, but how do we COMPLETELY remove the tube from the car? Transmission and everything is completely out, dipstick tube hanging there, but only waY i could fully pull it out of car is if I pulled the pass side head and intake, from the looks of it.

Marc '99T/A
05-24-2005, 10:45 PM
What about that bolt? Can you see the bracket that bolts to either the head or the block? Or is the bolt already out? It's been a couple of years, but I think that's all you need to take the tube out.

Michael Ozorowsky
05-25-2005, 05:52 PM
Bolt is out, tranny is out. Tube is completely hanging there, but too tight, and tube is bent weird ways (Stock) that I can't pull it up or down around motor. Wasn't sure if there is a trick

blkmgc1
05-25-2005, 06:53 PM
it will come out ya have to take it out from the top and it takes a great deal of patience to do it took me about an hour to get mine in just try from the top and move it around a little at a time it'll come good luck

sevanseriesta
05-26-2005, 08:27 AM
The one thing that you are going to need to force you may even need to bend it a little. That is what I had to do to get it out.

blkmgc1
05-27-2005, 04:53 PM
now that ya mention it so did i not fun at all i

02WS6Bird
05-27-2005, 09:43 PM
For those of you who have had it professionally installed- how much did the labor cost and did you use the A4 or M6 wiring harness?

For those of you who have installed it yourself- specifically ones near me in the Midwest- How much would you charge me to pay you lol

blkmgc1
05-28-2005, 01:19 AM
i think alot of guys just mod the harness myself i just sold my m6 harness and i'm gonna buy a new a4 harness retail is around 500 for the harness if your doing the a4 to m6 swap i'll swap ya pedals that's all i have left sold everything else but somewhere in one of these threads i read that it was around 2k to do it yourself

mario65
05-29-2005, 12:24 PM
I am in the middle of a a3 to m6 swap. I appreciate the pics and info on the wiring. I think I am set except I have no one close with ls1edit and I need a reflash but my pcm already ahas custom tuning. Whats the quickest and esiest way toget it flashed to m6 without losing my custom tuning? The closest ls1edit is 3 hours away.

Marc '99T/A
05-31-2005, 03:26 AM
Where can I find a conversion kit from a4 to m6?

Is there a place that sells the ENTIRE KIT needed for the swap?
One of the site sponsors: Tennessee Auto Sales & Parts:
http://www.tennesseeauto.com/ust56swkitof.html

jeeves744
06-05-2005, 12:45 AM
Bolt is out, tranny is out. Tube is completely hanging there, but too tight, and tube is bent weird ways (Stock) that I can't pull it up or down around motor. Wasn't sure if there is a trick


me and my friends tried for a little while, then my friend got pissed and snapped it in half with his hands :lol: Came out really easy then. :jest:

98DroptopSS
06-07-2005, 01:09 PM
What is the best way to get your pcm flashed when going from an a4 to m6? I don't have a laptop or a shop worth a shit around here. I do have access to a tech 2 if that will work. Is there a place you can send your pcm to that can do it? If so how much?

GETSOMZ28
06-07-2005, 01:31 PM
To get the dipstip out, I found it necessary to remove the passenger side coil packs. This allowed enough room for the tranny dipstick to come out.

Best place to get your PCM reflashed to a M6 is to go to the dealer. A4's and M6's use different operating systems.

sevanseriesta
06-07-2005, 02:21 PM
Good Luck going to the dealer. Just get a M6 pcm. IT is cheaper and less hassle. Most dealer are going to charge you about 110 to 150 and you can get a pcm for probably about 60 to 100 from someone on this site. That is what I did. Then I used my HPTuners to change the vin that is on my car to the pcm.

GETSOMZ28
06-15-2005, 05:46 PM
You can use your A4 wiring harness. Look in the beginning of this thread to find which ones go where in the beginning of this thread.

TWS
06-16-2005, 05:39 PM
Seems like most of the knowledge shared here is focused on the A4 to M6 direction. I'd like to see more input on going from M6 to A4 or even A3.

I love driving an M6 car, especially on the street, but my '02 is starting to eat the M6 that we completely rebuilt just 1 year and about 2000 miles ago. :mad: Bought about $1000 parts from The Gear Box and Bugsquasher did the honors just about a year ago. The power level just wants to eat up a stock rebuild and it's a little "twitchy" to launch at the dragstrip. (spin or bog, take your pick)

sevanseriesta
06-17-2005, 07:15 AM
There is a lot more work that goes into swapping a car to an a4 there are a bunch more sensors that are inside the compartment on an A4 I am not sure if the m6 cars come with the sensors or connectors already preinstalled.

02WS6Bird
06-17-2005, 11:00 AM
What about reflashing your PCM at a speed shop such as Speed Inc, or Straightline performance. I plan to go to them so i am very curious.

GETSOMZ28
06-17-2005, 06:04 PM
What about reflashing your PCM at a speed shop such as Speed Inc, or Straightline performance. I plan to go to them so i am very curious.


I just reflashed mine to a M6 using hptuners (make sure it is from the same model year). Do the "rewrite entire VCM" using the flash utility

Michael Ozorowsky
06-26-2005, 09:50 PM
hey guys, TIP: Remove your passenger side coil packs and AIR tube and you can wiggle the dipstick right out.

Question: The VSS for A4 and M6 LS1 are SAME right? I just have to make the VSS for manual longer? Just want to clarify thanks.

GETSOMZ28
06-27-2005, 04:55 PM
Yes, the VSS is the same connector for both M6 and A4.

Michael Ozorowsky
06-27-2005, 11:53 PM
reverse Lockout---Anyone find a writeup? Would like to install reverse lockout thanks :)

Z'mnypit
06-30-2005, 08:38 AM
If any of you guys are wanting to convert to a4, I have a really nice setup Im willing to trade for a t56 conversion. Heres the link.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=337723

Michael Ozorowsky
07-14-2005, 08:15 PM
Couple tips:

for reverse lockout, wire to brake light, Green wire I think

Also, if your ASR doesn't work after install, reflash ECM to M6 tune, and will work.

30thTA0525
07-15-2005, 12:49 AM
i just did an A4-M6 swap and on the wiring i just followed the instructions in the link at the begining of this thread and instead of going too GM and buying pigtails for $20 or $30 or whatever it is they are i went down too good ole autozone and bought pigtails for a water temp sensor that they had in their wiring supplies for a $1.75 and it was a direct fit for the VSS and nearly direct for the reverse lockout and i used just regular connectors for the reverse light plug and wired it all up as instructed and it all works flawlessly except on the reverse lockout i went the lazy man route and wired up a toggle switch and robbed some power from the cigerette lighter and it works great.. i just flip the switch if i need to realise it (mainly did it for the wife cause i was getting by fine without it at all but it was a little stiff for her) but i eventually plan too just wire it up too the brake lights to power it no M6 harness is needed or any extravigant wiring.. those parts used alog with those instructions is all anyone needs too compleat this task and have a fully functioning set up minus CAGS.. this was a 94' TA BTW

GETSOMZ28
07-15-2005, 09:16 PM
Reverse lockout wiring instructions (for at least an '02):

The reverse lockout is a simple switch: Green wire is ground and pink wire is power. I grounded the green wire just behind the airbag module under the center console and hooked the pink power wire to the blue wire (located on a harness next to an orange wire) from the brake switch (on the pedals).

