Currently have a 224/224, but want bigger! Sorry another cam thread.
#1
Currently have a 224/224, but want bigger! Sorry another cam thread.
I have Absolute Speed stage 5.3 stage 2 heads. I have a 224/224 cam with a 114. I have to get the car retuned because the PCM is bad, so I figured I might as well throw in a bigger cam since it is getting retuned. I dont have to worry about emissions. I just want something that will be drivable. The 224/224 is very drivable, but I can use a little more. I have a 4000 stall. so I was thinking of something around a 232/236, or a 231/237 with a 112? I want it to sound a little meaner at idle than it does now, so I was thinking a 112 if the tuners can get it to idle properly. What do you guys think of my options? Any advice? I have used the search function, but wanted to hear some more opinions. thanks alot.
JP
JP
#2
SN95 Director
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it depends on where your looking for more power and what your applicatin is. the 231/237 will see most of its gains from 5k+ over your 224. who's grind are you looking @ for the 232/236, the R1?
if it were me i'd keep the 224, retune, and drop the idle if you want lope.
if it were me i'd keep the 224, retune, and drop the idle if you want lope.
#3
I have to kinda agree with jpr. Those 224's are nothing to sneeze at. If it was my money and time, before I do another cam change, looking at your current setup, I'd rethink the exhaust. I believe you have enough mods to justify Long Tube Headers with a free flowing Cat/Back or a Cutout.
I know these mods are minor but I dont see them in your sig, Lid, Pulley or a ported Throttle Body.
I'd do LongTubes first then get a tune.
I know these mods are minor but I dont see them in your sig, Lid, Pulley or a ported Throttle Body.
I'd do LongTubes first then get a tune.
#5
TECH Senior Member
Originally Posted by vAN5150
I have to kinda agree with jpr. Those 224's are nothing to sneeze at. If it was my money and time, before I do another cam change, looking at your current setup, I'd rethink the exhaust. I believe you have enough mods to justify Long Tube Headers with a free flowing Cat/Back or a Cutout.
I know these mods are minor but I dont see them in your sig, Lid, Pulley or a ported Throttle Body.
I'd do LongTubes first then get a tune.
I know these mods are minor but I dont see them in your sig, Lid, Pulley or a ported Throttle Body.
I'd do LongTubes first then get a tune.
#7
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I am thinking of changing my TR224 cam as well. You and I have just about the same mods.
I have just about settled on a 230/232 .592/.575.
John
I have just about settled on a 230/232 .592/.575.
John
Last edited by JNorris; 08-22-2004 at 09:08 AM.
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#8
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My .02 cents FWIW:
Take it from me--I didn't pick up much HP going from my 224/224 .581/.581 112 to my 228/232 cam. And the sound of the two are pretty close. I would say to dump the flowmaster catback (if it is a crossflow 80 series) and either put a cutout on. Also, in my opinion I would put on some decent long tubes (which I believe you'll pick up around the same hp by switching to Lts as compared to switching cams).
Anyway good luck with whatever you decide to do
Take it from me--I didn't pick up much HP going from my 224/224 .581/.581 112 to my 228/232 cam. And the sound of the two are pretty close. I would say to dump the flowmaster catback (if it is a crossflow 80 series) and either put a cutout on. Also, in my opinion I would put on some decent long tubes (which I believe you'll pick up around the same hp by switching to Lts as compared to switching cams).
Anyway good luck with whatever you decide to do
Last edited by Hellion; 08-21-2004 at 01:48 PM.
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I went from a 224/228 to a G5X3 and picked up 30 RWHP and 21 RWTQ, just a cam swap, NOTHING else. Both tuned dyno runs, and the X3 setup now STILL has more to get out of it, I had 3+ degrees on knock on the dyno runs and it was hot. More #'s to come in winter
But you would have to check on the heads to see if they are ok with the X3, call Lou and talk to him about it, they use AS heads with these cams, so you may be ok, depending on how much was milled, etc. PTV is an issue with anything other than stock heads.
But you would have to check on the heads to see if they are ok with the X3, call Lou and talk to him about it, they use AS heads with these cams, so you may be ok, depending on how much was milled, etc. PTV is an issue with anything other than stock heads.
#11
Thanks for all the replys. I do plan on changing the exaust, all of it actually, so I am just holding off until I have enough money. I want long tube headers, and a true dual exaust out the back. That would cost me around $1500, so I will just hold up until later . I thought about getting just some long tubes and throwing them on, but then I would also have to buy a off road y pipe for the headers, which I will end up getting rid of anyways in the future. I do have the basic mods, like a lid, and ported TB, cut-outs, I just didn't think they need to be listed, but I guess I should list them in my sig. I dont have a pulley, which I do plan on buying soon. The ASP one is the one that most recommend, right? So most of you guys think I should just stay with the 224/224? I kind of realy want more cam, because with that SS4000 the car doesn't pull as well up top as it used to.
#12
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Originally Posted by Jimmy P
So most of you guys think I should just stay with the 224/224? I kind of realy want more cam, because with that SS4000 the car doesn't pull as well up top as it used to.
If so you could retard it 4 degrees and move the powerband uo by 200>300 rpm and get a few more ponies at peak too.
#13
Originally Posted by Jimmy P
I want long tube headers, and a true dual exaust out the back. That would cost me around $1500, so I will just hold up until later .
I went with Jet Hot LT's and Lanes Duals and that only cost me around 1g. FYI. You could have duals done cheaper if they were custom.
#14
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I have the same cam and gave Jay a call since he did my heads. He going to set me up with a custom grind 230/236 .575/.575 on a 114 for idle. I would give him a call and have him set you up with a custom grind. Since he did the heads. Though him you will probibly see the most gains.
#15
I am thinking of going withPacesetter coated LT's($400), and Speed Incs inhouse true duals that cost 1,199.99 installed. I am prety sure they are stainless steel. I would go with Lanes since they are more than half the cost, but I dont think they are stainless steel, are they? These Chicago winters can be hard on exaust systems that aren't stainless.
#16
No Lanes Duals arent stainless and are just painted so they would rust.
1200 seems alot even for stainless, Im guesssing that is taking them out the back also though? If your just running Pacesetters that are coated though, you might want to looking into just coating duals. Still save you close to $500. If you want them out the back also though, them it might just be easiest to go with what your looking at though.
1200 seems alot even for stainless, Im guesssing that is taking them out the back also though? If your just running Pacesetters that are coated though, you might want to looking into just coating duals. Still save you close to $500. If you want them out the back also though, them it might just be easiest to go with what your looking at though.