Street Racing & Kill Stories - Power for the $

Dont want to start any flame wars, and I love the F-bodies (used to own a 95' Trans Am Fully loaded) But i had some interesting experiences with the mustang crowd. Most were scared to race (I never raced a GT on the street other than a 89', due to the fact that they were all scared to go at it with a TA) The 89' had 14.0 timeslips to back it up and we raced from 20 to 55mph (due to the fact that i knew they guy and he knew i had 2.73's and and A4 and he gave me a fair shot with the rolling start) I BARELY pulled on him (mabey 1/3 car max). HE had bolt ons and 3.55's and a T5. I was impressed. Fast Foreward.....Raced and LS1 Ta A4 with mods (the guy sandbagged and said just a chip...I could smell that gutted cat though). The results? Rolling at 55 he destroyed me. Stop to 60 he won by 1.5 cars 0-the end of first gear, I took him by about 2/3 car. If i had had 3.23's i think it would have been a different game slightly. Fast foreward...Sold the Trans Am and bought an 88 5.0, bought a new motor (rated at 340hp/340tq) and am currently installing 4.10's and a Lentech AOD. Stiffening the unibody, and converting to mass air metering. The whole point of this post: I stumbled across a "F-body vs. Stang" post (some guy ...Bullet was being an Idiot and giving 'Stangers a bad name *apologizes for the Idiot and shows him back to his village.* You guys are dead on, an F-body Ls1 will take ANY stock mustang Gt by about 2-3 cars in the 1/4 on average. Here is my point for the Stangs though...my 5.0 TOTAL PORJECT is costing me around $8,000 (that includes the car). For 8,000 I should put about 275 hp and 275 TQ to the ground...less than a 6M F-body...but i also weigh about 400 lbs less...so for power to weight, lets adjust it..275+40hp and 400 lbs= F-body weight and 305 hp/tq RWHP. Take into consideration the drag radials, 4.10 gears, and Lentech Auto and i should post 1/4's in the 12's. To get my F-body in that area (initial car cost $4,500) I would need gears $200 a computer re-programmer $300 (we are up to 5K) that would have me in the mid 13's I then would need headers and catback (another 500 or so for 5500) Also a shift kit $100. Then i would need an aluminum shaft and a series 2 carrier for my gear swap being as i was originally with 2.73's and those two would run about 500$ combined (up to 6K). At that point i would be in the low 13's, add a stall and 400$ and i MIGHT break 12's, but i would still have a Transmission and engine with over 170K miles on it and this is opposed to the 'Stang i bought which will have an entirely brand new powertrain, and much stronger 8.8 rear end. OR i could have bought an Ls1 for 12K... The point is, stock a mustang really does suck the big one (but not as much as the new GTO, who the HELL decided a chevy cavalier with RWD and an LS6 was a statement????!!!!). But if you want to go 12's a 5.0 Fox is THE CHEAPEST way to get there. I read a post about a guy who got into the 12's for less than 3K INCLUDING THE CAR with a 5.0 Fox. The F-bodies will handle better, but that can be fixed for another $5-700. So while yes, in stock for the Ls1's are king, I still like my lowly modded stang. Also, for the record, a stock 04 GT will run between 13.8-14.2 (that was a point of contention in the other post) A stock Ls1 6M will run 13.2-13.6

just taggin along. I want to see what the "brains" of the outfit have to say.

pmh

That's a big ass block of text. Maybe I'll get around to it another time.

The 89' had 14.0 timeslips to back it up and we raced from 20 to 55mph

A 14.0 would definitely take out every single GT EVER :judge: :gay:

I agree with you that Mustangs are cheap to modify. My best friend and I are currently getting his 89 Coupe finished. We just put a 351 Windsor in it. He has less in it than I do in my SS or Vette.

The aftermarket is crazy for fox body 5.0 mustangs.

Good luck with it.