Walla, reverse solenoid is locked out except when the brake pedal is pressed.

LS1-MAN
07-18-2005, 12:42 PM
Thats what I'm saying. Thats alot of money to put into one for a changeout. I want to go the other way. I have a 02 M6 and want to make it a automatic. anybody have a auto and want to go 6 spd. maybe we can trade some parts. I sure won't need the new spec 3 clutch i just had installed or the shifter, pedal assembly and slave unit. If you have a auto and want to work something out let me know.

arnold
07-23-2005, 01:03 AM
Hey i am interested i have an 01 TA with auto give me a call at 847-962-2769
thanks Greg

monsterls1
08-09-2005, 10:40 PM
CAn anyone recommend a shop that will do the swap for me in Chicago or anywhere close,i called Speed Inc. and was told it was too complex of a job for them too take on.

Wing Zero
08-15-2005, 01:22 PM
Speed Scene Wiring has help a friend of mine do a A4 To M6 and back again. (He keep changing his mind)
www.speedscenewiring.com
We have been asked to provide a guide to doing a TH400/350 and a glide conversion for our cars. We also have been asked by a few members on how to do a M6 to A4 and A4 to M6 conversion. I have not personally done one, but I have a general idea on how to accomplish this. Can someone provide any specific details on this conversion, either way. For instance, PCM programming is required. A new wiring harness may be required for the different connectors, or at least rewiring it for the electrically inclined, etc.

Any information you guys could provide would be very useful!

Race Car Driver
08-15-2005, 02:26 PM
Wow, Speed, Inc's turning down a A4/M6 swap because it's too complex lowers my opinion of them. Call Futral, he'll do it for you.CAn anyone recommend a shop that will do the swap for me in Chicago or anywhere close,i called Speed Inc. and was told it was too complex of a job for them too take on.

02WS6Bird
08-20-2005, 11:01 PM
Will the swap from A4 - M6 effect OBD-II Emissions laws? What about if removing the AIR system as well? I really would like to know since the time i plan to do this is before i have to take it in.

A-man930
09-05-2005, 11:26 AM
Wow, this stuff is involved! lol, I have a '94 TA and want to do the A4 to M6 swap. I called Tennesee auto and they said they're runing a little dry on LT-1 T-56's as of late. Would it be cost efective to convert an LS-1 T-56? I haven't started buying parts yet so I'd like to avoid any unnecesary buys.

lrk322
10-04-2005, 03:18 AM
I have found shops will do the swap for as low as $650

tici
10-04-2005, 05:59 AM
Wow, this stuff is involved! lol, I have a '94 TA and want to do the A4 to M6 swap. I called Tennesee auto and they said they're runing a little dry on LT-1 T-56's as of late. Would it be cost efective to convert an LS-1 T-56? I haven't started buying parts yet so I'd like to avoid any unnecesary buys.

A few addresses:

www.billygrahamscamaro.com
www.hawksthirdgenparts.com
www.hpsalvage.com
www.regalperformance.com
www.fparts.us

They all have LT1 / LS1 transmission swap kits + other used parts.
LS1 from $2000
LT1 from $1800

hawksthirdgenparts is preparig my kit: it should be here in :drive:

Reject
10-11-2005, 08:52 PM
damn love all this info here! cant wait to start having spare money to swap to M6...cuss sticking it in D gets boring.... lol

:hail: T-56!!!

JSTAN
10-12-2005, 04:14 PM
Has anyone done an A4 to M6 swap on a C5? I am considering this swap and would love to pick your brain.

snketr
10-25-2005, 02:04 PM
Has anyone done an A4 to M6 swap on a C5? I am considering this swap and would love to pick your brain.

Yes :drive: get on www.corvettforum.com and do a search. I did a big write up when I did mine.

JSTAN
10-27-2005, 09:06 PM
Yes :drive: get on www.corvettforum.com and do a search. I did a big write up when I did mine.


Email sent :chug:

peteTA
01-12-2006, 08:46 PM
i want to convert my ws6 A4 to a 6speed. If ur looking for a A4 adn vice versa for me email me. Redbull660r@aol.com or IM me Redbull660r. My car is a 01 with 22,500 miles on it.

SMUSTIN
01-24-2006, 06:06 PM
If You're Gonna Go From T56 To 4l60e, Lemme Know Im Gonna Be Doin The Opposite And We Could Trade A Lot Of The Parts To Save Money. 82k On My Trans Shifts As Firm As Day One. Benn Running B&m Shift Plus For 20k And Its A Great Cheap Mod. Ne Way If You're Local That Would Be Better But We'll Figure It Out. My Int Color Is Black 98 Z28

AlexA
01-28-2006, 10:11 AM
Hey...didn't know a whole sticky thread was made on this! I'm the author of (I guess?) the original A4->T56 guide. Besides a write up, there are plenty of pictures too :

http://afrashteh.com/tranny_pics

There is also a T56 service manual in there. ;)

Makes my day to see the hard work I put into that write up has really paid off. I can't take 100% credit though as some folks on camaroz28 had done some of the headwork.

Happy swapping... :drive:

Later,
Alex

Michael Ozorowsky
01-31-2006, 10:04 PM
so has anyone gotten cruise control working? Any tips.

tici
02-01-2006, 04:26 AM
so has anyone gotten cruise control working? Any tips.

Cruise control works fine if you connect the clutch switch correctly (this to start the car). Some people just connect the wires permanently: cruise control doesn't work + it's dangerous.

You also need to install a second cruise control switch on the clutch pedal, connencted in series to the other switch on the brake pedal.
Those switches open a circuit that disables cruise control.

JakeY2KZ
02-01-2006, 06:38 AM
Has anyone ever thrown this SES before after the swap?

P0704 - Clutch switch circuit

I know I wired up the clutch switch correctly (black switch). I still don't have cruise control though so I'm thinking this is related to the SES being thrown. Anyone want to point me in a direction. For some reason I was thinking that there was suppose to be another switch connected (back of clutch pedal) but there's no wires or connector to plug into it.

Michael Ozorowsky
02-01-2006, 07:31 PM
Cruise control works fine if you connect the clutch switch correctly (this to start the car). Some people just connect the wires permanently: cruise control doesn't work + it's dangerous.

You also need to install a second cruise control switch on the clutch pedal, connencted in series to the other switch on the brake pedal.
Those switches open a circuit that disables cruise control.

Could you elaborate on this more? Are you saying that the switch for clutch pedal, if I connect the wires together so you do not need the clutch pushed in in order to drive car, if I connect those together the cruise will work?

tici
02-02-2006, 02:42 AM
If you connect those wires together permanently you don't need to push the clutch to start the engine BUT the cruise control won't work.
I'm talking about the big black clutch switch.

I personally think it's unsafe to don't use the clutch switch: if you start the car with the clutch engaged it may make a jump and hit something or someone.

It's also important to conntect the other switch that disables cruise controle: when you push the clutch pedal to shift the car looses a little speed and the cruise controle will open the throttle. You don't want that!

Marc '99T/A
02-04-2006, 07:38 PM
Are there any special tools to make this job easier? I'm going to be doing the swap in two weeks, and I just want to have everything lined up ahead of time.

