Tranzaman00

OK I've done some searching and before I make my final decission what is the best,Biggest,Most powerful or in that area, you guys would reccomend for someone that will be running stock heads for a while (quite awhile!). Also I don't want to do any fly cutting. Is there a cam that will work nicely with stock heads and also work with some stage two heads just as well or better? Basically I would like to get a cam that I can keep when ever I can afford heads.

Thanks,
Shane

Sorry for another cam ? I have been holding of for a while now on posting this thread but not knowing much about them the more searching I do the more confused I get. I want that classic cam sound (choppy and loepy) and I want it to go fast. I want the car to be snapy and respond quick and really wont be pushing the rpms to much so I guess something that works in the lower to mid range.

5POINT7

The TSP 231/237 works great w/ stock heads. It's called the max effort cam for cars w/ stock heads. Responds well to nitrous too and you won't have to spin to 7500 rpms for peak power.

Tranzaman00

What is the lsa on that? I don't plan on running nitrous but then again I guess you never know since this is an addictive hobby.

5POINT7

112+2...it's sitting in my house right now.

Tranzaman00

I hear ya. What does the +2 mean. By the way I got my sound clip up finally of that custom magnaflow job I did. You had wanted to hear it awhile back. It is in the external section under anyone evr tried this. I'm running really rich so don't mind the FIREBALLS and POPS. There is no fly cutting involved with that cam is there?

5POINT7

No, no flycutting of the pistons. The +2 means that the cam has two degrees of advance ground into the cam. But I'm really not sure what that means.

Tranzaman00

OK,OK thanks

Tranzaman00

Any other suggestions guys?

98Raptor

RPM4 cam 232/236 595/601 on 114+4 LSA

stock engine and LS1 intake and picked up 45 rwhp.

http://www.real-performance-motorsports.com/

Tranzaman00

Thanks for you opinion, that is a pretty decent gain. Anymore out there?
What makes the 224/224 so popular wouldn't the last to ststed be more powerful?

98Raptor

the 224 does not need tuneing

With a cam such as the RPM4 or the TSP 231/237 you will need tuneing.

rons 00z

iTrader: (10)

i wonder how the 231/237 cam likes the AFR 205 heads??

98Raptor

What is the lift on the TSP 231/237 cam?

PREDATOR-Z

Taking your requirement into consideration, none of the "bigger cams" in the 230 duration range fit that criteria.

I think you should check VHP (sponsor>>>>>) cams.
They are short duration tight lsa cams with good chop-chop idles that meet your low>midrange criteria.
047 (ASP KICKER CAM)or 055 (THE BOSS) cam would be my choice. PM Joe Vinci he will explain more about his products.

rons 00z

iTrader: (10)

my card says .598 in .595 ex

kossuth

iTrader: (12)

Both setups being optimal IE cylinder heads that match the cam with proper length headers and the proper tuning on both yes a larger cam should make more power to a point, you can actually go too big and make a motor sluggish. But I tend to ask this question. Does everybody have proper headers sized to the powerband of the cam installed? Hell no! Everybody has the off the shelf long tubes which work well but you don't get the max gain out of any particular cam with them. The way it usually works is a longer primary tube lends itself to being alittle more lowend and midrange oriented whereas a shorter primary larger in diameter lends itself to being more topend. Do some searches on here for headers. Compare the midlength Macs with the dyno numbers of some of the long tubes. Depending on the setup a set of Macs with 3" collectors is right there with a set of long tubes on larger cammed cars. Anyways back to the topic at hand. Like Raptor said the 224 generally doesn't need tuning, but I would get it done if it were me. Another factor in all of this is the 224 is alittle more street friendly than a TSP 231/237 or a similar cam. Some people would consider a 224 the largest cam you should go with on a daily driver. It is proven that a 224 on a 114 LSA will get through Cali emissions no problem with the right tuning. Others claim they have gotten through on larger cams but I would never put that kinda faith in something that isn't proven time and time again because if you get flagged as a gross poluter in some states they make you smog every single year and you have to go to a referee station where they do a complete visual inspection just not the local Larry garage that you might be able to slip a $50. Again that is all based on the owner preferance and some like a 231/237 on a DD that doesn't have to get smogged. It's all about what you think it streetable. Take your end goals into consideration and go from there. Some say go alittle bigger than what you want. I say get a plan and stick to it. Again it's all about what you want in the end.

Turo

iTrader: (23)

find a few cams you like and search for them in the dynamometer results forum. i was looking at the tsp 231/237, but a lot of the results with that cam have (IMO) low torque numbers, when compared to a few other cams (NOTE: i am not saying every result was like this for htis cam, i am only saying what i have learned after searching for dybo results of that cam). that all changes if you will be spraying though, the nitrous should give you all the torque you could want

5POINT7

Yeah, the 231/237 isn't a torquey cam. But I don't care, that'll just make it easier to launch with no spin.

Tranzaman00

Thanks for everyones help. From searching it seems like alot of people go with a thunder racing 224, What do you think is the most popular? Popularness in my eyes is somthing that has been proven.

Onyx Z

iTrader: (3)

My vote is for the HPE "S" cam.