looking for pics of a pewter transam wiht rear blackouts!!!!
11-05-2004, 08:14 AM
#5
Originally Posted by Snootch
I photoshopped one side to maybe give you an idea...
I've batted the idea of painting mine back and forth a few times....have yet to do it though.
11-05-2004, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by y2k_ta
I'm not a fan of the blackouts, but I really like the shade you chose to paint the lower portion of your bumper! I've batted the idea of painting mine back and forth a few times....have yet to do it though.
I've batted the idea of painting mine back and forth a few times....have yet to do it though.
11-05-2004, 01:08 PM
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It'sw not too hard, cost me less than $10, and about three hours. I used gray spray primer, Dupli-color charcoal gray metallic spray paint, then Dupli-color clear coat. Masked it, sanded it, cleaned it with acetone, light coat of primer, two or three light color coats of gray, then after about two hours in the sun, about five coats of clear coat.
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11-05-2004, 09:12 PM
#8
Originally Posted by Snootch
It'sw not too hard, cost me less than $10, and about three hours. I used gray spray primer, Dupli-color charcoal gray metallic spray paint, then Dupli-color clear coat. Masked it, sanded it, cleaned it with acetone, light coat of primer, two or three light color coats of gray, then after about two hours in the sun, about five coats of clear coat.
11-10-2004, 08:33 PM
#10
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Yeah I like what you did to the bumper. I have a question though. I had to recently repaint one of my lids. I bought the closest match for NBM, used black primer and sprayed about 3-4 coats of blue and a few coats of clear. But then it did NOT end up the same shade as the rest of the car. More lighter, greenish look. I'm thinking maybe more coats? I tried looking at duplicolor.com for the closest match and I'm sure I got the closest they got. Is it that i need more coats or thats the best they have for NBM?
11-10-2004, 09:32 PM
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Someone PM'ed me about it, so i'll repeat the process:
Sure, no problem. First, I bought a can of Dupli-color metallic gray paint, one can of Grey auto primer, and two cans of the Dupli-color automotive clear coat from Advance Auto Parts. I don't remember the name of the exact color, just use the one you like. Before you use any can of paint/primer shake the cans thoroughly first. any time you touch a can, shake it for a few minutes.
First, I removed the license plate, and masked off the area using painter's tape. (it's a little like regular masking tape, but not as sticky, so it comes off easier.) This is the hard part, use small strips when you go around the corners, and make sure the tape is applied evenly, so that no paint will touch the paint where you don't want it to. Next, I taped newspaper to the outside part of the taped off area, just to be sure that I wouldn't get any overspray on the back of the car. I also masked/newspapered the exhaust tips as well.
Next, I cleaned the area to be painted with some acetone purchased from Lowe's. The acetone will get off any oils or grease on the surface. Make sure that you clean it very well, because the prep work is going to decide whether the paint wants to stay stuck to the bumper or not. This is very important considering the bumper is a flexible plastic. Once the exposed paint had been cleaned with the solvent, lightly sand the entire exposed area with 400 grit sandpaper. Makes sure you get everywhere, including under the skirt, behind the plate, and around the tips. What you want to do is rough up the surface so it appears flat, not glossy at all.
Once the sanding is complete, wipe the area down again with the acetone. do it really well, then change rags (lint-free) and clean it again. Make sure that there is no sanding dust remaining, and you have a flat, grayish dull, CLEAN area, and it's masked well.
Next, paint the area with the primer. Technique is important. spray the primer in several (two or three) light coats. As with any spray paint, the proper technique is to start spraying before the can comes directly over the leading edge of the surface, then spray horizontally, (left to right) with the can approximately 12" to 15" from the surface. don't stop spraying until the can has passed over the trailing edge of the surface. NEVER stop the motion of the can while you are spraying! keep the can in motion! Do not apply in one continuous spray; instead, release the spray button after each pass. This will help you avoid any runs or drips. The primer only has to be a light coat. Give it about an hour in the sun to dry. (do the project on a sunny, nice day, not too windy)
Once it's dry, spray the color coat using the gray paint. Use the same technique. This time, about the third light coat, it should be getting shiny, but not so wet that it looks like it might run. Get it thick enough that there is one continuous coat over the entire exposed area. Once the color is on, give it a few hours to dry in the sun. Now, paint on the clearcoat, applying thin, wet coats, and allowing about 30 minutes between coats. Put on two coats, and it should be nice and shiny. Here, you can stop for the day, let it dry completely, catch it around 10:00 or so when the sun is bright and hot again, then wetsand it with 1000 grit to smooth it out, clean with alcohol, then spray final two coats of clear.) Or, you could add the final two coats right then, and remove the tape the next day after it has had 12+ hours to dry. Again,do not remove the masking tape and newspaper until the paint has dried for 12+ hours! Remove the tape carefully, and it should look great!
