Help with benchmarking
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Help with benchmarking
Hello to all! I'm the proud, new, first-time owner of an LS1-powered vehicle. Not only that, but prior to purchase four days ago, I'd never even driven an LS1-powered car. Because of that, I have no clue if the car is performing like it should.
A little background: It's a '00 Camaro SS with 32,000 mi. It has the 6-speed overdrive manual gear box. Beyond that, I'm unsure. I bought it with the service engine soon light on. Took it in and was told the O2 sensor needed to be replaced. After having it replaced and headed home, not five miles from the dealer, the light came back on. I immediately suspected a bad cat. Sure enough the next day when I took it in, the code was for the cat. They replaced both cats even though the code was only for the driver's side.
All of this has made me wonder if there's something inherently wrong with my car's system. I'm wondering if maybe it's been responsible for the failures, and that they will return in time if the root problem is not addressed.
My question is this: Are there tests or procedures that one should go through to baseline or benchmark his used LS1 and then compare that to something to see if his car is within expected or acceptable tolerances.
If you can't already tell from this, I'm the type of person where peace of mind is worth a ton! I'd love to know that my car's stock performance is an appropriate foundation for further HP mods. I sure don't want to build my proverbial house on a foundation of sand.
I've read many threads where dyno tests are suggested. Is this what I need to do? What about the tuning I've heard so much about? Or is that something that I should only do AFTER I make my mods? What about leak-down tests or maybe checking the timing? I know these are old-school tests (but so am I ). Or is there no need for those things any more because of all of the sensors and the computer?
Thank you all, in advance, for your help!
A little background: It's a '00 Camaro SS with 32,000 mi. It has the 6-speed overdrive manual gear box. Beyond that, I'm unsure. I bought it with the service engine soon light on. Took it in and was told the O2 sensor needed to be replaced. After having it replaced and headed home, not five miles from the dealer, the light came back on. I immediately suspected a bad cat. Sure enough the next day when I took it in, the code was for the cat. They replaced both cats even though the code was only for the driver's side.
All of this has made me wonder if there's something inherently wrong with my car's system. I'm wondering if maybe it's been responsible for the failures, and that they will return in time if the root problem is not addressed.
My question is this: Are there tests or procedures that one should go through to baseline or benchmark his used LS1 and then compare that to something to see if his car is within expected or acceptable tolerances.
If you can't already tell from this, I'm the type of person where peace of mind is worth a ton! I'd love to know that my car's stock performance is an appropriate foundation for further HP mods. I sure don't want to build my proverbial house on a foundation of sand.
I've read many threads where dyno tests are suggested. Is this what I need to do? What about the tuning I've heard so much about? Or is that something that I should only do AFTER I make my mods? What about leak-down tests or maybe checking the timing? I know these are old-school tests (but so am I ). Or is there no need for those things any more because of all of the sensors and the computer?
Thank you all, in advance, for your help!
#2
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Yeah I would definitly take it to the dyno to see what its putting down, you should be right around 310 rwhp. Since your going to mod it anyway its a good place to start. As far as a tune I would get HP Tuners or LS1 Edit.
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when i bought mine, same thing, SES light on, got one cat replaced, light came on again, got the other replaced, besides dyno, take it to the track, should run somewhere in the low to mid 13s
if you want to find out more about your car, look up the RPO codes, the GUx(replace x with a number) will tell you what gears you have in the rear, i think M6 have 3.42 which ive been told also comes with a stock aluminum driveshaft
an LS1 with 36,000 miles, unless you hear somthing ticking or knocking, i dont think you should have anything wrong, as for the cats my car had 43,000 and they were both bad
and congratulations on the new car
if you want to find out more about your car, look up the RPO codes, the GUx(replace x with a number) will tell you what gears you have in the rear, i think M6 have 3.42 which ive been told also comes with a stock aluminum driveshaft
an LS1 with 36,000 miles, unless you hear somthing ticking or knocking, i dont think you should have anything wrong, as for the cats my car had 43,000 and they were both bad
and congratulations on the new car
#5
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Originally Posted by HawksLSS1
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A little background: It's a '00 Camaro SS with 32,000 mi. It has the 6-speed overdrive manual gear box. Beyond that, I'm unsure. I bought it with the service engine soon light on. Took it in and was told the O2 sensor needed to be replaced. After having it replaced and headed home, not five miles from the dealer, the light came back on. I immediately suspected a bad cat. Sure enough the next day when I took it in, the code was for the cat. They replaced both cats even though the code was only for the driver's side.
