mako22

iTrader: (2)

Even though I really only have a lid, kooks LT's and a borla c/b, I'm going to get the car on the dyno this week -curious to see my numbers (330?) I already have a Predator custom tune on there, so I figure it will be a good test to see how good the Pred tune is anyway -

anyone already do this?

please post difference!

txhorns281

iTrader: (12)

for me, MTI lid, Borla, Predator base tune, ported MAF, and free mods put down 338/351 on a 2000 M6

I figure the predator base tune is worth about 10 hp...

mako22

iTrader: (2)

Those are some great #'s - I was actually looking to see someone that dyno'd with a predator tune, and then had it tuned on a dynojet to see how much more they got out of a real, live pro tune as opposed to a "canned" tune....

mako22

iTrader: (2)

ttt please

black_z

iTrader: (4)

Should be interesting to see. TTT

txhorns281

iTrader: (12)

i see what you're saying! Well, the only drawback to the predator is that I don't think you can adjust on individual rpm increments... I know they can do that through their custom tunes, but when you add fuel or timing, it's across the whole band! so.. if you're right one half-way through, but are a little lean on top, you might fatten up down low by adding fuel...

Another thing i hate about the custom tunes is they do as much "guess and check" stuff as you would on your own, they just have the flexibility to adjust at increments... but without being physically there to look at the dyno info it's a pretty inefficient system... However, they're normally pretty close... I had a custom tune for when i put my LS6 Intake, TB, and Pulley on... first run i was 12.5... pretty fat... the tune leaned me out to 12.8-12.9 which was a good thing but i didn't pick up any horses... I also had alot of knock coming from an older to piece ASP (I'm positive it was that since I swapped to the SFI approved and pulled my buddy who was dead even with me on the older one). If you have enough runs to play with it, see where you A/F is running, then add a couple of degrees timing, monitor the knock sensor, make sure you're not pinging... if you have a good 13 A/F then put as much timing in as you can without pinging! that'll be the best power your car can make!