Stock crank?
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Stock crank?
How many cubic inches could you get out of a stock crank? I have yet to hear of anybody breaking a stock crank. I will be freshening up my motor this winter and was wanting to go with forged rods, and pistons. If I was to re-use the stock crank, would I be able to get anymore cubic inches out of the stock crank? Could I bore out to a 383????? If it is possible, has anyone done it. I just don't have the extra dough right now to shell out on a crank, along with the rods, pistons, rings ect. So how big can I go with the stock crank, and how much power do you think it could handle?
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Yeah but the whole point is going for a budget builup. I will be replacing the pistons and rods and rings this winter. I figured while the block was at the machine shop I would go ahead and go as big as I can with the stock crank and stock block without sleeving or having to absorb any other cost. I thought I would at least be able to go up to a 383 but it appears that there is not a enough cylinder wall to do that. Basicly I'm looking to rebuild for around $1800. I figured around $1000 for the pistons and rods, and about $500 in machine work. The rest would go to new gaskets and ARP studs and stuff like that. I just figured if I could pick up a few extra cubes while doing it, that would be cool.
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in one of the past CHP magazines they had a budget ls1 bottom build up, they took the stock crank and had it re-ground and the block bored over, made like a 357? not sure but I know it was over 350 ci and it made some nice power, plus they didn't spend all that much to have all the work done....
let me go look around teh bath room to find it
let me go look around teh bath room to find it
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found her, they decreased the crank pin diameter from 2.100 to 2.060 thus changing the stroke to 3.650 and bored it from 3.897 to 3.908 that equals out to 351 ci
they have it listed as $190 to re-work the stock rods and $575 to re-work the stock crank, and figure another $100 to bore the block.
if you want i will scan the article and post it up later...
they have it listed as $190 to re-work the stock rods and $575 to re-work the stock crank, and figure another $100 to bore the block.
if you want i will scan the article and post it up later...
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If you re-sleeved an aluminum block with the Darton MID Sleeves to their maximum bore (4.160) and used the stock crank (3.622) you'd come up with 393 Cubic Inches.
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If your looking for more CI you should just go for a 4" stroke and put it in your old motor to have your 383, this will help you keep the cost down from sleeving it. You should call us up at HPE and talk to Erik in the afternoon. We can work with you to come up with a buildup that fits your needs.
Good Luck
Good Luck