Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

A lot of people have great luck picking a cam off the shelf, putting it in their car, and obtaining incredible results on the dyno as well as the track. Then, there's those who skip off the shelf cams and go with custom grinds. I personally, have no clue as where to start building a cam for my application. I am no cam expert, so I would have absolutely no input on what specs to put on a cam for myself.

Now, cams that are mass produced are still custom cams in my opinion. They were still thought up, used, etc. and now are being sold. Just because a cam is mass produced, doesnt mean that its not custom. Obviously, they made that cam for a particular set up. A lot of sponsors, companies, etc. are making cams for stock headed cars. That seems to be a big focus in my opinion because I see more and more trying to maximize their set up, run extremely good times, all with stock heads and bottom end.

Well, the bolt-ons I cant see making that much of a difference between one brand and the other. For instance, let's say one guy has QTP headers, ASP pulley, TSP lid, etc. and another has Kooks headers, March pullley, a MTI lid, etc. What Im getting at is, that when companies make these cams for stock headed cars, they arent making them for those who use this type of header, or that brand of lid, or this type of tranny, etc.

So how can someone who is looking for the ultimate cam for stock heads need to go custom specifically for his application? There are so many cams out there that are mass produced and that are considered off the shelf cams for stock headed applications, so why isnt there one that will work the best for me? I have 4.10s in my automatic equipped set up, but how many drag racers have these gears...lots of them. I have a Yank PT4400, how many have this converter...lots of them. Even if it isnt a Yank converter, a lot of them run a 4400 stalled converter. How many are running all or most bolt-ons on thier drag cars, pretty much all of them.

What Im getting at is, even though I have my "own" set up, it is so much alike than everyone elses. Its not like my set up is so far off from everyone else's. My set up may differ a little, but nothing that would affect, or at least I wouldnt think it, the specs on a cam.

So basically what Im saying is, that all the cams that are out there produced by the sponsors for stock headed cars arent made for one particular converter, one paticular gear ratio, etc. I know every car is going to put out different numbers on the dyno and at the track even, even if they were built identicle. My set up is similar and may be identical to a lot of set ups here and that is why I "think" that there is a cam for me that I can buy off the shelf. If not, Im not going to argue it because I myself am not a cam expert. I merely stating my opinion. If indeed there isnt a cam out there for me, then I will start calling up the sponsors trying to get one built specifically for my application.

I know my set up, I know everything that Im running, I know what I want out of the car, I know my goals, etc. and I want the perfect cam for my car to give me best results. I want to do this with a stock bottom end and stock heads...as many do as well. Lets say that I decide not to choose a cam that is off the shelf and have a sponsor custom build me one. Do you really think its going to differ that much from a cam that is mass produced. Let me clarify that, Im not just saying any mass produced cam, but cams that are specifically made for stock headed cars. There are lots out there and differ, but if someone came up with a cam specifically for me, do you really think its going to be that much different than cams out there that I could of chosen for my application? Yeah, it may be different than a lot of them, but they are going to be very similar because the cam I want and need for my application is very similar to what has already been made. Again, my set up and goals arent rare. A lot of people want to go fast with stock heads and bottom end. Anyhow, enough with my rambling, what are your thoughts on this?

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

By the way, Im not trying to start an arguement, **** anyone off, etc. I just want to hear opinions on this subject without reading sarcastic, rude, insulting, etc. replies. I know that Ive been on this cam issue for a while, but if you dont like it or it bothers you, dont take the time to read it, muchless reply. I wanna keep this thread clean as possible and focus on the subject. Thanks.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Kinda wrote a book there.

Since you are stock heads, bottom end, I would go with off the shelf. I would only go custom for a stroker, or power adder.

I'm impressed with the T-Rex, and the G5X2 and G5X4(Jugger) for heads up racing. They all lope pretty hard.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Dont know too much about the G5X-2 and Juggernaut, other than the Juggernaut being in the fastest cam only car. Also, that the G5X-2 was replaced by the G5X-3, and that the Juggernaut is considered the G5X-4. I havent really researched these cams, but my guess would be that the Juggernaut's specs may be a little too much for my application. I may be wrong though. I have looked into the T-Rex. Its powerband is a little high for me. I couldnt spin my motor high enough safely to obtain full power from it. The T-Rex's powerband is from 3500 to 6700 and most using this cam are getting best results shifting around 7000 rpms. I have a 2000 model car and those spinning their motors that high have either an 01 or 02 car. From what Ive read, the bottom ends were a little stronger. All that are using the T-Rex and are shifting so far after the peak, are 6 speed guys. They shift so high so that they can keep higher into the powerband, dropping less, staying in the higher portion. The T-Rex is a good cam, no doubt, but I cant spin my motor that high to benefit from it. I dont know what my motor could handle, but Im going to be on the safe side and not shift it any higher than 6600 rpms.

hellbents10

iTrader: (10)

You could switch out the rod bolts. With your converter the T-rex would work great. Also to obtain huge numbrs and the power it takes to go 10's in a cam only car you are going to have to spin it. Thats simply were the power is at the longer you keep the valves open and to the right extent is were power will be made. When you do that the trade off is a high peaky power band. In most cases anyway.

