ARP's or GM factory head bolts.
10-28-2004, 09:31 AM
#1
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ARP's or GM factory head bolts. I'm going to be pulling off my heads again over the winter and i know it won't be the last time either. I was wondering if u guys recomend the ARP head bolts or should I just stick with the factory torque-to-yield bolts i think i read about some problems with the ARP's-is this true? Thanks!
10-28-2004, 10:26 AM
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Run the ARPs, follow their instructions and you will not have any trouble out of 'em. Besides they simplify the torque down process big timeand are reuseable.
10-28-2004, 11:28 AM
#4
Originally Posted by Vortech
I'm going to be pulling off my heads again over the winter and i know it won't be the last time either. I was wondering if u guys recomend the ARP head bolts or should I just stick with the factory torque-to-yield bolts i think i read about some problems with the ARP's-is this true? Thanks!
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10-28-2004, 11:59 AM
#8
Originally Posted by P Mack
Sidestep, what did you use to get your deck that clean and how long did it take you?
I bought arp head studs just in case I ever have to pull my heads again or if I get a new engine.
I bought arp head studs just in case I ever have to pull my heads again or if I get a new engine.
Good to go....
10-28-2004, 12:47 PM
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Having taken the heads off my car 5 + times, I would recommend the ARPs. Another good thing is when you do pull the heads off you dont have to clean the bolt holes. This saves a good hour or so not to mention its a PITA.
Last edited by TRYMYZ; 10-28-2004 at 08:33 PM.
10-28-2004, 01:22 PM
#14
Correct me if I’m wrong, but shouldn’t you hone the cylinders with a torque plate/studs when you switch to ARP studs?
Because they are not torque to yield, they will cause the cylinders to slightly become out of round.
It’s been a long day, maybe I’m thinking about something else.
Because they are not torque to yield, they will cause the cylinders to slightly become out of round.
It’s been a long day, maybe I’m thinking about something else.
10-28-2004, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by jermstyle
Correct me if I’m wrong, but shouldn’t you hone the cylinders with a torque plate/studs when you switch to ARP studs?
Because they are not torque to yield, they will cause the cylinders to slightly become out of round.
It’s been a long day, maybe I’m thinking about something else.
Because they are not torque to yield, they will cause the cylinders to slightly become out of round.
It’s been a long day, maybe I’m thinking about something else.
10-28-2004, 01:32 PM
#16
Originally Posted by conan
Side step: Is there any problems getting the heads back on with the studs? I ordered my heads from mti and they said to use the arp bolts because I was leaving the block in the car. Is this true?
10-28-2004, 03:42 PM
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I can see wanting to check out of roundness going from bolts to studs but not bolts to bolts. Pat Musi built the engine in his '98 T/A and didnt even use torque plates because he could not see a measurable difference on honing his LS1 block. I maybe wrong on that story because it has been quite a while since I read the article, will dig it up though.
Edit- I just found it and that statement holds about the load difference between a torque plate and w/o.
Edit- I just found it and that statement holds about the load difference between a torque plate and w/o.
10-28-2004, 06:04 PM
#19
Originally Posted by jermstyle
Correct me if I’m wrong, but shouldn’t you hone the cylinders with a torque plate/studs when you switch to ARP studs?
Because they are not torque to yield, they will cause the cylinders to slightly become out of round.
It’s been a long day, maybe I’m thinking about something else.
Because they are not torque to yield, they will cause the cylinders to slightly become out of round.
It’s been a long day, maybe I’m thinking about something else.
10-28-2004, 06:53 PM
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From what I understand it is true. A line hone is required/recommended per the ART stud I-sheet. Not for the bolts just the studs. Different torque values in different places means you should never switch back and forth. For this reason I am going with ARP bolts. A vendor can step in anytime. There are some nightmare scenarios around. I really wanted to go with studs but thats not likely now.