Michael Ozorowsky
02-06-2006, 07:35 PM
I have the clutch pedal hooked up so that the car won't start without clutch pedal depressed. What do I need so that the cruise control will work? I try pushing the cruise control, nothing works. Won't accelerate or anything. Any idea why? Have any pics? I don't see anything about cruise control in the writeups everything else works fine.

tici
02-07-2006, 01:08 AM
on the brake pedal there is a switch for stop light + TCC (with 4 connectors) and a small one with only 2 connectors.
The small one belongs to the cruise control system. When you push the brake pedal it will OPEN: in this way the PCM knows that it has to turn off the cruise control.
If you don't connect this switch the cruise control won't work. You also need to adjust it correctly: use a multimeter and check it's function. It should open as soon you move the brake pedal a little. There is a plastick nut to adjust.

You need the same switch also on the clutch pedal. Adjust it the same way with a multimeter, then connect it IN SERIES with the other cruise control switch.
Result: either you push the clutch or the brake the cruise control will be deactivated.

gettinthere
02-09-2006, 12:04 PM
Here are a few tips from when I did the M6 -> A4 swap a couple of weeks ago.

First thing is to make sure you have everything. That being said, here are some tips:

1. Drop the steering colum to take the pedals out. It'll make things much much easier. Also remember where all of the plugs go. Take a pic if it'll help.

2. You're going to have a decent sized hole in the tunnel where the M6 shifter came up thru. You'll need to cover this. Here is what I did. Get a piece of decently think sheet metal atleast 18"x18" and some self tapping screws. Trace the hole onto a piece of paper. Then cut the metal 1" larger than the trace. You'll only be able to go 1/2" bigger on the top (front) due to space. From there line it up. Then drill some holes thru the sheet metal and the tunnel. Keep the holes you drill as close to the lip of the tunnel hole as possible (1/4-1/2"). Use a very thin drill bit. I made 2 on the top, 2 on the bottom and 3 on each side. That was more than enough. Then screw it down. After you've got it screwed down you'll need a rubber mallet. You'll notice you have all of the edges sticking out. Beat them into place with the mallet. After a bit they will all fold down nicely and it'll lood good. Then go under the car. Fill in the new "seam" of the cover and the tunnel lip with some black RTV sealant. Use plenty and go around the entire rim. Allow that to dry. Then mock up your shifter to see there your shifter cable will come thru. It should be on the drivers front part of the cover. Then go back under the car and drill thru with a 2" hole saw. Feed the shifter cable up and pop the rubber gromet into place.

3. A lift makes things very easy.

Here's all that you will need parts wise.....

4L60E with bell housing
A4 shifter
A4 wiring harness
A4 crossmember
A4 flexplate
A4 upper console
A4 pedals
Trans dip stick tube
Converter
Trans cooler
And you'll need an A4 tune thrown in it or have it reflashed to an A4.

If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.

-Brian

strippedZ
02-11-2006, 08:53 AM
I am about to do the A4 to M6 and have a friend that works for Gm and claims that both reverse lockout and CAGS will have to be wired up to keep trouble codes away but it seems that I can just take out the reverse lockout and not hook up CAGS and I will be fine . Did I understand this correctly ?
As for drilling a hole for the master cylinder , my car already has a hole with a rubber plug in it .

tici
02-11-2006, 10:01 AM
I am about to do the A4 to M6 and have a friend that works for Gm and claims that both reverse lockout and CAGS will have to be wired up to keep trouble codes away but it seems that I can just take out the reverse lockout and not hook up CAGS and I will be fine . Did I understand this correctly ?


You can eliminate the error codes generated by those things:

P0801 (reverse lockout solenoid check) SES OFF - Error Mode = X
P0803 (upshift solenoid control circuit) SES OFF - Error Mode = X
P0804 (upshift lamp control circuit) SES OFF - Error Mode = X
M6 CAGS Enable Temperature = 250F

The reverse lockout is a safety device: some people connect it to the stop light (as I did). It's not bullet proof but it avoid shifting 6-R instead of 6-5 on the highway... It would be better to install a diode in series of the solenoid or it will make sparks in the stop lights relais and burn it.
You also can remove the internals of the solenoid so it won't lock the reverse when it's not connected.

As for drilling a hole for the master cylinder , my car already has a hole with a rubber plug in it .
You lucky guy!

Marc '99T/A
02-13-2006, 08:18 PM
While doing the conversion with a used but recently rebuilt transmission, are there any seals or bearings that should be replaced since everything will be out? Mine will hopefully be put in the shop this weekend for the swap. :)

tici
02-14-2006, 01:35 AM
I would say pilot and TO bearings, slave cylinder, rear engine seal (only if it leaks).
Is it a new clutch? It would be a good idea to check if it's zero balanced (included flywheel). New doesn't mean perfect (as I experienced).

Marc '99T/A
02-14-2006, 01:52 AM
Thanks for the response; it is an old stock clutch and flywheel.

gettinthere
02-14-2006, 10:02 AM
While doing the conversion with a used but recently rebuilt transmission, are there any seals or bearings that should be replaced since everything will be out? Mine will hopefully be put in the shop this weekend for the swap. :)


The only thing that you'll need is a new pilot bearing. Just check the rest and replace if needed.

Marc '99T/A
02-14-2006, 04:21 PM
Thanks.

gettinthere
02-14-2006, 04:29 PM
No problem.

I just did the swap going both ways about a month ago. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions.

camaroguy26
03-12-2006, 11:24 AM
for all of you that converted from A4 to M6 was it worth it? Do you like the new setup? or would you rather of just upgraded the A4?

DanZ28
03-12-2006, 12:51 PM
for all of you that converted from A4 to M6 was it worth it? Do you like the new setup? or would you rather of just upgraded the A4?

It was Worth it for me. I was just getting bored with the A4 myself and once I blew my BUILT 4l60e, I just decided to do the M6 and 12 bolt swap. If I ever went back to an Auto, I would do the TH400/trans brake swap.

Dan

camaroguy26
03-12-2006, 03:16 PM
sweet, I found a complete kit off of a 98 WS6 as in how complete I don't really know as of yet, but it's 200 bucks. I just know it doesn't come with the tranny, shifter, and definately need the new console. Is 200 bucks about right for everything? How easy is it to find a used tranny and console in junk yards?

Marc '99T/A
03-17-2006, 12:32 PM
Just got the car back last night. I'm sooo glad I did the swap. It was definately worth the $. Makes the car so much more fun to drive. :) :drive:

tici
03-17-2006, 12:48 PM
sweet, I found a complete kit off of a 98 WS6 as in how complete I don't really know as of yet, but it's 200 bucks. I just know it doesn't come with the tranny, shifter, and definately need the new console. Is 200 bucks about right for everything? How easy is it to find a used tranny and console in junk yards?

soo... what are you getting for $200?
A kit is composed by:
tranny
shifter
console
pedals
hydraulics
clutch

kits like that are sold for about $2000

8a8mfh
03-26-2006, 07:35 PM
Will a center console top and boots out of a M5 V6 car work in an A4 to M6 swap?

Deeavi
03-29-2006, 09:53 AM
I am getting ready to do the swap. Got the tranny from Keisler and most of the other stuff from Fred Beans gm site - Those guys have been very helpful.