Just thought I would throw in my $.02

The price advantage of a 89 Fox Body, is about the same advantage a LS1 F-body has over a 03/04 Cobra. Think about it. In the end its just the same arguement that everyone has for how cheap a car is to modify. Not to mention one of the major mods you listed was the Fox body being 400 pounds lighter. Weight reduction is free [May not look great but it is] well to a point it is. So a F-body can play those games too, then it could put in a nice cam mods for a shot of nitrious and 4.10's and be in the 10's [Ask Hot Rod, they can show you].

Now am I saying you are wrong about this? No, not at all. Fox Bodys are very cheap, with a huge aftermarket. I just think the Power for the money thing, depends on what you look at, or what look you want.

... To get my F-body in that area (initial car cost $4,500) I would need gears $200 a computer re-programmer $300 (we are up to 5K) that would have me in the mid 13's I then would need headers and catback (another 500 or so for 5500) Also a shift kit $100. Then i would need an aluminum shaft and a series 2 carrier for my gear swap being as i was originally with 2.73's and those two would run about 500$ combined (up to 6K). At that point i would be in the low 13's, add a stall and 400$ and i MIGHT break 12's...

I hope sincerly your talking about an LT1. If I had that many mods on an ls1 and wasnt running low 12s I'd kick myself in the nutts and buy a civic.

:cry: paragraphs are your friend....

people are taking ls1's into the low 13s before all this work. i'll give it to ya that you got the 2.73 auto... but i got a 98 m6, w/o even a lid that went 13.4, someone else could have squeezed another .1 or .2 out of her, because i just got thing.

all in all though very true, but break it up a little, it was hard to stay on the same line.

I hope sincerly your talking about an LT1. If I had that many mods on an ls1 and wasnt running low 12s I'd kick myself in the nutts and buy a civic.
Exactly what I was thinking. With only a Stall, an A4 LS1 can break 12's.

Why do people insist on posting this shit in the street racing section? :confused:

This has little to nothing to do with street racing. The focus is totally on something else.

Take into consideration the drag radials, 4.10 gears, and Lentech Auto and i should post 1/4's in the 12's. To get my F-body in that area (initial car cost $4,500) I would need gears $200 a computer re-programmer $300 (we are up to 5K) that would have me in the mid 13's I then would need headers and catback (another 500 or so for 5500) Also a shift kit $100. Then i would need an aluminum shaft and a series 2 carrier for my gear swap being as i was originally with 2.73's and those two would run about 500$ combined (up to 6K). At that point i would be in the low 13's, add a stall and 400$ and i MIGHT break 12's
u talk about putting drag radials and 4.10s on ur fox body to run 12s, yet when u talk about an LT1 or LS1 u dance around these mods with computer tuning, and shift kit and headers etc.
in reality if u get a pair of slicks or drag radials, some 4.10s and a stall on an ls1 u will be running 12s all day, let alone if u have exhaust, headers, lid and a tune (11s!!!!!!!!!)

That's a big ass block of text. Maybe I'll get around to it another time.

:werd:

For those that spend stupid amounts on money on lt1s and get no where..what the hell is your problem??

250.00 (Gm847 or CC306..take your pick)
150.00 set of used shortys (I had BBK)
150.00 (cost of tuning cable and software)
300.00 (sticky tires..DRs)

Add a set of sticky tires and some minor weight removal (spare tire/jack, back seats if you feel like it) and you should see 12s NO PROBLEM. The car should already be a high 13/low 14 second car at ~100mph...(my auto ran 14.10 @ 97mph on 2.1 60ft bone stock in mid june heat. Its not like getting to mid to low 13s in an LT1 takes much more than tire, cai and headers... Its been done. I just threw in the cam/programming to ensure victory. ;) I can get it done for under a grand. :P

At the end of the day your cheap 12 sec. Mustang is still, well, a fox-body Stang. For a couple grand more you can have a 12 year newer F-Body with better technology, more reliabe, better options etc...

