Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

I may attempt this in my garage based on feedback from here. Also what type of bolts would you recommend and why? Where would I attach an engine hoist to support the engine?

If I do this, I will do it the same time I swap the K Member.

Thanks for any feedback.

Bo White

iTrader: (59)

I would run the ARPs- either grade, if you can change an oil pump in an old chevy and can read a torque wrench- you can handle it.

ArKay99

iTrader: (1)

I did it with the ARP Pro's. No issues. However, if I were to do it again, I would use the Katech bolts. They are a little pricier but, they are the same length and weight as the stock bolts so, no inbalance issues. And the torque sequence and amount will not distort the rods. Mine didn't distort any that I could measure, however there are some that have measured and found out-of-roundness.

Bryan TTM

ARP...you can do it...drop the oil pan...rotate the engine to each rod, you can do two rods at a time...look at the rod bearings when you do it

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

So you can change the rod bolts without taking the engine completely out of the car???!!!

SSean

I swapped 8 sets of rod bearings and 4 sets of main bearings with out taking the engine out of the car (yes I know there are 5 main's, but I couldnt get the main cap out of the back of the block with out removing the rear cover....with out removing the tranny, and all that wasnt about to happen ) so yes, you can do the rod bolts

rons 00z

iTrader: (10)

are you guys dropping the k member at all?

SSean

I completley removed my k-member, yes. I belive some guys are just lowering theirs though

Steve Burger

iTrader: (33)

If I do this I will be changing the K Mimber at the same time. I thought the process was to remove and replace ONE bolt at a time. To look at the bearing I would need to pull the cap apart.

Is that what's being suggested?

Bo White

iTrader: (59)

If inspecting the bearings is the game plan then remove the cap, but I just do 1 at the time so to not disturb anymore than you have to. Besure to retorque the bolts as suggested by ARP or what ever company you go with.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

So the k-member has to be dropped or lowered to swap the rod bolts? What if I have the BMR k-member in there? Whats the purpose of dropping the k-member, is it to take the pan out or to get to all of the rod bolts? Im really thinking about changing them out but dont wanna drop the k-member to do so. I figured since I had a tubular one that there would be enough room. Thanks.