Dustin

iTrader: (13)

I dont want to mess anything up on my other than free mods stock 2000 z28, so if you guys could give me some info on what to program as far as shift points and firmness and anything else i would greatly appreciate it.

nyg215

iTrader: (5)

that thing is a piece of ****!!!!!! u should sell it and get hptuners that what im doin. it made me loose rwhp. the only good thing is shift points.
i put mine 1-2 gear -4
2-3 gear -2
3-4 gear 0

i can feel a differnce and i raised my rev limiter to 6300 rpm
100% shift firmness
but as soon as i save up some money im gettin hptuners

Jpr5690

iTrader: (13)

why the -4 on the 1-2 shift and -2 on the 2-3 shift with the hiher rev limiter ?
i did +2, +5, +7 AND a rev limiter of 6400 this gives me approx 6300 rpm shifts

PREDATOR-Z

It is pointless to shift over 6100 with stock cam not to mention valvefloat

Hambone 7

exactly. you're only drawing out shifts and wasting time on the track. and if the HPP3 is bought at a bargin price its not a bad piece of hardware for an auto car.

Jpr5690

iTrader: (13)

i dont understand my whole point of reving to 6300 is beacouse at any rpm below 6300 your upshift will drop you at a rpm that has a lower ammount of hp or atleast according to my dyno

GregWS6&z28

iTrader: (8)

and what rear ratio did you have for that tune(-4,-2, 0) ?

Jpr5690

iTrader: (13)

negative settings just dont make any sence to me

GregWS6&z28

iTrader: (8)

me neither, you're shifting a couple hundred RPM's sooner and getting the car out of the usable power band much earlier

Jpr5690

iTrader: (13)

def gonn have to explain that one

Jip99z

iTrader: (1)

When your car starts making more power, your stock gauges and computer arent gonna be able to keep up with the motor. With my 100 shot I had to drop the shift points on 1-2 & 2-3 to keep from hitting the rev limiter which is set at 6500. If your running stock motor and thats it, id say just firm up the shifts and let it go at that.

PREDATOR-Z

You could have raised the rev limiter to 6800 and achieved the same results without sacrificing any HP in your usable band.

GT Griller

iTrader: (8)

Well the only real way to know what the best shift points are to change one at a time at the track going up in 1mph inraments until that shift point is maximized. Thats the only way to be sure u have the right points. Which ever point yeilds a better time is the point at which u should leave it at. On the firmness i would only firm it up at the track. I did the mistake of leaving it at 75 on the street and now my u-joints make noise.

Yeah i don't understand lowering ur shift points either. U want the car to drop u off in the next gear in ur power band if u shift sooner then u land below the power band.

One Bad Z

iTrader: (1)

Increasing shift firmness builds up heat. Heat is bad. However hypertech's shift firmness levels are not like most people think. 100% shift firmness is not 100% increase from stock. When they say 100% they mean that it is the most they recommend and still be "safe". Anytime you change shift firmness you increase heat so keep that in mind. Thats my $.02

GregWS6&z28

iTrader: (8)

I agree, more firmness is created by more pressure. As the pressure builds the molecules in the fluid compress and are forced to a more excited molecular state. This is shown by the equation PV=nRT. Whereas P=pressure and T is temperature, an increase in one leads to the increase in the other. This is the Ideal Gas Law but the same can be eqauted to fluid dynamics through the Bernoulli equation.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

Just a note, there is (during-)shift pressure and there is
holding pressure. Both are "managed" by a PWM regulator
driven from the PCM which knocks down the pressure used
in the guts, from the master mechanical line pressure
regulator. You can command higher pressure on the shifts
to make them harder / faster but the holding pressure in
steady (in-gear) driving I believe is a separate deal (all
I have to touch this, is the force motor table but the
PWM-vs-load for in-gear is not an accessible table).
The shift adaptation time is also a during-shift pressure
modifier, this is something that the Predator and I presume
HPP3 change for shift speed/firmness.

More pressure during shifts will be a very small heat impact.
More steady line pressure eats power (power = pressure*flow)
and is wasteful once you are above the holding pressure your
clutch-packs require (which relates to engine torque, converter
multiplication, vehicle weight and road grade). I have upped
mine to help out my wimp TCC as this is a second knockdown
from main line.

There are other, mechanical downsides to excess shift pressure
although I think on a stock vehicle in good internal condition,
the handhelds are rigged to not let you go over the top.

Jpr5690

iTrader: (13)

dam this is getting technical now ... and im not a sciencetist (over my head)