Where do you get these prices from?
I look through the classifieds every weekend and a a4 98 Z can be had for about 6 grand every other week!
Forget a stall, just get a transbrake and dr's or slicks and you've got a 12 second car.
BTW a 95 is an LT-1, which is WAY different from an LS-1!

At the end of the day your cheap 12 sec. Mustang is still, well, a fox-body Stang. For a couple grand more you can have a 12 year newer F-Body with better technology, more reliabe, better options etc...

I wouldnt say better technology. They use alot of the same technology just with a few improvements. Hell a 351 windsor will hang with a stock ls1.

For those that spend stupid amounts on money on lt1s and get no where..what the hell is your problem??

250.00 (Gm847 or CC306..take your pick)
150.00 set of used shortys (I had BBK)
150.00 (cost of tuning cable and software)
300.00 (sticky tires..DRs)

Add a set of sticky tires and some minor weight removal (spare tire/jack, back seats if you feel like it) and you should see 12s NO PROBLEM. The car should already be a high 13/low 14 second car at ~100mph...(my auto ran 14.10 @ 97mph on 2.1 60ft bone stock in mid june heat. Its not like getting to mid to low 13s in an LT1 takes much more than tire, cai and headers... Its been done. I just threw in the cam/programming to ensure victory. ;) I can get it done for under a grand. :P

:werd:

A few years ago when I more active in the racing I saw an LS1 SS run low 12s with slicks & skinnies, Draglites, headers, a cutout and a converter. He might've dropped the sway bar but I'm not sure. I'm fairly certain he had the stock 3.23s in it.

:wrongforu I don't think there even is a forum for that monologue....and for good reason


:playboy: That was a lot of reading.....and nothing of any great interest was conveyed:

95lt1 > 89 5.0....yup
ls1ta > 95lt1......yup

go build your 8k mustang and come race my 8k z28, then we'll have something worthy of the "kill stories" section

From what i know, sticky tires on the 7.5 rear end is asking for it. Also, more reliable?? That is up for debate...one word (pertaining to LT1) OPTISPARK. But yes, its all in what you want to do, I simply mean top speed for bottom dollar, i payed 1K for my car in running shape with perfect interior and 95% exterior condition, for 1.5K more i could have done nitrous, stall, and gears and gone 11's. Would have been VERY unreliable, but hey...if speed were all that counted. 11's for $2500....But i agree, the LS1 is a beast.

we have 10 bolt rear ends, and on auto's they hold up alot better. but thats besides the point. this point has probably already been made but i'll reiterate, IMO, ls1 cars are sleek and sexy, and even if your fox body is quicker, mine looks a helluva lot better. as far as price vs speed is concerned, excluding the price of the car the new cobras smoke us, and we smoke just about everything else. i would rather have a hot car that can smoke most other cars then a rustang thats a lot cheaper and a little faster.

Looks are subjective, I always liked the Fox bodies, the Ls1 WS6's look mean, Dunno, just old school i guess, Also, something that doesnt matter, but i have only heard 1 LS1 that i really liked, a have heard a lot of 5.0s thatll raise the roof (VERY SUBJECTIVE, just a personal observation applicable probably only to me)

BTW, IMHO, the new cobras are not worth it, too heavy, sure, its fast, but for the price i would grab a WS6 and lightly mod it, ill concede that point readily, last WS6 2002 model i believe, no older than 2000 im sure, i saw for sale was asking price of 16.5K and it had under 20K on the odometer, was fullydecked out, black leather, A4 i think, and ran like a house a-fire i would bet. Hrmmm...another 15K to reach the price of the cobra, there is no WAY i could make this car into the 10's or even 9's is there....MUCH better potential vs. the $ than the Cobra, MUCH BETTER!

was was talking about $ on performance, not including the cost of the car, when i said that about the cobra. IMO every mustang i hear sounds the same, and my car has a distinctive sound (not many ls1's in my area). I dunno about those fox bodies, some i like and some i dont, maybe one day i'll get a rustang project car, but who knows! I do think mustangs sound good tho, but they all sound alike imo.

