Tiago

iTrader: (27)

When I first relocated the battery everytime I started the car it would act like I reset the PCM, gauges sweep the full range and everything, zeroed trip meter, etc. Every time I started the car it did that.

Then I got a optima red top. Problem went away. It was great.

Then I took the car apart to rebuild the motor, put it back together and now the problem is back, this is really pissing me off

Anyone else encounter this problem?

Hambone 7

do you have a really good body to battery ground? i had that problem once.

technical

Sounds like a bad ground or even a screwed up starter.

Tiago

iTrader: (27)

the battery was grounded onto the body where the antenna is , is that ok?

I don't see how a starter coudl cause that though?

technical

Depends, just thinking out loud, but does it do it when you turn the key to "on" or when you turn the key to "start"?

Tiago

iTrader: (27)

only when I start the car, the trip meter is already reset by the time u turn the key of course but the gauges only full sweep after teh car starts.


Its weird

technical

Sorry, I didn't mean starter...ignition switch.
But it does sound like something is opening the circuit for a moment.

shawn's SS

iTrader: (5)

Did you scrap the paint away where the ground is? You should think about using a star washer also, as it will dig into the metal.

Beast96Z

iTrader: (21)

With our cars being unibody, we have alot of problems when you move the battery. You can't ever have to good of a ground, so the best thing to do is run a ground like you have in the rear, then run another up front and ground the front half of the car. Since most of your grounded connections are in front anyway, this makes the most since. I'm sure you already have, but make sure you cable is big enough to carry the current. I always reccomend 1/0 stranded copper from a welding store for the positive, and at least a #2 stranded ground for the front and the back grounds.

B18B1LS1

iTrader: (12)

I left my stock ground up front by the old battery location and ran my rear ground to one of the bumper support holes. Everything was done in 2-gauge and it works great for me.

Tiago

iTrader: (27)

Thanks for the tips guys Im gonna Re-ground my setup this weekend double check everything see how it goes....

Tiago

iTrader: (27)

well I redid all my grounds, even added a second ground cable in the rear of the car from my post in the antennae mount to teh frame underneath the car. Still same thing happening. I can't help but think I somehow eneded up with a bad cell in the OPTIMA...
Do they haev some kind of warranty?

boondiggys

iTrader: (165)

i wanted to move my battery as well what do u do to splice it? or is it something where you bolt it to the old battery mount? sorry im kinda new

Mike K.

Mine works ok I just used the 1/0 guage to a dist block in the front for positive then used the stock wires to route to where they were intially from the dist block, I then got a 1/0 ground in the back as well, I used a dremel and polished the inside of the body and used an existing bolt and some high grade stereo connectors to finish it up, My ground wire is thick but short, maybe 1.5 ft long, Bad part is I probably added weight lol but Im not having any problems with guages etc.

sawedoff

iTrader: (3)

Mine was also fine, before I took up the battery relocation project about 4 1/2 year ago.It started the sweeping guages and zeroing out of my trip meter every time I'd start the car. I just finally gave up, disconnected everything and went back with my conventional setup, like the factory had it. My guages still peg out, and my trip odometer zeroes out. I don't like it, and I've posted questions repeatedly about this off and on over time. I never did get any responses on this.Back when I under took this project. I went out and bought an expensive lightweight dry cell race battery. I ran some 0 guage wire that I had gotten from a racer friend. I really tried to do it by the book.