A little background: It's a '00 Camaro SS with 32,000 mi. It has the 6-speed overdrive manual gear box. Beyond that, I'm unsure. I bought it with the service engine soon light on. Took it in and was told the O2 sensor needed to be replaced. After having it replaced and headed home, not five miles from the dealer, the light came back on. I immediately suspected a bad cat. Sure enough the next day when I took it in, the code was for the cat. They replaced both cats even though the code was only for the driver's side.
Oh, I hope you didnt have to pay for having the cats replaced, they are coverd untill like 75,000 miles under warranty
Im not sure where Rowlett, TX is but if its anything like it is here in San Angelo(west TX), the normal for an A4 f-body is 13.9x-14.2x a 6 Spd with a good driver 13.7x-14.1x baised on about 7 diff LS1 f-bodies. Only saying this so if you do take her to the track & dont run a low 13 you wont be bummed out.
#6
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Originally Posted by 69_YENKO
My '00 SS had 29,000 when i got it right around 32-33,000 i got a code took it in and had the passenger side cat replaced with in 300 miles the drivers side cat failed and was replaced. it drives/ runs like a champ now just hit 39,000 this week and no more problems.
Oh, I hope you didnt have to pay for having the cats replaced, they are coverd untill like 75,000 miles under warranty
Im not sure where Rowlett, TX is but if its anything like it is here in San Angelo(west TX), the normal for an A4 f-body is 13.9x-14.2x a 6 Spd with a good driver 13.7x-14.1x baised on about 7 diff LS1 f-bodies. Only saying this so if you do take her to the track & dont run a low 13 you wont be bummed out.
Oh, I hope you didnt have to pay for having the cats replaced, they are coverd untill like 75,000 miles under warranty
Im not sure where Rowlett, TX is but if its anything like it is here in San Angelo(west TX), the normal for an A4 f-body is 13.9x-14.2x a 6 Spd with a good driver 13.7x-14.1x baised on about 7 diff LS1 f-bodies. Only saying this so if you do take her to the track & dont run a low 13 you wont be bummed out.
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Originally Posted by 69_YENKO
My '00 SS had 29,000 when i got it right around 32-33,000 i got a code took it in and had the passenger side cat replaced with in 300 miles the drivers side cat failed and was replaced. it drives/ runs like a champ now just hit 39,000 this week and no more problems.
Oh, I hope you didnt have to pay for having the cats replaced, they are coverd untill like 75,000 miles under warranty
Im not sure where Rowlett, TX is but if its anything like it is here in San Angelo(west TX), the normal for an A4 f-body is 13.9x-14.2x a 6 Spd with a good driver 13.7x-14.1x baised on about 7 diff LS1 f-bodies. Only saying this so if you do take her to the track & dont run a low 13 you wont be bummed out.
Oh, I hope you didnt have to pay for having the cats replaced, they are coverd untill like 75,000 miles under warranty
Im not sure where Rowlett, TX is but if its anything like it is here in San Angelo(west TX), the normal for an A4 f-body is 13.9x-14.2x a 6 Spd with a good driver 13.7x-14.1x baised on about 7 diff LS1 f-bodies. Only saying this so if you do take her to the track & dont run a low 13 you wont be bummed out.
oh i didnt see he lives in TX, so i guess i over rated it with low 13s
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Im not sure where Rowlett, TX is but if its anything like it is here in San Angelo(west TX), the normal for an A4 f-body is 13.9x-14.2x a 6 Spd with a good driver 13.7x-14.1x baised on about 7 diff LS1 f-bodies. Only saying this so if you do take her to the track & dont run a low 13 you wont be bummed out.
oh i didnt see he lives in TX, so i guess i over rated it with low 13s
#11
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Originally Posted by HawksLSS1
Rowlett is a suburb of Dallas. I live as far east Dallas County as you can get. Lake Ray Hubbard is to the east and then comes Rockwall and Rockwall county as you continue to move eastward...
Why is it that Texas cars run slower ETs? Is it because of the heat, I'm assuming, and the density of the oxygen content in the air?
Why is it that Texas cars run slower ETs? Is it because of the heat, I'm assuming, and the density of the oxygen content in the air?
I think GM rates there cars at the tailshaft. plus the f-bodies are under rated
RWHP of a 6spd is usualy around 310-315,
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Originally Posted by HawksLSS1
Thanks for the replies! Can I really expect that much rear wheel HP?!?!
Aren't the numbers GM puts out (325 HP) reflective of HP at the crank?
Aren't the numbers GM puts out (325 HP) reflective of HP at the crank?
back in the 70's the government mandated that all HP rating be taken at the wheels