My LS1 is pretty. nuff said.

with a .542 lift cam my 5.0 should sound distictive enough

If you took an automagic ls1 and threw bfg or et street drag radials, a nitrous convertor, tranny cooler, colder plugs, and a 150 shot on it.. Remove front sway bar, and a little weight.. I have a feeling you could reach mid 11's for under $1500... Ask unit :)

Do that in a foxbody.. your starting off nearly a second slower, so it'd be a little more difficult.. seeing as how a good convertor costs about the same thing for both cars, and drag radials obviously cost the same. A cooler the same, and plugs the same.. the only cost difference would be that of the nitrous kit.. and I doubt it'd be very much different, if at all with all the safety options..

A car that gains more horsepower from simple mods, and starts out nearly 100 horsepower ahead.. Gonna be hard to beat.. buying a cam for our car gains more than yours.. buying headers gains more for ours.. all these things do better due to the larger cubes, and headers. Its a loosing battle.. it only really evens out when you go past the 9 second range, due to the fact that in both cases you'd be starting over with complete car.

This argument sucks anyways.. I could buy a pinto or vega for $300 and a large array of motors in it, and whoop ass.. its still fugly. Only mustang I'd own from that era would be a notchback, but even then..

Peace,
Josh

If you took an automagic ls1 and threw bfg or et street drag radials, a nitrous convertor, tranny cooler, colder plugs, and a 150 shot on it.. Remove front sway bar, and a little weight.. I have a feeling you could reach mid 11's for under $1500... Ask unit :)

Do that in a foxbody.. your starting off nearly a second slower, so it'd be a little more difficult.. seeing as how a good convertor costs about the same thing for both cars, and drag radials obviously cost the same. A cooler the same, and plugs the same.. the only cost difference would be that of the nitrous kit.. and I doubt it'd be very much different, if at all with all the safety options..

A car that gains more horsepower from simple mods, and starts out nearly 100 horsepower ahead.. Gonna be hard to beat.. buying a cam for our car gains more than yours.. buying headers gains more for ours.. all these things do better due to the larger cubes, and headers. Its a loosing battle.. it only really evens out when you go past the 9 second range, due to the fact that in both cases you'd be starting over with complete car.

This argument sucks anyways.. I could buy a pinto or vega for $300 and a large array of motors in it, and whoop ass.. its still fugly. Only mustang I'd own from that era would be a notchback, but even then..

Peace,
Josh


:chug: Instead of posting and having the thread sound like a broken record I will just say yup. I agree.

Btw. 93 5.0 Notch is a bad ass car. Used to own one!

You also started with a car that cost AT LEAST 6X what mine did for being in roughly the same condition...

Not all Vega's are ugly! I like the 72's! You ever been in a Vega with a decent 350? It's fun to say the least.lol

That's a big ass block of text. Maybe I'll get around to it another time.

What a post WHORE!!!!!!! :rolleyes:

I don't get it? The minute you buy a SHTITSTANG you lose!!!

I can buy a 200 dollar pinto. Drop in an LS6 in there. Built that engine to be stronger than fort knox. Slap on a huge SC/Tubocharger and add a 200 shot just for fun. Reinforce the car and put some huge slicks in the back. AND it will be cheaper than your 5.0.

This whole my car is cheaper and faster then yours is really dumb. Just bring what you have. Dont bring all this backround shit. No one cares if you lost...BUT only spent 5k and almost won!

The Optispark is a LAME argument for reliability. I replaced 1 in the entire 10 year lifetime of my Camaro at ~100,000 miles

blacksrt is right and he put it in a nicer way then i would! if i said what i felt about this dumb subject some of you guy's will start crying like little bitch's and taking it to hart. ;)

I can buy a 200 dollar pinto. Drop in an LS6 in there. Built that engine to be stronger than fort knox. Slap on a huge SC/Tubocharger and add a 200 shot just for fun. Reinforce the car and put some huge slicks in the back. AND it will be cheaper than your 5.0.

