LSUxBlake

iTrader: (3)

I had a problem with my belt walking a few notches over at high RPM's, I even threw it once. My tensioner wasn't bad, it had a lot of spring, it just seemed like it couldn't keep up past 6500 RPM. I picked up one of Thunder's tensioners on the way home from work and the problem is fixed for good. Really good quality piece, lets you get the belt as tight as you'd ever want it. No more throwing belts

smurfman

iTrader: (3)

Did you have any problems with the tensioner squeeling at all?
Mine does, but its very random...kinda wierd I think, very inconsistent.

LSUxBlake

iTrader: (3)

Mine did squeak occasionally, very rarely though, the big problem was just high rpm runs. Yesterday my dad was looking at my motor and noticed the belt was half off the pulleys, it had tracked 2 ribs over. Kinda scary, but I put it back on drove it gentle till today when I got the other tensioner. I took it out and pushed it real hard after the install and everything holds great.

WILWAXU

iTrader: (6)

If it's squealing, you may need a new pulley.

I went over kill. I run the Thunder(Katech) tensioner and the deep groove "Larry" pulley.

86 IROC

iTrader: (14)

So I could possibly fix the squealing by going to a local parts store and buying a replacement pulley? I thought that because I have an UD crank pulley that I'd need a new tensioner.

My belts didn't squeal until after a few high RPM blasts right after the pulley install. I have not had any problems w/ throwing belts though. I've been doing searches trying to find the correct fix.

Another_User

The adjustable tensioner rocks. But, just because you can adjust the hell out of it, DON'T. Unless you want replace everything connected to that belt because the bearings burned up...then it's cool. The recommended tension can be set with a torque wrench, and is perfect. A lot easier than measuring belt deflection too.

WILWAXU

iTrader: (6)

Like Another_User said. Be careful. It is possible to tighten the belt too much and cause problems.

The pulley uses a seal bearing. If that bearing is damage it could make noise.

ninobrn99

iTrader: (8)

hey LSUxBlake not trying to steal your thread, but man im scared to install pullies cause of all the problems ive read about. lets say im about to install the slps with the 25% crank and the o/d alt. along with a new tensioner. What all needs to be done? I mean torque #'s for bolts..size of belts and what to double check

Another_User

I went with the March pulley. Fluid filled...I'd say it has a better chance of not generating any negative harmonics. They come with instructions...ignore them. You will need a longer than stock bolt to get the pulley started. If you search the threads you can find the part...there is somebody online you can buy it from. Then you need to use the stock bolt, torque it down to like 250 ft-lbs. It doesn't really matter either...you will never get it that tight. Tighten it until all your pulley line up properly. Then re-tighten with the new bolt....you can look up that torque somewhere on here too. The new adjustable tensioner comes with all the torque specs, including the torque spec to pull the tensioner to with the belt on (I think i was 25 ft-lbs) and you are done. I think it was worth the trouble. But it is pricey to do it all at one time.

You don't need the alternator pulley. All it does is overdrive your alternator...it is really only good if you run a high-powered stereo. I have a cam, so my idle is raised. I get the same, if not more charging power now. No problems.

BigDaddyZ28

This is exactly what I was concerned about... Messing up stuff by getting it too tight. Could you give us any tips on how you set your belt tention with the torque wrench? It sounds like you got this stuff figured out!
Thanks...

Another_User

It's really easy. It tells you the torque setting...I would know exactly if I could find my instructions...they are laying around somewhere. It has a square notch for the torque wrench on the adjuster. Set the torque wrench, put the belt on, and attach the torque wrench and pull towards the passenger side of the car until the torque wrench clicks. The tricky part here is that you either have to:
1) tighten the adjuster bolt with your other hand until it is very snug
2) have a friend adjust it until it is very snug
Then set your torque wrench to tighten the adjuster bolt (which will not have moved if you snugged it right) to the torque setting they specify and tighten it. The whole thing took me about 20 minutes by myself. It does NOT come with a new tensioner pulley, which i recommend you buy. It was like $15 at Advance Auto parts.

LSUxBlake

iTrader: (3)

Actually, I had a friend install my ASP yesterday. I had him do it because he's very experienced in the matter and I didnt want it flying off. The sequence with the new bolt goes 36 ft lbs, then mark the pulley at 12 o clock, and turn it an additional 120 degrees (to around 4:35). It's hard as hell to hit those last 30 degrees or so, but you can get it.

Another_User

I've heard of people doing it that way before, but I have never seen a good write up on doing the crank pulley that way. You really have to watch and make sure it does on all the way, because 36 ft-lbs isn't alot when you are driving that darn pulley on. I think we got it up to like 145 ft-lbs and I said hell with it, it lines up. I would imagine you do the first run with the old bolt because the bolt must get weakened with all that cranking on it. Then we took out the old bolt, put the new one in and cranked to the torque specified for the last pass in the instructions.

I am pretty sure the directions call for thread locker on the tensioner pulley. I forget on the crank pulley...it has been a little while.

LSUxBlake

iTrader: (3)

I was actually referring to torquing the new bolt down to 36lbs + 120 degrees. We torqued the pulley on with the old one to 245 ft lbs and then pulled the old one out first.

Another_User

Aha. I don't think we did the extra degrees...whichever instructions I followed at the time didn't call for it. And we threadlocked it anyways...I have seen that procedure somewhere before though, and there is definitely nothing wrong with it.