I have my 4L60E + 2 Torque converters(stock and a 2500 TCI) if any one is interested. I have used Mobil1 tranny fluid exclusively and the tranny is in good condition.

8a8mfh
03-29-2006, 06:35 PM
Is Billy Graham a fucking retard?
I call up to order some stuff and he says I'm better off getting it at my dealer and to just call and tell them that I am Billy Graham and it'll get me his discount.
Ok I call and guess what, yea just what you'd expect Billy Graham who?
He was a nice guy but he missed out on a sale just under $1000 of misc stuff that I ended up getting at the dealer.

Deeavi
03-29-2006, 06:41 PM
Is Billy Graham a fucking retard?
I call up to order some stuff and he says I'm better off getting it at my dealer and to just call and tell them that I am Billy Graham and it'll get me his discount.
Ok I call and guess what, yea just what you'd expect Billy Graham who?
He was a nice guy but he missed out on a sale just under $1000 of misc stuff that I ended up getting at the dealer.

Call Fred Beans. Best GM prices I have found!

Bad Blu Formula
04-03-2006, 09:04 PM
I just finished the swap and am very happy. The only real problem was that the clutch switch was broken so the car wouldn't start until I put the wires together. The minor problem is that the speedo is off quite a bit. Overall everything was good.

M3EATER
04-03-2006, 09:28 PM
You need to have the PCM reprogrammed to be a 6-sp unit, for the speedo to work. Or, have that part reprogrammed with LS1 Edit.

8a8mfh
04-05-2006, 08:40 PM
What do you do with the shift lock cable when swapping to a M6?

DanZ28
04-05-2006, 10:25 PM
I just pulled mine out. If I remember right, I had to pull the steering column to detatch it.

8a8mfh
04-05-2006, 10:48 PM
That sucks, I swapped out my pedal assembly with the column in place.

tici
04-06-2006, 01:03 AM
What do you do with the shift lock cable when swapping to a M6?

You can leave it there, it's doing nothing. You don't need to detach it from the steering column.
Mine is hidden somewhere under the console.

I also installed the pedals with the steering column in place... :eek2:
I had to take the pedals apart and install them piece by piece on place.

DanZ28
04-06-2006, 12:11 PM
Steering column is easy to remove. You don't have to detatch the cable but I'm anal about stuff like that :).

Dan

gettinthere
04-06-2006, 02:34 PM
The steering column is real easy. 4 nuts under the dash (2 to hold it in, 2 to remove a backet) and 3 bolts on the firewall.

8a8mfh
04-06-2006, 05:17 PM
All I did was remove the gas pedal on both. I see no reason what so ever to remove the column. After all the bolts and switches were out and the pedal assembly was loose it took two minutes to take one out and put the other one in.

8a8mfh
04-06-2006, 05:19 PM
What about the reverse lock out? Anyone ever try wiring the reverse lockout solenoid to the park lock solenoid wires? Seems too easy.

gettinthere
04-06-2006, 07:55 PM
All I did was remove the gas pedal on both. I see no reason what so ever to remove the column. After all the bolts and switches were out and the pedal assembly was loose it took two minutes to take one out and put the other one in.


You have a little more room to work with it out.

M3EATER
04-07-2006, 05:01 AM
What about the reverse lock out? Anyone ever try wiring the reverse lockout solenoid to the park lock solenoid wires? Seems too easy.


It doesn't work. The on/off in the circuit is opposite of what you need for the reverse lock-out.

8a8mfh
04-08-2006, 06:02 AM
It doesn't work. The on/off in the circuit is opposite of what you need for the reverse lock-out.

Alright, I guess I'll just leave it disconnected. It shifts ok on the bench, I kind of like the detent feel of the unenergized solenoid. Still waiting on the clutch so I can complete the swap and get it in the car...Thanks.

M3EATER
04-08-2006, 01:52 PM
If you leave the solenoid in place - you have to give the shifter a REAL healthy shove to get it over to the right for reverse. I have torn rotator cuffs (bum shoulders) so this got pretty old.

When I pulled everything to replace the Spec clutch, I just removed the solenoid (and epoxied in a plug). Of course, now ... if someone else drives the car .... they can punch reverse instead of 5th.

8a8mfh
04-08-2006, 03:36 PM
Has anyone tried wiring it up to 44 on the computer (VCM)?
I'm going to use HPTuners when I do the swap. Does this turn some of the outputs to the A4 into outputs for the M6?

I seen a diagram somewhere that showed 44 going to the 2-3 shift solenoid for the A4 and the reverse solenoid for the M6. Anyone try this.

I'd rather wire it up close to factory as possible. I may just try it unenergized and if it gets old wire it up to the brake switch or just a toggle.

So far I swapped the rear gears, got the pedals in, picked up close to $400 worth of parts from GM like the complete console top, the lower boots, pedal pads, the neutral safety wiring plug, the master cylinder kit.

Next I'll do the drill mod and put the master in. A few hundered more miles and the gears will be broken in, I think then I will take the auto out and related parts.
I ordered the clutch, flywheel, slave, etc from GMPP so I figure I have a few months before I get that :bang:

8a8mfh
04-16-2006, 08:35 AM
I got the swap done, now the cruise control doesn't work. It did work after I put the pedals and switches in and the automatic was in it. The clutch pedal would shut it off too.
I changed to a 2002 M6 vcm with HPTuners and deleted 801 and 803 ses codes.
Could the new program I put in be for a car without cruise?

The only difference I noticed was a plug on the clutch pedal with a gray wire and a black/white wire. Theres no place to connect this to. I did the wiring as shown in this thread with the neutral safety switch wired.
Any ideas whats wrong?

M3EATER
04-16-2006, 09:42 AM
The PCM is looking for the other clutch switch. The one that would be mounted like the switch for the brake pedal. This is the one that tells the system that you've pushed the clutch pedal and it shuts the cruise off. You need to figure out which wires from the PCM are now acting as the wires that would go to that switch (the wires would have been doing something else for the automatic). Once this is determined, you'll just connect them together.

I have not figured this out yet. I need a full wiring diagram for the PCM (with 6-sp), noting all of the pin/wire functions. I haven't done an exhaustive search, but haven't found one yet.

Anyone else have the info?


Oh .....
By the way, For the reverse lock-out. You would need a source that powers the solenoid (to open it), only at the time that you would want to go into reverse.

You could use a brake pedal mounted switch that is open when the pedal is up and closes when the pedal is pushed (like the starter switch on the clutch pedal .... or one like the regular brake switch, but functions opposite. In other waords, it is open when the pedal is up). Run an ignition source wire through this switch .... through the solenoid and then to ground. This will make the solenoid work as it is supposed to.

If you power it all the time, you might as well take it off. If you do want to just power it all the time, run an ignition source power wire to the solenoid and then to ground.

8a8mfh
04-16-2006, 03:53 PM
Yea the reverse lockout would be kind of a pain the way I was going to wire it to a toggle switch. Too much playing with crap just to get it to reverse.
It's not too bad anyways, I put about 150 miles on it today, driving along the beach and all :eek2: and some highway.

After about an hour it did throw a trouble code for the cruise circuit so you're right about that.