This whole my car is cheaper and faster then yours is really dumb. Just bring what you have. Dont bring all this backround shit. No one cares if you lost...BUT only spent 5k and almost won!
:jest: But, seriously, why put a Chevy motor in a Ford?! :confused: Use a 460 instead of an LS-6! :jest:
BTW Vega's & Pinto's are getting really hard to find nowadays, one in good condition will be more than $300, WAY more :cry: . Couple grand, actually :jest: . Still cheaper than a foxbody. :)

:sucks: :zzz:

Definitely wrong forum... nothing to do with street racing, and its a dumb and enless argument...

I can buy a 200 dollar pinto. Drop in an LS6 in there. Built that engine to be stronger than fort knox. Slap on a huge SC/Tubocharger and add a 200 shot just for fun. Reinforce the car and put some huge slicks in the back. AND it will be cheaper than your 5.0.

This whole my car is cheaper and faster then yours is really dumb. Just bring what you have. Dont bring all this backround shit. No one cares if you lost...BUT only spent 5k and almost won!


:werd:

Lets Not Forget That A F Body Will Always Look A Million Times Better Than Any F Body Even Stripped Hehehehehe

Lets Not Forget That A F Body Will Always Look A Million Times Better Than Any F Body Even Stripped Hehehehehe

turn caps lock off, and learn english so you can make sense in your posts ;)

go build your 8k mustang and come race my 8k z28, then we'll have something worthy of the "kill stories" section


$8k? I wouldnt say that. For $8k including cost of car, I could have a mustang in the 10's without an issue, probably even the 9's. What are you going to to with $8k including cost of vehicle on an LS1? Put a lid on it?

Ok. My perspective as a Mustang Owner (Not that it really matters). I was looking for a good entry level car that I could drive daily, be reliable, and be somewhat powerful. I found a SN95 5.0. The only reason I didn't get the WS6 that I wanted was because of the price at the time. If I could do it again, I would have definitely bought the WS6. That is the reason why alot of the stangs are popular is because they are cheap to purchase and cheap to mod.

soooo, what are yall arguing about?

soooo, what are yall arguing about?

How some dude is so arguing about how getting a Stang and modding it is better than ANY other car because it is cheaper than most of the members cars here. He probably got waxed by some WS6's and is trying to put down the owners and their cars.

I drive a Neon(srt). I have lost a lot. Not once have I said..."Hey nice race...too bad I only paid 20k for it brand new and HUNG with you!"

I don't know.....I always liked the $4performance arguments. Almost as fun as the cubic inch debates.

$8k? I wouldnt say that. For $8k including cost of car, I could have a mustang in the 10's without an issue, probably even the 9's. What are you going to to with $8k including cost of vehicle on an LS1? Put a lid on it?

i would love to see you get an engine that will put anything into the 9's for $8k...let alone the car, suspension, transmission, wheels/tires...that's just :bs: and blacksrt said everything that i was going to say...he is one smart dude...not to mention a normal person instead of being :supergay: like most all of the other srt owners...

i would love to see you get an engine that will put anything into the 9's for $8k...let alone the car, suspension, transmission, wheels/tires...that's just :bs: and blacksrt said everything that i was going to say...he is one smart dude...not to mention a normal person instead of being :supergay: like most all of the other srt owners...


please challenge the fact that I couldnt get a mustang into the 9's with an $8k budget. Here, ill even lay part of it out for you.

Rolling coupe chasis: $1000
Stock 351W motor: $500
Sell the intake and FI stuff to the Bronco guys (they love it): +$250
Buy a carb and intake: $200
Bigger fuel pump: $75
Drag launch kit: $140
torque arm, control arms: $400
2 stock 15'' wheels: $40
ET Streets: $200
Nitrous plate kit (custom): $450
Built C4: $1200
Lightweight mods: Free
Manual rack: Free (cap off stock rack)
Heads: $1200
Custom Cam: $250
33 spline axles: $120
Differential: $300
Gears: $120


Thats mid/low 10's and im still right around $6000. Still wanna argue that it cant be done?

please challenge the fact that I couldnt get a mustang into the 9's with an $8k budget. Here, ill even lay part of it out for you.

