Escalade engine
#1
Escalade engine
Some very fundamental questions since I am not LS1/2/6 savvy.
I was looking at buying a good used LS1 motor for a project car but came accross the GMPP Escalade engine which is rated at 345HP and is very competively priced at $3790 see:
http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/120/...ate-Engine.htm
It has a 6 liter iron block and weighs just 65LBS more than an aluminum block according to GM.
I will be happy with about 400+RWHP so I intend to swap out the cam initially to achieve this level of performance with a slightly better redline of 6200RPM hopefully and as time progresses perhaps use AFR heads to bump up power some more.
Questions:
1) Is this engine a viable proposition for my purpose?
2) Is it going to be able to withstand the higher RPMs (briefly) without a head swap?
3) Is 400RWHP achievable with just a cam swap?
4) What will I need to do for an ECU/harness (basically a hot rod application)?
5) Will I need sophisticated fuel remapping for the cam swap or is the stock ECU able to handle the addition of a new cam?
6) Do you guys have a better solution/ideas?
Thanks in advance
I was looking at buying a good used LS1 motor for a project car but came accross the GMPP Escalade engine which is rated at 345HP and is very competively priced at $3790 see:
http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/120/...ate-Engine.htm
It has a 6 liter iron block and weighs just 65LBS more than an aluminum block according to GM.
I will be happy with about 400+RWHP so I intend to swap out the cam initially to achieve this level of performance with a slightly better redline of 6200RPM hopefully and as time progresses perhaps use AFR heads to bump up power some more.
Questions:
1) Is this engine a viable proposition for my purpose?
2) Is it going to be able to withstand the higher RPMs (briefly) without a head swap?
3) Is 400RWHP achievable with just a cam swap?
4) What will I need to do for an ECU/harness (basically a hot rod application)?
5) Will I need sophisticated fuel remapping for the cam swap or is the stock ECU able to handle the addition of a new cam?
6) Do you guys have a better solution/ideas?
Thanks in advance
#2
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1) u don't say what ur putting it in, but y not?
2) under 5800rpm unless u change valve springs, which i hope ur doing with a cam swap...
3) u'll need a big cam, but can be done, most likely 380-390 with an auto trans
4) 1 of the computer companies who specialize in FI engines in older cars... can't think of a name now, guy i work with had 1 made for his '55 with LS1/4L60e
5) will need some tweaking, depending on cam size, trans and other stuff
6) sounds good to me
2) under 5800rpm unless u change valve springs, which i hope ur doing with a cam swap...
3) u'll need a big cam, but can be done, most likely 380-390 with an auto trans
4) 1 of the computer companies who specialize in FI engines in older cars... can't think of a name now, guy i work with had 1 made for his '55 with LS1/4L60e
5) will need some tweaking, depending on cam size, trans and other stuff
6) sounds good to me
#3
Hi Matt,
Thanks for the information - the engine is going into an ULTIMA GTR.
I want to start with around 400+ RWHP until I get familiar with the car. I am an old Porsche guy (no flames please) but built a few small blocks about 15 years ago. Still love the chev small block; I think the GTR is the perfect chassis for it.
Thanks for the information - the engine is going into an ULTIMA GTR.
I want to start with around 400+ RWHP until I get familiar with the car. I am an old Porsche guy (no flames please) but built a few small blocks about 15 years ago. Still love the chev small block; I think the GTR is the perfect chassis for it.
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Originally Posted by CANNIBAL
The iron block weighs a lot more than 65 lbs more than the aluminum block.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...935357886&rd=1
#6
The 2005 Corvette uses the 6.0L with the 2001 LS6 cam and runs 400hp/400tq at the flywheel. Dynos are showing it around 350rwhp in stock form, but it is known the PCM is dictating reduced timing in the upper rpm range(keeps the toque band flat longer). The 2002 LS6 cam should work with no problems and with the tuning most are able to do with LS1/LS6 PCMs, you should easily hit 400rwhp with good headers and intake(many 2002 + Z06s have made very close to 400rwhp with just bolt on mods, so 6.0L should help you push over 400rwhp).
The iron block is somewhere between 65lbs and 80lbs heavier than the LS1/LS6 block.
Todd
The iron block is somewhere between 65lbs and 80lbs heavier than the LS1/LS6 block.
Todd
#7
Originally Posted by WhiteDiamond
The 2005 Corvette uses the 6.0L with the 2001 LS6 cam and runs 400hp/400tq at the flywheel. Dynos are showing it around 350rwhp in stock form, but it is known the PCM is dictating reduced timing in the upper rpm range(keeps the toque band flat longer). The 2002 LS6 cam should work with no problems and with the tuning most are able to do with LS1/LS6 PCMs, you should easily hit 400rwhp with good headers and intake(many 2002 + Z06s have made very close to 400rwhp with just bolt on mods, so 6.0L should help you push over 400rwhp).
