SAINT WS6

Got my car finished last week with the full G5X-2 package. All I can say is this thing ROCKS! Idle is not near as bad as I would have thought. There is some shake to it, but it doesn't FEEL like you would expect a huge cam like this one to. Idle is set at about 1300, but it could probably be set a little bit lower and not have any problems dying die. No AC problems either. Power is awesome, it's everywhere. I raced a H/C M6 on the highway along with some other people and they didn't stand a much of a chance <img border="0" alt="[judgement]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_judge.gif" /> . My dyno is posted below. Current mods are G5X-2 cam, LG S2 heads, upgraded to 2002 coil packs and valve covers, lid, filter, LS6 intake, grotts, random tech cats, shitty grot y-pipe, cutout, borla, Vig 3600, HD 4L60-E, stock 10-bolt(starting to fail) with 3.23 gearing, and tons of other appearance/suspension/braking/etc. stuff. This dyno run was made with NO ported TB, NO pullies, and through cats and that shitty y-pipe. I'm stoked!! Guessing I could have gotten near 440 rwhp with true duals, a ported TB, and some pullies. LG also recommends that you do 30# injectors(i didn't), but I will be upgrading to bigger ones for a planned direct port setup in the future. The specs on the cam, in case no one has read them yet are 232/240 .595/.609 112lsa. I hope to have sound clips and/or videos soon. Here's the graph:
<img src="http://home.earthlink.net/~stoney69/Photo.JPG" alt=" - " />

<small>[ March 29, 2003, 03:37 PM: Message edited by: SAINT WS6 ]</small>

98TAauto

iTrader: (2)

i misseed the part where you got the heads and glanced at the dyno sheet and was about to say HOLY SH*T <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
HAHAAH, congrats on the numbers man! No doubt she has more in her through open exhaust! <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

A4 power <img border="0" alt="[chug]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_chug.gif" />

kent

Good power with the new setup. I wonder what the HP would be with LS6 heads? I am planning to get this cam too. I am glad you are please with the cam/head system. The power rocks. Cheers. <img border="0" alt="[burn out]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_burnout.gif" />

JF WS6

Saint, are those #'s with the converter locked?

<small>[ March 29, 2003, 01:13 PM: Message edited by: JF WS6 ]</small>

Y2K2LS1

1300 rpm?? WTF? Thats nuts, I bet you gotta hold the brake hard at every light. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

JF WS6

Yeah, 1300 rpms for an idle is a bit crazy. I'd definately have them lower it to like 950 or so if you can get away with it.

Got Me SOM

iTrader: (2)

looks great, i'm gonna do the same combo to my car but that high idle concerns me.

Can it be lowered or will it stall?

SAINT WS6

kent - prolly see about 10hp more with LS6 heads. Not worth the extra $1050 to me.

SSBoy, Got Me SOM - Yup, 1300 rpm. that or around 1250. 900 rpms might be a little low for an automatic but for a manual that would idle just fine. I'm going to play with it some more when I get back from Spring term.

Y2K2LS1 - Brake wise I do have to hold it a little more than usual at a stop light, but not a big difference.

JF WS6 - The #'s were with the converter locked.

Also, car starts right up off a cold start. It did die once when I put it in reverse, but it fired right back up. The 1250 idle is really not that bad, it does get a little loud sometimes, but that's how I like it <img border="0" alt="[evil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" /> . I'm sure doing an 1100 or so would still be ok.

Little more info - The valvetrain is Manley 2.02 and 1.60 valves, Tit. retainers, Tit. shims, bronze guides, Manley double springs, CM pushrods. Also want to give praise to LG Motorsports for doing an awesome job!!! I had some problems early with the computer and transmission and they took care of everything free of charge. I've been dealing with them for the past 5 years and have nothing but praise for everything they do. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" /> to LG!!

Fenris Ulf

Looks like you have a little valvetrain issues at 6400...

Damian

iTrader: (89)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Fenris Ulf:
<strong> Looks like you have a little valvetrain issues at 6400... </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I was just about to say that. Whats up with the dip?

1300 rpm idle? That's insane <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />
Your stop N go gas mileage is going to go to absolute crap unless you lower that some. Try to get away with 950-1000 or so. 1300 is high..

Also, why did they "upgrade" the coil packs. There isn't any difference as far as I know. Just curious....


Josh

SAINT WS6

Fenris - I'm going to take a look when I get back from school about the dip. Need to check the other graphs too, I think this one was the only one with the dip.

Damian - Yeah, like I said I'm going to lower it when I get home from school. I'm sure it would run just fine at around 1000-1100 or so. 950 might be pushing it though.

deviate42

iTrader: (2)

good #'s <img border="0" alt="[evil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" />

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

Hurry up and get that thing to a track <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

Louis

iTrader: (7)

His tach is off, so it looks like 1300. It has an Ingear Idle of 1100. with the AC on, same with cold starts.

Its not as high as you might think <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

SAINT WS6

There any way to correct the tach louis?

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

With 232/236 114, I idle at 1000 rpm and it is pretty smooth. The wife has driven the car and not complained. But at that idle, even with a YTP 4200, the car wants to pull coming up to red lights etc. 1300 must suck in town, not to mention your gas mileage will drop to single digits in stop and go traffic. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_images/icons/tongue.gif" />

Try 1000 - 1100 max. In Edit, adjust your IAC settings up just a bit and add a couple degrees of timing and it should work. Expect some cam surge if you lock-up at low rpms (e.g 1300) but I'll bet you can get the idle down to 1050 and have it run well within daily driver limits.

Hard core guys can run 975 rpm. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />

Just realize Louis said it was set for 1100. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Embarrassed]" src="gr_emb.gif" /> Does ATAP confirm that?

<small>[ March 29, 2003, 09:27 PM: Message edited by: Ragtop 99 ]</small>

SAINT WS6

I'm not at home with the car(I'm at school) but I'll have my dad run autotap and see if he can confirm the 1100 idle.

SSBoy

Holy Cow, a 1300 RPM idle? How loud does that car sound at a stoplight?

Can the Cam idle safely at 900 rpms?

CW 99 Z

It wouldnt suprise me if you your tach was off. My 99 a4 tach says 350 rpm at idle(no cam) I know that cant be right

SPANKY LS1

iTrader: (24)

What size valves do the heads have?On their website, it says the S2 heads have 2.02 and 1.60 valves, is that what yours have? And have they been milled any? TIA, Shawn