DAPSUPRSLO

iTrader: (14)

Well if that is the case then look at something with a tighter lobe separation angle (lower numerically) then what is out there now as well as smaller duration to avoid pidston to valve issues unless you are willing to cut; however, one thing you have to remember is that just because you don't want to spin the car to 7000 doesn't mean the car won't be making more power in the rpm range that matters for racing (4500-6600 in your case) then a cam which peaks earlier.

I would be interested in helping you out later with your cam choice if you are interested (I am at work right now and don't have enough time to think up a cam for your setup right this second).

If not ask some others, pleanty of good information on this Site.

Sport Side

iTrader: (6)

If you're looking to meet a standard, or your goal. What better way to do that to optimize it with the camshaft to fit your needs.

Go Custom, or follow some guidelines to pick out the best. Both categories cost about the same.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

hellbents10: I dont wanna swap out the rod bolts because from what Ive been told and read, changing the rod bolts isnt the right way to do it. I dont remember exactly what needs to be done along with swapping of the rod bolts, but the motor has to come out and I dont have plans for that just yet.

DAPSUPRSLO: Whatever cam I choose, I dont want to flycut the pistons. What Im looking for is a cam that will be most beneficial and peaks around 6300-6400 rpms that way I can shift just past it at 6600 rpms. Since Im using a Yank PT4400, I guess I would want the cam to make its most power between 4400 rpms and 6400 rpms. Ive always been told that you want to shift the car about 100-200 rpms past your peak. Less if you have an auto and a converter with good shift extension.

mrr23

iTrader: (3)

http://www.vincihighperformance.com/...%20LS1%202.htm

for an 'off the shelf' cam that'll work well with stock heads, go with the 055 to fit your requirement of wanting to get to 6400 rpms. VHP is currently running it in their C5 test car. link to the test car is under that cam number. no fly cutting of pistons is required. you have more than enough converter also.

jrp

iTrader: (16)

for the love of god....

PREDATOR-Z

.......use he search button.

Just thought I'd finish your sentence.

TSP 233 (torquer), TSP 231/237, TSP MS3, FM 11, MTI G1 .......and the list goes on.

anoldsman

I can help you pick out a custom grind cam for your application. Just PM me and I will give you my email address and phone number.

Chris

The Juggernaut

iTrader: (7)

BTW-
The Juggernaut cam is smaller than the T-Rex, that part I do know.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

T-Rex peaked in the low 6000's in Fireball's car, some folks might be shifting some of these cams too high.

Sport Side

iTrader: (6)

I thought he had valve float

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

01-Z: Are you sure??? I figured the G5X-2 and G5X-3 were pretty big, then the Juggernaut had to be even bigger. Do you happen to have a dyno graph for naturally aspirated?

PSJ: Yeah it peaked at 6200 on Fireball's car, but then he retarded the cam and gained from it. People shift the car so high because they want to stay in the higher portion of the powerband, where it makes more power. These are 6 speed guys and they have to do that because of the big drop in between shifts. I wonder if I would be able to get away with it since I had a high stall converter with good shift extension. (Yank PT440) Also, how come it peaked so early in Fireball's car, the cam's powerband is between 3500 and 6700 rpms.

02Reaper

iTrader: (2)

Not meaning to **** you off or anything but think about if everyone hit the search button everytime They wanted to know something. You run into a bunch of old replies with old issues. Maybe something has improved since the post was written, but nobody wanted to go through pages and pages to find it and then post their current experience.

jrp

iTrader: (16)

this FTLOG isnt fo searching, its about him asking the same **** over and over and over without being able to comprehend the info and advice that dozens of people have given him. i think he'd drive a custom cam grinder crazy...

Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

Yeah call anoldsman aka-Chris. I am sure he tell you more than anyone on here has told you already. And maybe he can get you to take some of his advice.

cyphur

iTrader: (10)

This is the real problem here. With the dozens upon dozens of questions that BB's asked, and the hundreds of thoughtful replies I've seen and a few that I've posted, he has trouble assimiliating all the information. Which is why he doesn't use the search button.

You don't need a custom cam yet man. There are tons of cams out there that can take you to your goals. But honestly if you aren't willing to do what it takes(ie replace rod bolts) for this goal, why are you going after it? I've seen you say that you don't have the money for a complete rebuild right now. If thats the case, I'd rethink going after a stock bottom record, b/c pushing the stock bottom too far has had a disastrous history with these cars minus the crank.