And I got a chance to stop at the 24/7 junkyard :secret2: , they have a 2001 Z28 there. Around here when the LS1 cars get to the junkyard they are pretty much shells. But this one had all the wires to the pedal switches and a axed up interior harness. I traced the blk/wht and gray wires to the ends.
The blk/white joins a few others and ends up at the ALDL, the gray goes to a plug that I don't know what it plugged into.

I also noted how the clutch pedal start switch wires goes to a connector thats not more than 8 inches from the switch. I know my car has that connector and I may see if the wires are the same ones that end up under the console. This would make it easier to wire it up rather than run new ones under the carpet.

But most important...I got the ashtray light holder yay.

I'm willing to bet that the reverse solenoid wire ends up as one of the wires that went to the A4 in the round plug. More specifically light green orignally going to the 1-2 shift solenoid and originating from pin position 44 on the vcm.

tici
04-16-2006, 05:57 PM
I connected the reverse solenoid to the stop lights so I can go in reverse only when I'm braking. It's pretty safe: the only "dangerous" situation is when you downshift 6th to 5th at high speed and you need to brake a little. At that point you are allowed to shift into reverse.

I installed a diode in series to the reverse solenoid to avoid sparks: the diode has to be installed as close as possible to the solenoid and has to have the correct polarity.
Without diode you have sparks in the stop lights relais: this could burn the contact.

8a8mfh
04-16-2006, 09:58 PM
Heres a picture of the plug I got out of a 2001 M6 car. Not sure where it plugs in or if it plugs in to anything on an A4 car. Some of the wires are the same color as the ones on an A4 shifter, and if I'm not mistaken the others go to the cags and reverse solenoids. And this is where that gray wire thats missing from my cruise control circuit goes.
It would be nice if the was a matching plug in the A4 cars that could be unplugged between this and the shifter and this plugged in for the M6 wiring.
Anyone know?
I can't find it if there is one but I didn't tear it apart that much.

And I also found out that the clutch start switch connects to wires behind the bulkhead right behind the kick panel under the steering column and to the left. The purple and green wires. This is where I cut them from on the M6 car.

8a8mfh
04-18-2006, 09:10 PM
Well I found out getting cruise control to work is going to require pinning a wire into plug 32 on the pcm. (how do you do that?)
In my post above is a picture of the plug I got out of an '01 M6 Z28. The car was a shell with just the interior wires in it balled up with a bunch of junk on top. Well the cruise control wire was still plugged into the pedal switch, I traced it down to the plug above, in the proccess I had to unwrap it from a bundle of wires about 1 1/2" in diameter. I can't see swapping this into my car as a whole harness.
But I did find out where the plug goes in my car, it's behind the passenger side kick panel as shown in the picture below. And of course all the wires are missing. The gray wire mainly, I might assume the other missing wires are for the other M6 specific solenoids, etc.
I guess my point is, forget swapping an M6 harness in unless you want to tear the whole interior apart. The best you might do is pin the right pcm plugs and run the wires seperate.
The diagram shows the gray wire. The picture shows the A4 plug (installed) and the M6 plug (cut off).

themack56
04-18-2006, 11:04 PM
first of all if you have those to wires that are suposed to go on the clutch pedal switch to get the car started conected all the time then its not going to work, you need to get the switch and have it connected like that, the switch works when you press the clutch down and it connects those to wires together, when you depress and they get disconeceted, when you have your cruise control on and you step on the brake it turns off, imaging having your brake down all the time and shutting down your cruise off all the time thats how your runnin your setup you have to have the cables disconected and only conected when your starting the car or shifting into gears, when you got your cruise on and you shift into gears your cruise has to turn off, ive been researching this for months now and thats how many of people tell me it works

themack56
04-18-2006, 11:09 PM
you dont have to tear your whole interior, i have the harness sitting next to me and only three connectios go into the interior and thats easy, the rest is just engine wiring which is easy cause all connectios are on surface level, and then theres another peice that runs to the tranny which has the reverser lights, vss reverslockout, everything, but since you dont want to go this way

8a8mfh
04-19-2006, 06:23 AM
I'm not arguing your point, you've been researching it and have been told how it works. Well I dug around in this 2001 Z28 that had an M6 from the factory. I have my clutch pedal switch wired up so the car starts with the pedal down only and it's wired to the factory location. The only thing I don't have is the gray wire for the clutch pedal anticipation, in the diagram I posted it goes to C 32 on the pcm, C32 on my pcm has no wire in it. Plus all these wires I got off the 2001 were wrapped up in a 1 1/2" bundle of wires that go from one side of the car to the other. That plug I show a picture of has all the wires I'm missing. But even if I got the whole harness I'd be tearing a lot of interior out to get the missing wires in my car. Do you have any pictures?

tici
04-19-2006, 06:30 AM
You don't need to install a new wire, you can install the cruise control switch on the clutch pedal in series to that one on the brake pedal.
I did it and it works.

8a8mfh
04-19-2006, 06:30 AM
That clutch pedal switch that activates with the pedal on the floor is only for the starter circuit. The switch on the top of the clutch pedal releases the cruise control, you want the cruise to release as soon as the pedal moves not when it hits the floor.

8a8mfh
04-19-2006, 06:33 AM
You don't need to install a new wire, you can install the cruise control switch on the clutch pedal in series to that one on the brake pedal.
I did it and it works.
I did that too, I got the factory wiring that comes with that harness that ties both clutch and brake pedal switches together.
Did you reflash your pcm to a from an A4 to M6?
I had my clutch pedal in with the automatic trans and the clutch pedal would disenagage cruise, now after the swap was complete and I reflashed an M6 program into my pcm it doesn't work like that.

themack56
04-19-2006, 09:10 AM
i wastn aware that it dosnt work once you reflash, im realy not concerned about cruise though i never use it but it would be nice to have like it came stick in the factory, just leave it the way it is and when you have time get an m6 wiring that goes insied and tear it up and put it together

M3EATER
04-19-2006, 04:07 PM
Ok ... I'll step into this ....

Once you reflash to a 6-sp PCM, you will have that pin #32 looking for the switch that mounts up at the clutch pedal ... the one that mounts like a brake pedal switch ....... NOT the starter switch at the base of the clutch pedal travel.

The most simplistic method would be to wire pin 32 to ground This would mimic the clutch switch being closed and the cruise will work (assuming the diagram that 8a8mfh supplied is correct for the switch that we're looking for).

I makes sense that an automatic PCM may not have a wire here.

If we do just run this pin to ground, the cruise will stay on if you push the clutch in. You would just have to be aware of this. All of the old BMWs worked like this. They have a brake cut-out but not a clutch cut-out. I never have any problems driving them.

M3EATER
04-19-2006, 04:12 PM
By the way ..... in looking at that diagram .... it looks like terminal 44 (C2) would be where we'd wire the Reverse Lock-out! Looks like power comes from the ENG SEN fuse ... through the solenoid .... then to term. 44 (C2).

Or

Just jumper off the wire right as it comes from the PCM ... and go to the solenoid ..... and supply power to the other side of the solenoid from any ignition source wire..

8a8mfh
04-19-2006, 05:41 PM
Thats what I've been trying to tell you guys, I got the wiring diagram from this thread IIRC and if it didn't come from here it came from the one in the automatic trans forum.

