I am building a 414CI 6.0L stroker... should I go iron or alum?
11-15-2004, 09:00 PM
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I am building a 414CI 6.0L stroker... should I go iron or alum? Like the title of my thread says, I am building a 414CI 6.0L stroker to go into my 2002 Z28. The car will see a combination of street and 1/4 duty... I am shooting for a pretty streetable 500RWHP and will be spraying a 150 TNT ring kit. My original plan was to go with an iron block, but I am now thinking about going with an aluminum LS2 block. The price difference is only a couple hundred dollars... I would like to hear some feedback as to which would be the best choice? Thanks!
11-15-2004, 09:04 PM
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The LS2 is going to cost $600 more for the block, but if you dont rebore it, i believe it comes machined and will save you alot of money on machine work. So it might be actually the same price! But will be a 402ci
11-16-2004, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by vmax1500
Some people are telling me the LS2 block 'flexes' more than the iron one and I should not go with an LS2 stroker... is there any thruth to this?
I dont think this would be a problem in your application. Probably wont see much flex until you get up to the 250 shot of nitrous, and even then, minimal, if you have the bottom end built with quality pieces.
11-16-2004, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by C4VetteLS1
The LS2 is going to cost $600 more for the block, but if you dont rebore it, i believe it comes machined and will save you alot of money on machine work. So it might be actually the same price! But will be a 402ci
I am thinking about going with an Eagle forged rotating assembly, what do aer thoughts and how do you like your LS2 stroker, is this something you would reccomend to someone like myself? Thanks again!
11-16-2004, 05:09 PM
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well if you never want to have to worry go with the iron, i do not know much about the ls2 block yet, but if others are doing it then it cant be to bad
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11-17-2004, 02:40 AM
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For light NOS on a street build I don't see why you would have a concern.
If it were seeing A LOT of abuse or cylinder pressure then I'd consider alternatives but for what you're describing the LS2 block should work fine.
$.02
Brian
If it were seeing A LOT of abuse or cylinder pressure then I'd consider alternatives but for what you're describing the LS2 block should work fine.
$.02
Brian
11-17-2004, 03:17 AM
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For any amount of blower or turbo use it wont matter which one you use.
Everyone keeps talking block durability, but why? noones breaking blocks, noones pushing the limits of the iron or aluminum blocks.
So it doesnt matter what your going to run basically, the only decision should come down to weight difference.
Everyone keeps talking block durability, but why? noones breaking blocks, noones pushing the limits of the iron or aluminum blocks.
So it doesnt matter what your going to run basically, the only decision should come down to weight difference.
11-17-2004, 07:26 AM
#10
Exactly! The fastest LS1's in the country (1000+HP) are running aluminum blocks. I am in the middle of building an LS2 stroker, but I am not far enough along with it to help you at all. Hard to work on my own stuff and get the customers stuff out also.
11-17-2004, 08:52 AM
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We have a LS2 stroker runing on the dyno at this time. We used a LS1 Callies crank, LS1 camshaft and LS cylinderheads. We are using a BS3 controller on the dyno to run it. We just ran a extension on the cam sensor wires to the LS2 front cover for cam pulse.
Kurt
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Originally Posted by vmax1500
What you are saying makes sense... but I am trying to figure out if others are actually building LS2 strokers...
11-17-2004, 09:26 AM
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11-17-2004, 10:25 AM
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What are the specs of the engine and what kind of number is it making... will it be going into an F-Body and how have you dealt with the sensor issues... Thanks!
11-17-2004, 01:54 PM
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The engine is a hyd roller cam. compression is 10.7-1. Mahle pistons (small dish) With a LS6 manifold and dyno headers it made 553hp and 523tq at the flywheel. The average's from 3000-6500 are 438hp and 481tq.
The cam sensor wires the same just extended the wires. We don't use knock sensors on the BS3 but that would just be a extension deal also.
We built the engine just to see if all the ls1 crank and cam sensor's would be compatible. We do have a customer that we did head and cam on 2 years ago that may buy the engine and put it in his Camaro.
Kurt
The cam sensor wires the same just extended the wires. We don't use knock sensors on the BS3 but that would just be a extension deal also.
We built the engine just to see if all the ls1 crank and cam sensor's would be compatible. We do have a customer that we did head and cam on 2 years ago that may buy the engine and put it in his Camaro.
Kurt
11-17-2004, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 427
We do have a customer that we did head and cam on 2 years ago that may buy the engine and put it in his Camaro.
Kurt
Kurt
11-17-2004, 02:11 PM
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Generally true. The ls2 is supposed to have a 58x trigger wheel that will not be compatible with ls1 electronics(24x). On this engine we put in a Callies 4 inch ls1 crank. The good part is a 4 inch bore alum block that will work.
Kurt
Kurt
Originally Posted by Chris ARE 385
Kurt,
So you are saying everything works if you just extend the wires? That is amazing and GREAT news!
So you are saying everything works if you just extend the wires? That is amazing and GREAT news!
11-17-2004, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 427
Generally true. The ls2 is supposed to have a 58x trigger wheel that will not be compatible with ls1 electronics(24x). On this engine we put in a Callies 4 inch ls1 crank. The good part is a 4 inch bore alum block that will work.
Kurt
Kurt