Will replacing knock sensors do any good?
11-07-2004, 04:36 PM
#1
Will replacing knock sensors do any good? I've spent all this year trying to tune out knock retard that I get typically around 4500 rpms (but very unpredictable). I currently have my timing at 4500 rpms and 0.64+g/cyl tuned down to 22 degrees, and still see 3.9 degrees of knock on occasion.
I have a '98 TA and have read that the '97 & '98 knock sensors can sometimes report false knock. If I order 2 more from GM, would that solve it, do you think?
Or are they likely the same batch number that I already have in my car?
I have the intake off now and could check on which connection type they are. I've heard that there's two different kinds.
I have a '98 TA and have read that the '97 & '98 knock sensors can sometimes report false knock. If I order 2 more from GM, would that solve it, do you think?
Or are they likely the same batch number that I already have in my car?
I have the intake off now and could check on which connection type they are. I've heard that there's two different kinds.
11-07-2004, 06:06 PM
#2
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Originally Posted by V-10 Killer
I've spent all this year trying to tune out knock retard that I get typically around 4500 rpms (but very unpredictable). I currently have my timing at 4500 rpms and 0.64+g/cyl tuned down to 22 degrees, and still see 3.9 degrees of knock on occasion.
I have a '98 TA and have read that the '97 & '98 knock sensors can sometimes report false knock. If I order 2 more from GM, would that solve it, do you think?
Or are they likely the same batch number that I already have in my car?
I have the intake off now and could check on which connection type they are. I've heard that there's two different kinds.
I have a '98 TA and have read that the '97 & '98 knock sensors can sometimes report false knock. If I order 2 more from GM, would that solve it, do you think?
Or are they likely the same batch number that I already have in my car?
I have the intake off now and could check on which connection type they are. I've heard that there's two different kinds.
11-07-2004, 07:30 PM
#3
I've replaced a few on 98 cars and some helped but some didn't.Like HP tuner,with edit you can tune out false KR. Also have found if you have a noisy drivetrain like torque arms(solid mount)ect the false KR might never go away.Those cars I delete the KR sensors.
11-12-2004, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by V-10 Killer
Well, I pulled them out of my car, I'm going to try to replace them and see what happens. The number on the side of them was 10456222. They do have the orienting tabs on them.
Were these the questionable ones?
Were these the questionable ones?
11-12-2004, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by tici
Who can explain how to handle false knock with Edit?
My 98 LS1 has the typical problem... 3.8 KR!
My 98 LS1 has the typical problem... 3.8 KR!
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11-12-2004, 05:04 PM
#8
"Noise level" is the magic word in many posts, but I haven't find any specific information. The stock setting is 1.7 what to do?
Some replace the 98 sensors, but not everyone has positive results.
Increase VE in that specific spot, reduce timing, increase PE... those are just a few of the suggestions I saw, but until now I haven't find the final cure for that.
I also built an adjustable desensitizer and it works, the question now is "what is a safe desensitation".
In my case reducing timing by 5-6* in the critical spots did help, but you can also feel the reduced power.
What next?
Some replace the 98 sensors, but not everyone has positive results.
Increase VE in that specific spot, reduce timing, increase PE... those are just a few of the suggestions I saw, but until now I haven't find the final cure for that.
I also built an adjustable desensitizer and it works, the question now is "what is a safe desensitation".
In my case reducing timing by 5-6* in the critical spots did help, but you can also feel the reduced power.
What next?
12-01-2004, 07:56 AM
#10
Originally Posted by V-10 Killer
Well.....what the hell. I just threw 2 new knock sensors in the car. We'll just have to see what happens. If that doesn't fix it, I'm upgrading to HP Tuners anyway. I'll just have to fiddle with it in the spring 
12-01-2004, 03:56 PM
#13
I'd really like to, but the car is half ripped apart right now.
Getting ready for a 12 bolt (and nitrous DS, and Spohn TQ arm) this winter.
Then I'm switching from my NOS 5177 kit to a dual stage NX kit
and switching from the LS6 to LS2 intake and 90mm TPIS TB, Z06 MAF and 85mm airlid
Needless to say the car won't even start right now
Getting ready for a 12 bolt (and nitrous DS, and Spohn TQ arm) this winter.
Then I'm switching from my NOS 5177 kit to a dual stage NX kit
and switching from the LS6 to LS2 intake and 90mm TPIS TB, Z06 MAF and 85mm airlid
Needless to say the car won't even start right now
12-02-2004, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by tici
...and because you're such a nice guy you'll certainly tell us how... 
http://www.hptuners.com/forum/YaBB.p...num=1099271043
12-03-2004, 01:02 AM
#19
"On the Knock Sensor Global Gain vs. MAP vs. Cyl, the table goes from all 4s to all 1s right at 65 kpa, I changed those 1s to 4s"
Is this in Edit Knock Retard / Attack vs RPM? Looks like...
So basically you are telling the PCM to wait 4 seconds before bothering about KR?
Talking about 98's: I had a lot (6-7) of KR at 1400-1600 rpm and 0.4-0.5 G/cyl (85-90 kpa MAP). The only solution was to reduce timing 8-10 degrees in that spot. The PCM did only removed 4-5 degrees but this was enough to get raid of KR (in thaht particular spot). Do you have (had) the same problem?
Is this in Edit Knock Retard / Attack vs RPM? Looks like...
So basically you are telling the PCM to wait 4 seconds before bothering about KR?
Talking about 98's: I had a lot (6-7) of KR at 1400-1600 rpm and 0.4-0.5 G/cyl (85-90 kpa MAP). The only solution was to reduce timing 8-10 degrees in that spot. The PCM did only removed 4-5 degrees but this was enough to get raid of KR (in thaht particular spot). Do you have (had) the same problem?
12-03-2004, 11:57 AM
#20
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Originally Posted by tici
"On the Knock Sensor Global Gain vs. MAP vs. Cyl, the table goes from all 4s to all 1s right at 65 kpa, I changed those 1s to 4s"
Is this in Edit Knock Retard / Attack vs RPM? Looks like...
So basically you are telling the PCM to wait 4 seconds before bothering about KR?
Talking about 98's: I had a lot (6-7) of KR at 1400-1600 rpm and 0.4-0.5 G/cyl (85-90 kpa MAP). The only solution was to reduce timing 8-10 degrees in that spot. The PCM did only removed 4-5 degrees but this was enough to get raid of KR (in thaht particular spot). Do you have (had) the same problem?
Is this in Edit Knock Retard / Attack vs RPM? Looks like...
So basically you are telling the PCM to wait 4 seconds before bothering about KR?
Talking about 98's: I had a lot (6-7) of KR at 1400-1600 rpm and 0.4-0.5 G/cyl (85-90 kpa MAP). The only solution was to reduce timing 8-10 degrees in that spot. The PCM did only removed 4-5 degrees but this was enough to get raid of KR (in thaht particular spot). Do you have (had) the same problem?