B.Buster

iTrader: (1)

While driving easy today tranny started acting up. At first it would not disengage at a stop and stall motor (like a standard if you didn't step on clutch) . At first I thought the converter lockup was not dis-engaging. I parked car , and when I started to drive it seemed like converter was slipping (have Midwest 3000/2.0 str) . 2 miles later car would hardly move except in 2nd with no shifting. Checked fluid- OK. This is an 02 Z-28 with 11,000 miles. Mods; D1-SC ,Transgo shift kit, Midwest verter. Did I kill my tranny ? Thanks

Roarin_8

iTrader: (5)

Do you have a tranny cooler installed also?

B.Buster

iTrader: (1)

I do have a cooler, a B&M the 24,000 GVW. I forgot to mention I also have reverse.

2002 Trans Am

Any SES lights?
Try disconnecting the battery for a minute and then going for a drive, if it doesn't work I would guess the tranny needs to be rebuilt, I am sure the D1-SC isn't helping

B.Buster

iTrader: (1)

No SES light. Auto tapped and had no codes. I will drop the pan tomorrow. Maybe I'll be lucky and it will be easy like a snap ring or "O" ring.

TeamTripp

Your transmission could be stuck in fourth and it still wouldn't stall at a stop. The only way you would have a stall condition is if the converter was locked up.

You said you have reverse. Does it feel like the foward gears?

TWS

iTrader: (63)

Hmmm... not acting exactly how others have acted with the same problem, but it is a weak spot in these trannies... you could have cracked the sun shell or at least ground off the teeth on it.

Hope it's not that. That requires pulling the tranny and disassembly.

B.Buster

iTrader: (1)

The verdict is in the tranny puked. I am no expert but metal shavings in the pan tell the story. Took the tranny out this morning. It's hard to believe I watched the odometer turn 11,000 miles as I drove my crippled car home. Now it's time to spend money in RIGHT direction and get a tranny that can hold up. I want to stay A4 , any ideas on a built tranny that can take it ? Thanks for the input.

James B.

iTrader: (1)

A 4L60 or 65 built with even the best stuff will not hold up to a blown LS1 in the long haul. The available aftermarket parts can make is resist mechanical failure, but even the best friction materials cannot last when over worked - there just isn't enough friction surface area in the band or the 3-4 clutches. A fully built 4L60-E with 65-E planets and hardened heavy-duty input shaft, drum, reaction shell, double-cage sprag, and a shift kit set up to shift smoothly will yield you probably no more than 20,000 miles. That's just the way it goes with these units - they were never intended to be heavy-duty.

A 4-speed automatic that can be expected to hold up behind your motor is the 4L80-E. I don't have much information on the swap of an 80 into an F-Body, but it has been discussed here and done before. You will find that many people opt to install a manual reverse-pattern valve body so that it shifts manually. This is not necessary - the computer can shift it with the right programming and harness adapter. Unfortunately you will have to buy a new converter and fabricate a crossmember and install an aftermarket torque arm that bolts to the chassis instead of the tailshaft housing, or perhaps a custom modified tailshaft housing for the 80, so this is not a simple project by any means. The result of all the work WILL BE a 4-speed auto that you never have to think about. The added weight and narrower gear ratio range are trade-offs well worth the increase in powerhandling and shift precision. The close ratios make the 1-2 shift a lot better than the 60 can provide. I know of nobody unhappy with their 4L80-E swap.

Good Luck.

B.Buster

iTrader: (1)

Thanks James B, can a built 4l80e w/converter be had for $3000.00 ? Anyone ? Thanks again.

john kilgore

$3500. with 10" lock-up 818 522-2568 this guys name is jim and does a great job. good luck