DVST8OR

iTrader: (7)

before the cam I was making 341 rwhp and 353 ft tq.

Only thing different is the g5x3 cam and 4.10 gears, new numbers are 398 rwhp and 362 ft tq :

baloga41

i'm installing g5x3 this weekend..... how is the cam operating?? how did u tune the cam?? what is your first impresion....?....

big dave

those are nice numbers. what are the specs on that cam?

BADSZ28

iTrader: (39)

Those #s seem low. Especially torque. I would expect that without headers maybe. Hell my minor bolt-on 02Z put down 361rwtq with 300@2500rpm. The HP increase is great though. 57hp is a nice jump for just a cam swap.

DVST8OR

iTrader: (7)

baloga41 - cam is operating great. It was tuned via ls1edit at the shop. First impression was wow this isn't that bad (as in driveability of a big cam). Then I stomped on it and my next impression was my head in my head rest

big dave - the cam specs have not been released. But I trust lou at LGMotorsports, I think he knows what he is doing

Ryan02SS

iTrader: (3)

Your 4.10s really help with driveability on that size cam no doubt. I bet you can tell a big difference in mid and uptop power over the stock cam which is all that matters, not dyno numbers. That power and traction is high 11's so your looking good. I would think the torque would be higher and look a little better but every setup and car is different. It's all about being happy with your setup! Congrats.

DVST8OR

iTrader: (7)

Thanks Ryan02SS, yea am pretty happy.

freakynipples69

iTrader: (3)

Are you using 4.10's on the stock 10bolt? How is that holding up? notice any problems?

DVST8OR

iTrader: (7)

Yes I am still running on the 10-bolt. I just got the gears installed the same time as the cam so I haven't even finished breaking them in. So we will see how they hold up. I am never getting slicks, see very little track time, and when I do go to the track I feather the clutch (still have the stock Z06 clutch) out of the hole so I am not too worried about the gears.

tuff

iTrader: (15)

Just dont wheel hop and you wil be fine

obrien24

iTrader: (2)

I bought my car in june, and had to rebuild the trans in less than a month with only 18k. Then as soon as the trans had enough miles on it to start playing again, my rearend went. That is with 4.10 and sumitomo street tires. So be carefull, I was only making 331rwhp at the time. If nothing else have a girdle put on it.

chevysrule94

iTrader: (2)

WOW!!!...What were you doin?? Drifting or somethin?? Thats unbelieveable to destroy both with next to stock HP and only 18K miles??

DVST8OR

iTrader: (7)

Actually I already have the TA differential cover, so I am good there.

lilbuddy1587

iTrader: (1)

Something else for everyone to understand.....WE LIVE IN AZ, THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS 93 OCTANE GAS(91 only) So we can't raise our timing to 28-9 or 30 degrees like in other states(max i've seen here is 27 and thats pushing it). So that would be why the numbers seem a little low. Also look at the temp and humidity, not exactly dyno friendly

Edit- Nice numbers as well man

00Formula

Higher elevations dont need as much octane because of the shitty density altitude.........the lower the altitude the more octane you need because the quality of the air is much better. Oh and nice hp numbers Dvst8r.

DVST8OR

iTrader: (7)

Thanks guys. Yea that is something that I forgot to mention, also take into account that this is a conservative tune. It is more for reliability and drivability than hp numbers (which I will gladly sacrifice).

wait4me

iTrader: (10)

the reason why his torque is so low is, look at the air fuel, its almost 14:1 when it gets richer, the torque starts to go up more, that thing is starving for fuel..

SStolen

iTrader: (22)

It looks like on your last dyno pull, the highest hp pull, that you were only putting down 552 rwtq.

Zombie

iTrader: (2)

I live in vegas and have tuned several cam only and h/c cars. The octane comment is ture, but I've never tuned less than 28 degrees on a cam/header setup. Most heads cam cars I do i'm able to get to 29-31 in summer (110+ temps) with ZERO knock. I do remap the IAT spark table so timing is automatically pulled during high temps to prevent knock.

I've gotten a few cam/longtube cars in the 370-380 range on 91 octane. All have cams under 232 i believe.

One of my friends has a 6.0 iron block setup with 11.0:1 comp and a 237/245/112 .590 cam. I've been able to get him to 30 degrees as well with zero knock (getting the daily driving good with a/c and all took some time though). Getting the timing up there is all about knowing what the motor wants and preventing ANY knock from occuring... well 1 degree once and a while is ok.

Cam selection plays a big role in the amount of timing. A vette I tuned had a 228/228/114 i believe. His comp was 11.2:1... with that cam and that compression it was too much for 91 octane. I tuned him and got the car running well, but I had to run the tune fat (like 12.0 a/f) during the tq peak and 12.4 everywhere else (I normally tune 12.7) just to keep the timing at a point where the car would run well. If he swapped to a larger cam with more overlap his setup would run much better. I was only able to get a MAX of 24 degrees on his setup and was down to 21 or so during the tq peak.

NicD

iTrader: (7)

Not really. Look at the A/F on the last run, mid 12s.