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Need some help , got rust on the cylindar walls

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Old 09-03-2004, 06:35 PM
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Default Need some help , got rust on the cylindar walls

hey guys
i left the intake manifold off the engine and ended up with water running down the valves into the cylindars which rusted. I dont have a clue what i should do ? I will probally have to have it bored . I also was wandering how much more would like a semi built internals for it would be so i could use a little more spray. like what kind of combinations would be good to do the rebuild with? Any help would be a life save . i also have included a pic
Old 09-03-2004, 07:49 PM
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Wheres the picture?And how bad is the rust and how long was the water in there?
Old 09-03-2004, 11:34 PM
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well it wont let me load the picture it says its too big . so .... its not like pitted or anything . i guess ill just take it to a machine shop and see what they say.

any suggestions on what configuration i should get the crank,pistons,rods? something maybe forged? i dont know?
Old 09-03-2004, 11:53 PM
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HOW LONG WAS THE WATER IN THE MOTOR?????? if its not to bad just mic it if its in spec put a light hone on it install new rings and GET R DONE
Old 09-04-2004, 12:04 AM
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well, there's no included pic...and you can't really build a 'semi-built' motor, really...i suppose you could just put forged pistons in there, w/o forged rods or anything...but whats the point? if you are gonna use more then a 200 shot, just forge the whole damn thing.....or else you may be looking at a pretty car with a paperweight in the engine bay.
Old 09-04-2004, 02:19 AM
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ok
how long was the water in the cylindars about a week or 2. Im gonna take it to a machine shop ask whats up and go from their . i was just wondering is their any sort of combination that while im at it i can use thats a pretty good nitrous set up . I m talking about something like stock crank ,forged rods , arp rod bolts . That sort of thing . Any help would be nice thanks
Old 09-04-2004, 02:48 AM
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harlan(y2khawk) is still using his stock crank....he's well over 550rwhp.....maybe past 600??? dunno. some people get lucky with the stock crank and theirs last a long time....others snap it quick. most forge the rest of the motor off the bat tho. most also tend to use arp bolts where ever possible. just common practice. its insurance against the paperweight situation i mentioned earlier. nitrous is good at making paperweights. forged components are good at preventing that. i think if you're going to run say a 200 shot, you could run diamond pistons, eagle rods, with the stock cranks, or the eagle crank. if you DO have to get her honed, you might as well stroke her. get her done .005 over and get the eagle crank. then u can go for a forged stroker.....all in one. spray that and you're lookin at some serious power.
Old 09-04-2004, 03:00 AM
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We have had excellent luck with our Cheap Street 347ci Shortblock, and that runs a stock crank, Eagle H-Beams, and Diamond Pistons.

Check your PM's for more info
Old 09-04-2004, 03:17 AM
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hey nick what is the price on your cheap street

im trying to get away with spending as little as possible since this was an un expected problem

cyphur_traq thanks a lot you answered my question
Old 09-04-2004, 05:16 AM
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Nick,
"We have had excellent luck "
I think luck has little to do with it
You guys just kick butt preparing those blocks.
Old 09-04-2004, 07:35 AM
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Our APE Cheap Street 347ci Shortblock runs $2799.99 plus core charge of $800 if you do not have a block and crank as cores.

We can build this for either forced indcution or nitrous applications, and of course if you wanted to run on motor thats always fine too.

We have blocks here ready to go, and we are running 3-5 weeks on delivery time right now. Give us a call.




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