Originally Posted by 777
I saw your car's rear bumper and how it was painted. It looks VERY nice. I know you gave a breif description of how you did this, but is there more to it. I am not familiar in any way with painted or sanding. So first, do you think i could do it. Second could you go into detail on the materials you needed and how to do it. I would greatly appreciate it. I want to use the same exact color on a black trans am. Also, how well does it match up as far as the shine and clear coat? Thanks.
Kevin
Kevin
First, I removed the license plate, and masked off the area using painter's tape. (it's a little like regular masking tape, but not as sticky, so it comes off easier.) This is the hard part, use small strips when you go around the corners, and make sure the tape is applied evenly, so that no paint will touch the paint where you don't want it to. Next, I taped newspaper to the outside part of the taped off area, just to be sure that I wouldn't get any overspray on the back of the car. I also masked/newspapered the exhaust tips as well.
Next, I cleaned the area to be painted with some acetone purchased from Lowe's. The acetone will get off any oils or grease on the surface. Make sure that you clean it very well, because the prep work is going to decide whether the paint wants to stay stuck to the bumper or not. This is very important considering the bumper is a flexible plastic. Once the exposed paint had been cleaned with the solvent, lightly sand the entire exposed area with 400 grit sandpaper. Makes sure you get everywhere, including under the skirt, behind the plate, and around the tips. What you want to do is rough up the surface so it appears flat, not glossy at all.
Once the sanding is complete, wipe the area down again with the acetone. do it really well, then change rags (lint-free) and clean it again. Make sure that there is no sanding dust remaining, and you have a flat, grayish dull, CLEAN area, and it's masked well.
Next, paint the area with the primer. Technique is important. spray the primer in several (two or three) light coats. As with any spray paint, the proper technique is to start spraying before the can comes directly over the leading edge of the surface, then spray horizontally, (left to right) with the can approximately 12" to 15" from the surface. don't stop spraying until the can has passed over the trailing edge of the surface. NEVER stop the motion of the can while you are spraying! keep the can in motion! Do not apply in one continuous spray; instead, release the spray button after each pass. This will help you avoid any runs or drips. The primer only has to be a light coat. Give it about an hour in the sun to dry. (do the project on a sunny, nice day, not too windy)
Once it's dry, spray the color coat using the gray paint. Use the same technique. This time, about the third light coat, it should be getting shiny, but not so wet that it looks like it might run. Get it thick enough that there is one continuous coat over the entire exposed area. Once the color is on, give it a few hours to dry in the sun. Now, paint on the clearcoat, applying thin, wet coats, and allowing about 30 minutes between coats. Put on two coats, and it should be nice and shiny. Here, you can stop for the day, let it dry completely, catch it around 10:00 or so when the sun is bright and hot again, then wetsand it with 1000 grit to smooth it out, clean with alcohol, then spray final two coats of clear.) Or, you could add the final two coats right then, and remove the tape the next day after it has had 12+ hours to dry. Again,do not remove the masking tape and newspaper until the paint has dried for 12+ hours! Remove the tape carefully, and it should look great!
Last edited by Snootch; 12-16-2005 at 09:06 AM.
11-10-2004, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 2001FireBird
Yeah I like what you did to the bumper. I have a question though. I had to recently repaint one of my lids. I bought the closest match for NBM, used black primer and sprayed about 3-4 coats of blue and a few coats of clear. But then it did NOT end up the same shade as the rest of the car. More lighter, greenish look. I'm thinking maybe more coats? I tried looking at duplicolor.com for the closest match and I'm sure I got the closest they got. Is it that i need more coats or thats the best they have for NBM?
Alot of times, the paint will dry a little different color than you think it will. That's why I stick to the color codes.
Last edited by Snootch; 12-16-2005 at 09:03 AM.