Rolling coupe chasis: $1000
Stock 351W motor: $500
Sell the intake and FI stuff to the Bronco guys (they love it): +$250
Buy a carb and intake: $200
Bigger fuel pump: $75
Drag launch kit: $140
torque arm, control arms: $400
2 stock 15'' wheels: $40
ET Streets: $200
Nitrous plate kit (custom): $450
Built C4: $1200
Lightweight mods: Free
Manual rack: Free (cap off stock rack)
Heads: $1200
Custom Cam: $250
33 spline axles: $120
Differential: $300
Gears: $120


Thats mid/low 10's and im still right around $6000. Still wanna argue that it cant be done?
Carb and intake for $200? How bad a shape? You will have to add jet extensions and a rebuild, and still have a used up carb.
33 spline axles $120? They are more than that each.
Differential 33 spline is more than $300
ET streets $200 If they are used.
Plus, your stock low compression 351 without a rebuild?

Anybody can run a time on a budget, but your stock bottom end isnt going to get you there reliably. Stock rods and crank with added power plus spray! No SFC's? That is just the begining. How are you going to find out it runs 9's without the safety equipment?

Im not saying it cant be done, but it wouldnt be much of a street car or very reliable. No power steering, no upgraded brakes(stock rear drums, small disc's), no safety equipment. I could buy an older 350 Gen2 Camaro and throw a 2 stage 500 shot on it, but it wouldnt last. Not trying to start a fight here, but this is just a lame, go nowhere argument.

Some people run fast cheap, some do it right for more money. In the end the fastest car wins no matter how much it cost. I raced a C5 in my small block S10 over the summer, and I didnt ask for 4 or more cars on the start to make up for the price difference. I still won, but in the end he still had a nicer car.

please challenge the fact that I couldnt get a mustang into the 9's with an $8k budget. Here, ill even lay part of it out for you.

Rolling coupe chasis: $1000
Stock 351W motor: $500
Sell the intake and FI stuff to the Bronco guys (they love it): +$250
Buy a carb and intake: $200
Bigger fuel pump: $75
Drag launch kit: $140
torque arm, control arms: $400
2 stock 15'' wheels: $40
ET Streets: $200
Nitrous plate kit (custom): $450
Built C4: $1200
Lightweight mods: Free
Manual rack: Free (cap off stock rack)
Heads: $1200
Custom Cam: $250
33 spline axles: $120
Differential: $300
Gears: $120


Thats mid/low 10's and im still right around $6000. Still wanna argue that it cant be done?


If its that easy, then why haven't you done it? lol.

Peace,
Josh

I have never been beat by a WS6, nor have i raced one. I DID race a lightly modded LS1 TA in my 95TA and was unimpressed with it, it was an A4, so i cant blame the driver. He beat me by 1.5 cars 0-60 and i had him till 2nd gear and he started walking...keep in mind, i has 2.73 gears and stock LT1 (save for a morose CAI). Granded, the LS1 TA's and Z28's look good and i would have bought one rather than my Fox, BUT, it would have cost me too much to make it as fast as I wanted it to be to notice an improvement on my LT1 that was worth the trouble.

I also wanted a car that would last through 4 years of college and most LS1's that are in the 8K price range are 100K plus on mileage. My Fox has a brand new drivetrain. I used to work for a dealership, we took in a LS1 z28 on trade. It has 113K on it and is being sold WHOLESALE for no less than 9K. So yeah, it looks good, but it would cost me 15K to get it where my fox is for marginally better looks (personal taste). For that matter, lets make a case for the Vette owners why do some buy F-bodies when there are Vettes out there? Because the performance is the same...