Like I said earlier Pin 32 goes to the gray wire on the clutch pedal position switch, and the black/wht wire from the switch joins to other wires of the same color deep in the bundle of wires, one of these being the blk/wht that goes to the ALDL connector.
And the reverse lockout solenoid goes to pin 44. These are the only two I care about, not concerned with cags.
So that would only be two wires to fish from the pcm, under the dash and to the rev solenoid and to clutch pedal switch.

Now..does anyone know how to remove that plastic pin and install a wire into the pcm harness?

8a8mfh
04-19-2006, 06:21 PM
In addition to the other stuff I found you could save time and trouble from running the clutch pedal neutral safety switch wiring under the carpet to the A4 shifter switch wire and instead wire it directly to the bulkhead that the red arrow points to. This is where I removed the factory M6 switch wiring plug from. The colors are the same. On the front you might notice two purple wires and wonder which one to wire it to, but on the back you will see they join together anyway.
M3EATER I hope you don't mind me using one of your pictures.

M3EATER
04-19-2006, 07:08 PM
I haven't looked at the PCM pins as of yet. I'm going out of town, if you don't have it cleared up by next week, email me & I'll take a look at it and see if I can find the proper Pins.

I'll also be dropping the trans again ...... to install some spacers under the slave cylinder. While it's down I'll test the reverse lock-out wiring .... if nobody else has it done by then.

No problem doctoring the pics!

8a8mfh
04-19-2006, 11:37 PM
Well I got it all working tonight. I didn't want cags so I didn't bother with that.

If you want cruise control to work you need to put a pin in C1 32 and run the wire to the proper M6 clutch anticipation switch, the wire is gray. The other wire on the switch is black/white and gets spliced onto the same color wire on the ALDL connector. This is how the M6 cars are wired from the factory.

To get the reverse solenoid to work put a pin in C2 44, run this wire to the solenoid and the other side of the solenoid to a pink wire on one of the O2 sensors, this is also the same circuit it's wired into from the factory.

It would be best if you got a few spare pins from a spare harness, but if you don't have access to one take out and use pins C1 17 and C1 18.

If you go to a junkyard and get some pins you can also get wire plug for the reverse solenoid, cags off a '94 to '97 S series truck ABS unit. It's the same plug.

C1 is the PCM connector with the translucent blue plastic piece that helps hold the pins in place.
C2 is Red. They both have the same numbers just one is red and one is blue.

C1 32 and C2 44 shouldn't have wires in them, if you find wires in yours make sure you're not looking at C2 32 and C1 44.

To get the plugs out remove the translucent piece and just bend the clip over very slightly and pull the wire out, put a little silicone over the hole.
To put a pin in I used a small nail to poke a hole in the rubber then stuck the pin in place and put the plastic piece back on.
I even used a torque wrench on the PCM connectors, it says on the gray covers to torque them 70 inch pounds +/- 14 inch pounds. Be sure you peel the rubber seals off the PCM and put them in the connector before re-installing them.

tici
04-20-2006, 02:10 AM
I did that too, I got the factory wiring that comes with that harness that ties both clutch and brake pedal switches together.
Did you reflash your pcm to a from an A4 to M6?
I had my clutch pedal in with the automatic trans and the clutch pedal would disenagage cruise, now after the swap was complete and I reflashed an M6 program into my pcm it doesn't work like that.

I loaded a M6 program using LS1Edit. The program has been modified by Carputing to match my calibration number or it won't work.

I don't understand the problem of the cruise control: there is only one wire that goes to the brake pedal, then to the clutch pedal. It's only a matter of opening a circuit: either it's the clutch or the brake pedal, the PCM doesn't care which pedal did open it. Look at the electric diagram: both swithches are in series.

To have cruise control working properly you need the other (big) clutch pedal switch working (start switch). Sure you can jump it so you don't need to press the clutch pedal to start the engine, but then you loose the cruise control.

8a8mfh
04-20-2006, 06:22 AM
It's a factory wiring diagram that I posted a picture of. I don't understand why they made M6 cars with a different means of cruise control deactivation. It clearly shows a clutch pedal anticipation switch and wiring thats only present in M6 cars.
I thought it was already there as there are more wires on the A4 brake pedal switch than a stock M6 car. And those wires worked even with the clutch pedal installed running the automatic transmission.
And AGAIN I DO HAVE THE BIG CLUTCH PEDAL SWITCH WIRED UP, it's not connected under the console anymore, it's connected to the factory M6 location and it works like it's supposed to. My cruise control works, and my reverse lockout works properly also.
In fact it works just as the owners manual says it does. It allows reverse engagement at speeds less than 5 mph. I can drive and push it over to reverse and right under 5 mph I can feel the solenoid energize and let go.
I'm pretty sure things are wired up to the proper locations.

themack56
04-20-2006, 08:59 AM
well last night i butchered my m6 harness and decide just to take off the pig tails and splice the a4 switch harness to the m6, and i also found out how to make my reverse lock out work, im jumpin a wire to an 02 sensor(to the pnk one to be exact then theres a light green and that one needs to be put in the pcm connectios cause the a4 dosnt have it, this is all so easy, im gonna try to find a way to fix the cruise so it can disengage when i press on the clutch this is probably gonna be hard, did you guys have any warning lights go off when you did the conversion?

themack56
04-20-2006, 09:02 AM
Well I got it all working tonight. I didn't want cags so I didn't bother with that.

If you want cruise control to work you need to put a pin in C1 32 and run the wire to the proper M6 clutch anticipation switch, the wire is gray. The other wire on the switch is black/white and gets spliced onto the same color wire on the ALDL connector. This is how the M6 cars are wired from the factory.

To get the reverse solenoid to work put a pin in C2 44, run this wire to the solenoid and the other side of the solenoid to a pink wire on one of the O2 sensors, this is also the same circuit it's wired into from the factory.

It would be best if you got a few spare pins from a spare harness, but if you don't have access to one take out and use pins C1 17 and C1 18.

If you go to a junkyard and get some pins you can also get wire plug for the reverse solenoid, cags off a '94 to '97 S series truck ABS unit. It's the same plug.

C1 is the PCM connector with the translucent blue plastic piece that helps hold the pins in place.
C2 is Red. They both have the same numbers just one is red and one is blue.

C1 32 and C2 44 shouldn't have wires in them, if you find wires in yours make sure you're not looking at C2 32 and C1 44.

To get the plugs out remove the translucent piece and just bend the clip over very slightly and pull the wire out, put a little silicone over the hole.
To put a pin in I used a small nail to poke a hole in the rubber then stuck the pin in place and put the plastic piece back on.
I even used a torque wrench on the PCM connectors, it says on the gray covers to torque them 70 inch pounds +/- 14 inch pounds. Be sure you peel the rubber seals off the PCM and put them in the connector before re-installing them.


your information is correct for you year of car, since i have a 98, its harder cause 98 wiring was different then 99 and up, so i have to learn as i go.

8a8mfh
04-20-2006, 05:34 PM
did you guys have any warning lights go off when you did the conversion
I had 801 reverse inhibit control circuit malfuntion, 803 cags solinoid circuit malfunction, and after and hour of driving 704 clutch switch circuit malfunction.
This was before I installed the reverse solenoid and clutch pedal wiring to the PCM.

Deeavi
04-20-2006, 08:02 PM
I am trying to finish mine and have a question about the wires on the steering column. There are two thin flat connectors and only one plug that looks like it fits. One conector is attached to the column and the other is loose. I should have marked them, but didn't.

