firechicken_98

iTrader: (8)

Anyone else notice a slight increase in their cars water temp after the TC install? I have the B&M tranny cooler, should I get the deep pan too? I'm not too sure what the tranny temps are now, but I imagine they're a lot higher now.

BTW, the car doesn't run that much hotter, just a little bit. I still have the stock original thermostat. It usually sits around the 200 mark now and it used to be at the 180 all the time.

samz28

do yourself a favor for the trans and run the 160 thermostat. the tc will keep it warm
and the fan programming you can tweak seasonly

firechicken_98

iTrader: (8)

I've been debating about the 160 t-stat...I guess i'll just go ahead and get one. Anyone know of a cheap place to get one? I know the sponsors carry them.

sleeperstyle

iTrader: (4)

i have the slp 160* t-stat with fan switch. before the ssf3500 my temps never got past the 180* mark with the low fans on, usually right above the 160* mark.

after the tc install i was seeing alot higher temps, like up to 200* on a full out run. my solution? take out the bottum piece of the ftra so the rad still gets alot of airflow (the bottum piece may give you like 1-2hp but it blocked like more than half of the rad's air stream and, imho engine temp is more benificial in reducing KR then some added ram-air flow).

now i rarely see even 180*, if it even gets up to it i kick the fans on "high" setting and keep the rpms up (the car will pull like 10 volts and slowly die if i let it idle in gear with the fans on high). i also race with the fans on high and rarely see coolant temps over 180* during a run. i also run like 2 bottles of water wetter/hyper lube to help keep temps down (yeah im pretty **** about engine temp)

160* thermostat and fan switch/tune (i like the switch because of the option to turn it on high) are a MUST DO with a tc. "water wetter" is also cheap and effective.

samz28

hyper lube to help keep temps down (yeah im pretty ****

White2000TA

iTrader: (1)

Along the line of this subject. I just replaced a failed 4l60e that had a shift kit, a tranny cooler and a deep pan. I have reused the deep pan and the tranny cooler. Prior to the tranny swap the car took 5-10 minutes to heat up. Now it takes about 2 minutes. Nothing has changed other than the tranny. I normally use redline in my tranny, but right now im using generic. ECT is now normally at 200 as is the tranny temp. I do have a 160 and the fans kick on earlier. Any ideas where to look. The converter was reused as well.

Could the tranny fluid be increasing the temp of the engine coolant? (because the cooler is straped in front of the radiator.)

Also fluid levels are all normal.

samz28

you dont want your tranny taking that long to warm up. imagine the poor thing if you had to get on it (avoid an accident?) and line pressure goes ballistic? nice pic of car btw. i only pulled 1.80 60 and my tires didnt go anywhere

I wonder if the pcm compensates for the line pressure during warmup, hmm must go ask in the pcm forum.

White2000TA

iTrader: (1)

Yeah thats a good point. It doesnt overheat. I think I will just use redline. I just didnt want to put it in a used transmission until I knew the thing was good. Redline is too expensive. I used to have all kinds of traction issues with my et streets and the 4400. When I installed the 12 bolt I began to dead hook. I think it has to do with pinion angel and weight of the moser now.

SmokingWS6

iTrader: (1)

My runs a bit hotter, however I have my low fans set to come on at 185* so it rarely starts getting hot unless i'm in stop and go traffic below converter lockup speed. 160* and lower fan temps will be your best bet. Also 99+ guys, don't foget your guage is fake!

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

Higher pump pressure will make more heat. More TC slip
makes more heat. Got to have a tranny cooler, and the
cooler won't do much without the fans being on. The
194F stock stat (180 rated) is not so bad if you keep
the radiator supplied with air to maintain. The stock fan
settings must go.

SmokingWS6

iTrader: (1)

I think they were referring to higher ect temps, not trans. ECT's raise because the motor is working slightly harder and at higher rpm's, same goes for the stall, the slipping causes increased heat. and as jimmyblue said, the stock fan settings must go. 226 low, 240 somehthing high is insanely high and will cook a transmission even with a cooler.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

But the stock trans cooler dumps to the rad and with the
fans sitting still until 226F, it's reasonable to see the ECT
run up a little against the minimal street/parked airflow.

Need2gofaster

mine(tranny) would get to 220-230 at the track before my tranny cooler.....now it never goes above 180. it depends how you mount your cooler also