qane

After installing the LT's and ORY I took the car out and felt little to no gain in performance which led me to believe the car was running rich enough to spoil any gains i should have seen. Well another suspicion of mine was maybe it was pulling timing from the y-pipe banging. I took it to a shop to dyno it and see what the AutoTap had to say. This was a mustang dyno, car's mods are in sig, it put down 338rwhp but I think it had more if we'd ran it to 6k-6200. Was pig rich throughout and was pulling 3.8-4 degrees of knock retard throughout. Getting as low as 20degrees timing. I've got a few things to do tomorrow to solve the banging completely to get rid of the KR and I'm looking into a MAFT for the richness. After that I think she should be running real strong. Hopefully in the 350-360 range which is what I hoped for.

Here's the graph.



I'll post again in a few weeks or when I get back to the dyno with those things fixed for the final numbers.

Tiger2o69

iTrader: (16)

Thats not awful numbers at all. Considering thats an a4 i would say 360 would be out of the question imo. I dynoed my car with the same setup a few weeks back but my maf was broken so i didnt do very well. But there was a m6 with the same setup u have except it had true duels and he put down basically the same numbers.
Plus that car was an 01 so it had the ls6 intake.

Props to you if you do put down #s like that, it would be awesome but sounds hard to believe.




If you ran it from a stop you probably didnt feel much because u were spinning much worse than before. When i first put my headers on i could feel a difference till i ran it w/ et streets and then i could tell. also at like 70 if you let it shift down u can feel a BIG kickback.


What was ur a/f ratio?

qane

I forgot to have him print out the sheet with the A/F on it. It was RICH. Could smell it, could feel it in the driving. Car would stumble and pretty much every WOT throttle run would stall after letting off then immediately start up again. Gonna get a MAFT and lean it out just a bit. Banging has been solved and the car definately feels quicker so the knock retard problem should be gone. Gonna have him spin it to 6000 instead of 5800. Is 20 more horse from all that really out of the question? I understand its a stretch for such a lightly modded A4, but I couldn't believe it hit almost 340 running rich and pulling 4 degrees KR dropping sometimes as low as 20 degrees. Plus shutting it down at 5800 when the horsepower curve was clearly still climbing. I'm going back in a week or so we'll just have to see. I'd be happy with 350 dont get me wrong but 360 would be better of course

Now I gotta hit the track and see what she gained. I haven't gone due to still having the stock verter I just think I'll be dissapointed. Oh well. Will be worth it to see some times and compare to stock. I'll post up here my final numbers after the next dyno.

samz28

+22hp with normal boltons (catback/lid) would not be unheard of with 93 octane on a reasonably temp'd day/car.

if you got +10hp then yah i'd say that sucks *****. but hp isnt always additive

MikeG

iTrader: (33)

You pulled 338 on a mustang dyno and you're complaining? That's a great number especially considering your limited mods. And to think, there's more left in it!

waterbug1999

iTrader: (3)

[QUOTE) "After installing the LT's and ORY I took the car out and felt little to no gain in performance which led me to believe the car was running rich enough to spoil any gains i should have seen. Well another suspicion of mine was maybe it was pulling timing from the y-pipe banging. I took it to a shop to dyno it and see what the AutoTap had to say. This was a mustang dyno, car's mods are in sig, it put down 338rwhp but I think it had more if we'd ran it to 6k-6200. Was pig rich throughout and was pulling 3.8-4 degrees of knock retard throughout. Getting as low as 20degrees timing. I've got a few things to do tomorrow to solve the banging completely to get rid of the KR and I'm looking into a MAFT for the richness." (END QUOTE)

Question?? How can a Y-Pipe banging on the floor board etc... mess wth performance? Mine has been doing that ever since i put it on pretty much. Can someone explain this or am i not reading it right. thanks

OnyxY2KSS

think its called false knock, too much vibration and the computer pulls timing because it sees it as detonation

waterbug1999

iTrader: (3)

So, i guess it will cause a performance decrease? Only when its banging right.. It ought to pull timing back to normal when it quits... It only does it at a take off when wheels are turned. (damn crappy pacesetter y pipe)!

Sorry to get off your thread but i had to ask..

samz28

my pacesetters required notching kmember and serious torch/wood/2men work on the ypipe to stop most of the rattling. fix it. if you log it you will see the KR and it sounds like butt. reason i like them still is the tuck when lowered i dont have to go sideways over speed bumps still. My bro's ws6 (stock suspension) & hookers = scrape scrape scrape

waterbug1999

iTrader: (3)

I had to cut a little out my K-member as well. Not hittin there. Hittin under my damn seat. Gonna fix it soon. Just read this guys thread about the Timing retard or some issue like that and it didnt make any sense to me why the CPU would do that. Feels sluggish sometmes... Maybe thats why???

qane

I didn't need to notch the k-member, wasn't banging there. The theory i was given is that when you go WOT the engine twists and holds the y-pipe right at the point where it bangs against the car and holds it there while it rattles until you let off. So it isn't just at low speed even though you don't really hear it any other time. I don't because I'm running an open y-pipe so you can't hear much else under WOT. The solution I was given worked perfect which is to shove a 4-5 inch piece or however long you want of power steering hose in between the pipe and where it's hitting. It's a snug fit and works beautifully. I put hose in the two places where the pipe fits very close to the underneathe of the car. No more rattling, lots more power!

Like samz28 said, fix it. You'll make your car very happy

waterbug1999

iTrader: (3)

Yea, just bought some band clamps and a bullet muffler to stop the rasp thats been going on. I guess i will cram some tubing in as well since im under the car as well and see how it works.. Sorry to steal your thread or anything.... Thanks

samz28

I have hptuners logger, i have a crowbar, i rap headers, i watch Knock retard.

They are THAT sensitive.

If you are in a bind (lol) and a valve spring keeps it from bouncing between the floorboard on drivers seat area, do it.