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This all I need for ASP pulley, or do I need a Balancer bolt?

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Old 11-06-2004, 11:03 AM
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Default This all I need for ASP pulley, or do I need a Balancer bolt?

Tbyrne has the whole ASP crank pulley kit with belts and the bolt. My question is will this bolt work, or do I need the ARP balancer bolt sold on thunder's site? I know you need the longer bolt, but I don't know if the one supplied is the longer bolt.
Old 11-06-2004, 11:18 AM
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The one supplied is a new stock balancer bolt. Do NOT use it to INSTALL the pulley.
Old 11-06-2004, 12:36 PM
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use the stocker to push the pulley on and then the new one to "torque to yeild"

also- throw the pulley in the freezer over night
Old 11-06-2004, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by ramairstyle00
use the stocker to push the pulley on and then the new one to "torque to yeild"

also- throw the pulley in the freezer over night
put it in a freezer?...why have i never heard that?...and WHY will you need an ARP Balancer pulley...why not the ones that come in the kit...for instance SLP's also come with another
Old 11-06-2004, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 02WS6Bird
put it in a freezer?...why have i never heard that?...and WHY will you need an ARP Balancer pulley...why not the ones that come in the kit...for instance SLP's also come with another
You would want the opposite (heat) to put it on from what I understand but all this is overkill. I just put some oil on the crank then used my all thread bolt to pull it on there. Went on EASY. Then I used my old factory bolt and torqued it to 240 ft lbs. Then removed it, put in the new bolt that came with the ASP (gm bolt) torqued it to 37 ft lbs then 140 degrees. This is the correct way to do it. Fast LS1 I still have a couple of these all thread bolts left over from making mine to safely press the Pulley on the crank snout.

Here is a couple of pics:

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Old 11-06-2004, 02:56 PM
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The only reason you'd want the arp bolt is cause it's reuseable unlike the gm bolt. I've got one. I also got that tool from code4, pretty good deal IMO.
Old 11-06-2004, 07:15 PM
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idk why, but it was easy to get on when i did that. hold the old pulley over it and tap it a few times. then put the old bolt in a few threads and hit it with the impact.... slid right in. then when it quit going in i put the new bolt in with the proper torque
Old 11-07-2004, 07:33 AM
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I thought that the factory crank bolt was not a torque to yeild.... I read that in Gm Hightech and they spoke with Morgan Motorsports abou it. They said that it was ok to reuse the stocker..
Old 11-07-2004, 07:40 AM
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"They said that it was ok to reuse the stocker.."

They are wrong.
Old 11-07-2004, 07:46 AM
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ok..just thought id add my .02
Old 11-07-2004, 07:58 AM
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Do not use the old stock bolt. The bolt actually stretches when it is torqued. All you need is the pully, two belts and a NEW bolt.
Old 11-07-2004, 11:23 AM
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code4 what are the specs on the bolt size and thread pitch if you don't mind me asking? I think I might be able to just duplicate that rod if that's ok.

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Old 11-07-2004, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by FAST LS1
code4 what are the specs on the bolt size and thread pitch if you don't mind me asking? I thinking I might be able to just duplicate that rod if that's ok.
Sure, It's M16 X 2.0 pitch. I made mine 6 1/4 inches long & will work with a deep socket. You could make it shorter. Then I get these industrial strength washers from work. The outside diameter fits nicely inside the Pulley. I don't know the diameter without going out to the shop and measuring. Hope this helps. You could also go to NAPA and get a regular bolt 120 mm long. A lot of people use those to start the pulley. I just think the absolute best and safest way is with the all thread tool.

Old 11-07-2004, 01:23 PM
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Or Ppal me $15.00 shipped. I had to buy 3 ft of that bolt. I couldn't find it any other way & it was expesive so I made a several & will sell them to get my money back.
Old 11-07-2004, 01:24 PM
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The all thread way is definately safer, and for a few bucks extra it's worth it. Thanks for the help and info code4.
Old 11-07-2004, 05:05 PM
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holy crap, I had no idea there was so much involved with the pulley mod...I just bought TSP's pulley and belt kit, and now I'm not sure if that was a mistake or not...sounds like I need a new bolt for sure though...
Old 11-07-2004, 06:41 PM
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1Bad: here's some info for ya:
I posted this in Sept.

Hey fellow LS1-ers

If you can't find this anywhere, none of the sponsors I checked stock this thing:

16 MM x 2.0 [coarse]thread pitch x 120 mm long, grade DIN 10.9 [metric grade 8] bolt for crank pulley removal/installs......

Available through:

Maryland Metrics, Inc
6119 Oakleaf Ave [locals: Off Reisterstown Road off Menlo Ave, hon !]
Baltimore, MD 21215

410-358-3130 phone
e-mail:sales@mdmetric.com.

Fully threaded brand new bolt. Don't risk stripping out your crank threads!!!

Just passing along info......

Later,

Mike
Old 11-07-2004, 07:46 PM
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hey, good info man, thanks!
Old 11-21-2004, 08:23 AM
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code 4, do you still hvae extra bolts? PM sent also...
Old 12-05-2004, 10:34 PM
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hey code4, got one of those all-thread deals still laying around? I'll shoot you a PM too. I'm gonna need one.


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