The iron block is somewhere between 65lbs and 80lbs heavier than the LS1/LS6 block.
Todd
The iron block is somewhere between 65lbs and 80lbs heavier than the LS1/LS6 block.
Todd
Thanks for the comprehensive reply - it will definitely help me make the correct choice for an engine purchase.
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Good luck on building that Ultima! Wish I could get myself one. If I was in the same situation as you, I would go with the aluminum block because of the weight. Iron shouldn't be too bad in your planned setup though becuase it is a rear engine car, right? Maybe the extra weight could help with traction.
BTW, there is a vid in the multimedia secton of an Ultima GTR with a GM small block doing 0-100-0 again in around 10 seconds!
BTW, there is a vid in the multimedia secton of an Ultima GTR with a GM small block doing 0-100-0 again in around 10 seconds!
#9
I can sell you the 6.0 brand new complete drop in motor for much less. This includes coil packs, all sensors, water pump, flywheel, etc.
I would go with the 6.0 Iron block, you can't believe how much power you can into this motor, without problems. It's well known for it's ability to handle enormous amounts of power, and if just want to keep it stock, it's life expectancy would be superior to an aluminum block engine. They are very smooth compared to any of the smaller Gen 3 engines. I think the 6.0 stroked to a 408 is a master piece to put in your car or truck. Give me a call if your interested in one of my 6.0's 817-988-4760
Skip White
I would go with the 6.0 Iron block, you can't believe how much power you can into this motor, without problems. It's well known for it's ability to handle enormous amounts of power, and if just want to keep it stock, it's life expectancy would be superior to an aluminum block engine. They are very smooth compared to any of the smaller Gen 3 engines. I think the 6.0 stroked to a 408 is a master piece to put in your car or truck. Give me a call if your interested in one of my 6.0's 817-988-4760
Skip White
#10
Originally Posted by SRT VIPER
I can sell you the 6.0 brand new complete drop in motor for much less. This includes coil packs, all sensors, water pump, flywheel, etc.
I would go with the 6.0 Iron block, you can't believe how much power you can into this motor, without problems. It's well known for it's ability to handle enormous amounts of power, and if just want to keep it stock, it's life expectancy would be superior to an aluminum block engine. They are very smooth compared to any of the smaller Gen 3 engines. I think the 6.0 stroked to a 408 is a master piece to put in your car or truck. Give me a call if your interested in one of my 6.0's 817-988-4760
Skip White
I would go with the 6.0 Iron block, you can't believe how much power you can into this motor, without problems. It's well known for it's ability to handle enormous amounts of power, and if just want to keep it stock, it's life expectancy would be superior to an aluminum block engine. They are very smooth compared to any of the smaller Gen 3 engines. I think the 6.0 stroked to a 408 is a master piece to put in your car or truck. Give me a call if your interested in one of my 6.0's 817-988-4760
Skip White
Thanks - I will be calling you soon
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Questions:
4) What will I need to do for an ECU/harness (basically a hot rod application)?
Speartech can make a harness and has decent prices.
5) Will I need sophisticated fuel remapping for the cam swap or is the stock ECU able to handle the addition of a new cam?
A dyno tune would produce best result. If your not close enough to someone for a dyno tune, you could get a mail order tune.
Thanks in advance[/QUOTE]
4) What will I need to do for an ECU/harness (basically a hot rod application)?
Speartech can make a harness and has decent prices.
5) Will I need sophisticated fuel remapping for the cam swap or is the stock ECU able to handle the addition of a new cam?
A dyno tune would produce best result. If your not close enough to someone for a dyno tune, you could get a mail order tune.
Thanks in advance[/QUOTE]
#13
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I will find out how much the lq4/9 wieghs in at when i get my block back from the shop. I will also weigh the ls1 just to put the beast to rest.
345hp is at the fly not the ground so they say. I had a budy do 375 at the rear though his lq9 with a cam only.
You will need to have the PCM tuned.
My buddy was spinning his lq9 to 6500 all time so i would asome that you could do the same.
345hp is at the fly not the ground so they say. I had a budy do 375 at the rear though his lq9 with a cam only.
You will need to have the PCM tuned.
My buddy was spinning his lq9 to 6500 all time so i would asome that you could do the same.
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Originally Posted by goober35
I will find out how much the lq4/9 wieghs in at when i get my block back from the shop. I will also weigh the ls1 just to put the beast to rest.