Any thoughts?

Deeavi
04-21-2006, 01:25 PM
I am trying to finish mine and have a question about the wires on the steering column. There are two thin flat connectors and only one plug that looks like it fits. One conector is attached to the column and the other is loose. I should have marked them, but didn't.

Any thoughts?

Never mind! I found it! My son had tucked the wire up out of the way.

8a8mfh
04-21-2006, 06:21 PM
A few other things I'd like to mention.
Earlier in this thread a few people said the bottom clutch switch needs to be connected to a switch and not tied together in order for cruise control to work. Not true. The purple and green wires from that switch have nothing to do with the cruise control system.
The switch on top of the pedal is what cruise is wired into. Think about it, you want cruise to disengage as soon as you hit the pedal, not when the pedal reaches the floor. Thats why it's call a clutch pedal anticipation switch, it anticipates the clutch pedal moving.
As for the bottom clutch pedal switch wire it right into the bulkhead shown here. (http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=62277) It's about 6" away from the switch and you don't have to pull wires under the carpet.

Deeavi
04-24-2006, 01:16 PM
My car is working great except for one issue, and I was wondering if anyone else has had the problem after conversion to the t56. My idle properties are out of wack! I have played with them some and it is better, but still not right!

8a8mfh
04-24-2006, 05:40 PM
Did you reprogram the PCM?
You need to put an M6 program in it. There are a lot of differences especially with timing.

Deeavi
04-24-2006, 06:31 PM
Did you reprogram the PCM?
You need to put an M6 program in it. There are a lot of differences especially with timing.

Yes I put in an M6 program, but I copied and pasted my tune into that program

FASTERthanYOU
04-29-2006, 11:36 AM
If anyone wants to do a M6 to A4 swap, i have an A4 and want to swap to an M6.
We could just swap parts or work out some other deal. Let me know

8a8mfh
04-29-2006, 04:45 PM
Yes I put in an M6 program, but I copied and pasted my tune into that program

I missed this post somehow, sorry.

What I did was start over with a stock HPTuners bin file for the same car but with an M6.

I changed the gear ratio and VIN, and raised the cags temp to 250*. And a few minor unrelated things.

I'm not sure what your tuning with but if you can compare an A4 tune to an M6 there are some important differences. A lot in timing and some in idle.

I would start over with a untouched M6 tune.

pekkaz
04-29-2006, 11:58 PM
Has anyone tried wiring it up to 44 on the computer (VCM)?
I'm going to use HPTuners when I do the swap. Does this turn some of the outputs to the A4 into outputs for the M6?

I seen a diagram somewhere that showed 44 going to the 2-3 shift solenoid for the A4 and the reverse solenoid for the M6. Anyone try this.

I'd rather wire it up close to factory as possible. I may just try it unenergized and if it gets old wire it up to the brake switch or just a toggle.




Did you try this ?

Which of the 2 pins is btw supposed to go to ground from the reverse lock out solenoid ? It seems the PCM grounds pin ( I'd remember 42 for a '98 ) when it disengages lock. Does the actual powering of the solenoid have to go through relay or can the pcm sink that kind of current ? .. or is it significant amount ?

8a8mfh
04-30-2006, 06:40 AM
Did you try this ?

Which of the 2 pins is btw supposed to go to ground from the reverse lock out solenoid ? It seems the PCM grounds pin ( I'd remember 42 for a '98 ) when it disengages lock. Does the actual powering of the solenoid have to go through relay or can the pcm sink that kind of current ? .. or is it significant amount ?


Did I try it? You must have skipped a few pages.
I used GM wiring schematics.

Well I got it all working tonight. I didn't want cags so I didn't bother with that.

If you want cruise control to work you need to put a pin in C1 32 and run the wire to the proper M6 clutch anticipation switch, the wire is gray. The other wire on the switch is black/white and gets spliced onto the same color wire on the ALDL connector. This is how the M6 cars are wired from the factory.

To get the reverse solenoid to work put a pin in C2 44, run this wire to the solenoid and the other side of the solenoid to a pink wire on one of the O2 sensors, this is also the same circuit it's wired into from the factory.

It would be best if you got a few spare pins from a spare harness, but if you don't have access to one take out and use pins C1 17 and C1 18.

If you go to a junkyard and get some pins you can also get wire plug for the reverse solenoid, cags off a '94 to '97 S series truck ABS unit. It's the same plug.

C1 is the PCM connector with the translucent blue plastic piece that helps hold the pins in place.
C2 is Red. They both have the same numbers just one is red and one is blue.

C1 32 and C2 44 shouldn't have wires in them, if you find wires in yours make sure you're not looking at C2 32 and C1 44.

To get the plugs out remove the translucent piece and just bend the clip over very slightly and pull the wire out, put a little silicone over the hole.
To put a pin in I used a small nail to poke a hole in the rubber then stuck the pin in place and put the plastic piece back on.
I even used a torque wrench on the PCM connectors, it says on the gray covers to torque them 70 inch pounds +/- 14 inch pounds. Be sure you peel the rubber seals off the PCM and put them in the connector before re-installing them.

pekkaz
04-30-2006, 11:43 AM
Ok thanks, I'll try that. I believe the pin is 42 for a '98.

themack56
04-30-2006, 12:30 PM
for a 98 the pin is 42 pin on the pcm and the pink one goes spliced onto the pink o2 sensor wire

TA BOY
05-01-2006, 01:29 PM
whats the different in the harness 98 and 99- above?

themack56
05-01-2006, 07:32 PM
i dont realy know but i do know they are different they have different pcms to

Deeavi
05-03-2006, 06:23 PM
I bough the White Hurst shift ball with the momentary switch built in. I wired the reverse lockout to the secondary cigarette lightter through the switch and, Voila! Looks and works great. The way it should be!

TA BOY
05-05-2006, 09:39 AM
Dam Thats A Good Idea?

69FB_LS1
05-05-2006, 02:10 PM
First of all, thanks to everyone that has posted to this thread, it has been very helpful.

Here's my crack at it: I transplanted a 2001 LS1 and M6 into a '69 firebird last year. The reverse lockout has finally worked my nerves. So, I connected ignition power to one leg of the solenoid and the other leg to the Reverse Lockout pin on the PCM.

That's it! When the car is below 5mph, the solenoid actuates.

Now, this lead me to question the CPP (Clutch Pedal Position) input to the PCM. I don't have one, so, according to the PCM, it would look like the clutch is "in" all the time. For further testing, I tried it in my bone stock '05 GTO. It doesn't care about the CPP either. The solenoid is actuated as long as the car is <5mph.

8a8mfh
05-05-2006, 05:23 PM
First of all, thanks to everyone that has posted to this thread, it has been very helpful.

Here's my crack at it: I transplanted a 2001 LS1 and M6 into a '69 firebird last year. The reverse lockout has finally worked my nerves. So, I connected ignition power to one leg of the solenoid and the other leg to the Reverse Lockout pin on the PCM.

That's it! When the car is below 5mph, the solenoid actuates.

Now, this lead me to question the CPP (Clutch Pedal Position) input to the PCM. I don't have one, so, according to the PCM, it would look like the clutch is "in" all the time. For further testing, I tried it in my bone stock '05 GTO. It doesn't care about the CPP either. The solenoid is actuated as long as the car is <5mph.

