distortion_69

iTrader: (20)

Bank 1 LTRIMS are at +25 at idle, and is there 90% of the time going through the rpm band. It'll drop occasionally but only for a few seconds before it goes back up. The car also has a rather rough idle, and LTRIMS on bank 2 usually are usually 10% less than bank 1. My car overall runs poor at part cruise and feels kind of boggy imo. I also have problems with the abs inop light, traction control, low trac, and on occasion brake light coming on.. The brakes also shudder and click coming to a stop from low speeds, especially when not in gear. Are these problems all related, and if so. how should I approach fixing the problem? Its been doing this for 2-3 months now, but didn't do it when I left futral and didn't develop the problem until well after. O2 sensors/harnesses are new.

I do have some logs. However, none are very high rpm because when I tend to floor the car, for whatever reason, the car stops the power to the cigarette lighter past 4000-5000rpms. The laptop's battery doesn't hold a charge, so naturally it cuts off.. So thats a whole different problem in itself.. maybe you guys can answer that one too.. I can export the data into an excel file if anybody thinks its necessary and wants to see my other values.

FWIW: I've seen my short terms go as high as 50+% on that bank. I didn't think anything over 25% was possible?

Thanks,
Josh

horist

if it's that much of a difference.. i'd think either:

1. bad injector
2. Bad O2 sensor (front ... though that'd set a code)
3. air leak on that side at the intake manifold ....

distortion_69

iTrader: (20)

Should I try swapping injectors from bank to bank? Is there a particular corresponding cylinder that I would need to put each injector into, or can I just flip flop them anywhere.

Thanks,
Josh

P Mack

iTrader: (6)

I would start by checking for a vacuum leak with carb cleaner, it's easier than swapping injectors around. Had you done any work to the car when it started?

HumpinSS

iTrader: (1)

Check and recheak to make sure fresh air isnt hitting the sensor on that side. This happened to me after my header swap. The y-pipe on the collector was a litle far back and pushed my trims + at idle because of the air touching them.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

I suspect you have a power problem - lighter power &
gauges / indicators freaking. Check/clean/tighten the
block, chassis and battery ground and power connections
including screwed-down straps. Might pull and reseat the
PCM connectors (battery unhooked, whilst cleaning) just
to get a good wipe. Carefully.

LTFT way positive can come from a very, very sleepy O2
or from a MAF that's messed up. In either case it should
be accompanied by a code because +25 is the trim limit.
The code will indicate which is the likelier cause. A bad
MAF should affect both banks while an O2 sensor would
only hit one.

Logging misfire current counts for all cylinders is a good
way to check for vacuum leaks, injector problems, bad
plugs/wires. Anything over onesey-twosey type counts
is suspicious on a stockish car. A fallen-off plug wire
gave me like 115 counts against a 0-2 background.
A single cylinder (like injector O-ring, loose manifold,
etc.) vacuum leak should show up at idle here, and
a bank being 1/4 lean will jack your trims to comp it
out.

monodax

Is your O2 millivolts fluctuating on Bank 1. If not you may have your o2 wire or extension melted against the header or engine.

distortion_69

iTrader: (20)

O2 has a reading, it appears to me that its not that far off from bank 2. Its definately not 25% off. I also have no misfires showing up in hp tuners. I sprayed around the intake with wd40, and it sounded like the idle might have cleared up a little?? It didn't seem to really rev or anything.. Just seemed like it may have went from like 850-900.. I'm thinking of pulling the intake tomorrow and putting the gasket I have in my garage on.. O2s and harnesses are new, and look new.. However, I'm going to check again and make sure theres something I couldn't see tomorrow also.

Thanks,
Josh

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

Just a note, WD-40 is bad to use here; if there -is-
a vacuum leak, you will pull it in and silicon is an O2
sensor killer. Carb cleaner is better. Also if you are
hunting by looking for idle drop you should pull the
IAC connector, so it can't "conceal" the effect.

distortion_69

iTrader: (20)

Thanks for the tips..

Update:

I switched lids/mafs with a friend, and his isn't quite as bad.. The car now shows 1.4 MAF reading rather than 1.3, as well as now shows an LT B1 of 14 or so at idle, while LT B2 shows ~-1 or -2... So its not at 25% anymore.. I'm going to swap injectors tomorrow.. There sure was a ton of oil in the intake I'm hoping this is just a PCV issue.

Thanks,
Josh