Like i said when i began this post, im not hating on LS1's, but i see a lot of hating on the mustang crowd. All the mustang clubs i have ever been associated with in the past respected my TA. The F-body crowd seems a tad closed minded IN SOME CASES (not everyone).

If its that easy, then why haven't you done it? lol.

Peace,
Josh


because i enjoy having a nice daily drivable car that has decent hp, double OD, full interior, A/C, etc.

its called priorities

A stock Ls1 6M will run 13.2-13.6[/QUOTE]
I have a stock 2000 ss put $90 total on exhaust and ran a 12.32 everyone that knows anything about ls1 knows that the factory specs is pretty well a average if you will. The factory does not dyno everyone. We have a dyno in our shop and i have seen them from 285 to 351 thats stock there was only one so far that has had higher horsepower than mine and that was a 02 with the slp performance on it so it just depends some are weeklings and some are strong ones But as far as that statement goes it is false as with any car you cant put them in a range cause theres always the stronger and weeker ones out there

That's a big ass block of text. Maybe I'll get around to it another time.
Maybe not.

I have a stock 2000 ss put $90 total on exhaust and ran a 12.32 everyone that knows anything about ls1 knows that the factory specs is pretty well a average if you will. The factory does not dyno everyone. We have a dyno in our shop and i have seen them from 285 to 351 thats stock there was only one so far that has had higher horsepower than mine and that was a 02 with the slp performance on it so it just depends some are weeklings and some are strong ones But as far as that statement goes it is false as with any car you cant put them in a range cause theres always the stronger and weeker ones out there
This whole post is crazy. :eek2: I'm just going to call :bs: on the whole thing and be done with it instead of addressing each individual "fact".

Maybe not.

:rotflmao:

:lol: :lol: :lol:

I DID race a lightly modded LS1 TA in my 95TA and was unimpressed with it, it was an A4, so i cant blame the driver. He beat me by 1.5 cars 0-60 and i had him till 2nd gear and he started walking...keep in mind, i has 2.73 gears and stock LT1 (save for a morose CAI).

If you actually had A RACE, I think you would have been a little impressed. 60-100ish and maybe, just maybe he would of kept walking... :nod:

:cheers:

"because i enjoy having a nice daily drivable car that has decent hp, double OD, full interior, A/C, etc.

its called priorities"


I see.. I don't see it happening.. you act like $200 intake/carb setups that are capable of 10 second passes are sold on a street corner. You could very well spend $500-$1000 on a decent carb capable of a 9 second pass.. depending upon features Not only that, how many 351's do you find for $500 that can handle much spray at all, much less last very long in a 9 or 10 second drag car.. If you wanted to be technical.. you also need to add in head gaskets, head bolts, intake manifold gasket, torque convertor (which could cost anywhere from $500-$1000 if you get one thats a good one), trans cooler, any associated bearings/seals for rearend, shit to rebuild the carb that is probably trashed for $100-$150 (assuming you can find a decent intake for $50-$100).. even used. There is so much more to this than I can even think of..

Speaking of which.. do mustangs even have torque arms? I was under the impression they had upper and lower control arms.. which still costs $400 for a decent street set..

My guess is.. to run 10's, you'd need every bit of that 8k budget.. 9's would be several g's more away.. you might run 9's for one pass on that $500 longblock.. lol.

Lets get realistic here. We both know you probably aren't going to have a car that is capable of running more than 1 or 2 passes at 9 seconds for 8k total. With as many hidden costs that are incurred.. I wouldn't even be surprised if you couldn't do 10's. There are ALWAYS hidden costs. Anybody who had built a car would know this.

Peace,
Josh

go build your 8k mustang and come race my 8k z28, then we'll have something worthy of the "kill stories" section

I would drag your $8000 Z28 down the street with my 3600+lbs foxbody vert that i built for $3500 all day long. 12.50's for $8000...... :jest:

Come to GA and find out if you doubt me ;)