The CPP switch is for cruise control, it senses when the pedal is on the way down. It has nothing to do with neutral safety as said earlier in this thread.
I did get a check engine light for the CPP switch (AKA clutch anticipation switch). The cruise didn't work either so I added that pin while adding the reverse solenoid pin.
Now cruise works and it puts out no codes.

MrPontiac83
05-06-2006, 09:20 PM
Hey everyone, I'm new to the forum.

For a while now I've been looking for a '98-'02 Trans Am with a manual transmission. I've found that they are few and far between for the amount of money I am willing to spend and for the mileage on the car. Infact I find many more of these cars available with automatic transmissions. I was considering buying a Trans Am with an automatic transmission and then later on down the road swapping that tranny out with a manual.

I'd just like some suggestions and different perspectives on that. Thanks

themack56
05-06-2006, 09:39 PM
clutch wont engage, i just got finished convertion my a4 to an m6, and my clutch wont work, its in there right andi bleed the hydraulics but when its in gear and i let go of clutch it dosnt turn off and i dont step on the gas,when i have it in first i try to go to second it starts to grind and the clutch dosnt engage, my i think it has to be the hydraulics



now when i turn on the car and i try to put into first it wont let me unless i realy jam it in, and when it does go in it grinds then it turns off right away when i put it in first, this is only supposed to hapen if the clutch isnt engaged right?

8a8mfh
05-13-2006, 12:02 PM
I've decided to install a diode in the reverse lockout circuit. The solenoid created a huge arc when power is disconnected and this happens in the PCM. It could damage it. Factory wiring diagrams show a diode so I put one in. It's Radioshack part# 1N4001, two for $0.63.

Here is some information on why it needs a diode.
Surge Suppression Explained
Inductive kick (surge) occurs any time an electrically generated field collapses. A voltage, opposite in polarity to the original applied voltage is generated by the collapsing magnetic field.

A good example of this is in an automobile ignition system. When the breaker points open, the current flowing to the ignition coil is shut off and the magnetic field built up in the coil collapses. The resulting inductive kick voltage is high enough to jump the gap at the spark plug.

The same effect also happens whenever solenoid used on a hydraulic valve is shut off. The voltage surge can reach several hundred volts which will arc across the switch contacts and quickly destroy them. Switch life can be reduced to one-tenth of normal.

The solution is to add a diode in parallel across the solenoid terminals (See Fig.1). A diode acts as a one-way valve for electricity. In normal operation, the electric current can't flow through the diode, so it flows through the solenoid coil. When the operator releases the switch, the current is shut off to the solenoid and the inductive kick flows backwards through the diode rather than through the switch contacts, bleeding off the high voltage spike.

Installation Tips
Diodes should be installed as close as possible to the solenoid. Soldering a diode directly across the 2 solenoid terminals is ideal.

Use a diode with a voltage rating of at least 10 times the circuit voltage and a current rating at least as big as the current flowing through the solenoid. In practice, diodes rates at 200 volts and 1 amp are readily available for a few cents and are appropriate for most applications.

Diodes have a strip on one end of the case. On equipment wired with negative grounds, the end with the stripe should be installed on the most positive side of the solenoid. (This is usually the side that has the wire from the switch.) (See Fig. 1)

Frostbite
05-14-2006, 02:41 PM
Does anyone know which wires to tap into to allow the reverse lockout to work?

8a8mfh
05-14-2006, 06:11 PM
Does anyone know which wires to tap into to allow the reverse lockout to work?

Post #213 in this thread has the info. This is for a '99 and up only.
To get the reverse solenoid to work put a pin in C2 44, run this wire to the solenoid and the other side of the solenoid to a pink wire on one of the O2 sensors, this is also the same circuit it's wired into from the factory.
and read a few posts back, install a diode between the two solenoid terminals.

autodad
05-17-2006, 03:25 AM
If anyone wants to do a M6 to A4 swap, i have an A4 and want to swap to an M6.
We could just swap parts or work out some other deal. Let me know


haha, you would'nt be in fl would you?

TA BOY
05-17-2006, 09:43 PM
How Do U Get The Reverse Lockout To Work In A 98 Ta That Still Has The A4 Harness?

pekkaz
05-17-2006, 11:24 PM
It's basically same thing as other years excpept reverse lock out is pin 42 of the red connector. I moved red wire from pin 61 to 42. It's A4 transmission range signal C, one of the wires going to the round ( 20pin?) A4 plug.

TA BOY
05-18-2006, 04:28 PM
Sorry For Beeing A Dummy, How Could I Tell Which One Is Pin 42 ?

pekkaz
05-18-2006, 10:30 PM
They are numbered :) It's in the PCM casting.

BigJoeBob1
05-22-2006, 06:51 PM
I just completed an M6 swap in my 2000 WS6 and it went a lot smoother than expected. I bought a swap kit from Lambert's salvage and $2K and did the swap at home with some help from a couple buddies. My only mistake was I didn't replace the slave when I was in there. Everything works great however. I think $5 grand to swap was a little much was a little much to tell people that are thinking about it.

autodad
05-22-2006, 07:02 PM
I just completed an M6 swap in my 2000 WS6 and it went a lot smoother than expected. I bought a swap kit from Lambert's salvage and $2K and did the swap at home with some help from a couple buddies. My only mistake was I didn't replace the slave when I was in there. Everything works great however. I think $5 grand to swap was a little much was a little much to tell people that are thinking about it.


wow that's the way to go, do you have any contact info for lamberts salvage? If it is against the rules to post there info could you pm it to me or hit me up on aim stevesrt4 ....thanks, steve.

camaroguy26
06-12-2006, 05:26 PM
I finally got my swap kit and it has all the major components except the clutch switches which won't cost me much at all. Instead of buying the pigtails I will probably buy the connectors and make my own. I have a new PCM coming with a custom tune in it and will be ready to plug right in. Hopefully it has all the pins I need. But you say for a 98 the Reverse Lock is from Pin 42. But what is it for the clutch anticipation switch? I will probably end up wiring it in series with the one on the brake however I would still like to know. And I'm confused why there are 3 switches on the clutch. I know one is the clutch safety switch, and another the anticipation switch, what is the third used for?

8a8mfh
06-14-2006, 05:27 PM
I finally got my swap kit and it has all the major components except the clutch switches which won't cost me much at all. Instead of buying the pigtails I will probably buy the connectors and make my own. I have a new PCM coming with a custom tune in it and will be ready to plug right in. Hopefully it has all the pins I need. But you say for a 98 the Reverse Lock is from Pin 42. But what is it for the clutch anticipation switch? I will probably end up wiring it in series with the one on the brake however I would still like to know. And I'm confused why there are 3 switches on the clutch. I know one is the clutch safety switch, and another the anticipation switch, what is the third used for?


I don't know all the details about the '98's but in all years the pins (that you might need to add) are in the harness not the PCM.
I forgot all I learned about the switches, but I know for a fact that one of the switches on the clutch is already wired in series with the switch on the brake pedal. My brake pedal switch has for wires going to it, assuming two for the brake lights and two for the circuit that runs in series with the clutch anticipation switch so either will shut cruise control off.