My Draglites are giving me problems I've never heard of from others!!
01-03-2005, 03:28 PM
#1
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My Draglites are giving me problems I've never heard of from others!! I got 15x3.5" Weld Draglites up front and 15x10" 7.5"bs in the back. I got the 5/16" spacers for all four like people said also. This is my problem though. I put the wheels on and the studs didn't even come close to sticking out past the wheels so I just got done putting on the longer ARP studs on every corner and I went and put on one of my fronts wheels and with the lugs on, the studs still don't stick out through the lugs, they just barely reach the head on them. I've never heard of anyone having this problem before. What does everyone do about this??? I've never seen f-body studs longer than 2.5" and looks like I need 3". I still need to be able to run with my stock wheels when I'm not using these. What can I do? thanks
-Chris
-Chris
01-03-2005, 06:50 PM
#2
You must have not searched before your purchase as this is a common problem due to the weld rim centers are very thick prostar or draglite btw.
Add a spacer and it is even worse. You absolutly need at least 2.5 inch studs which really don't pass tech as the thread portion doesn't enter the lugs. You need three inch studs which you can purchase just about anywhere...just not in metric. They will look goofy through your stock rims though...not much you can do if you unless you want to sacrifice your safety.
Steve
Add a spacer and it is even worse. You absolutly need at least 2.5 inch studs which really don't pass tech as the thread portion doesn't enter the lugs. You need three inch studs which you can purchase just about anywhere...just not in metric. They will look goofy through your stock rims though...not much you can do if you unless you want to sacrifice your safety.
Steve
01-03-2005, 06:59 PM
#3
You also have to use Long Shank Lugnuts. Call Weld Racing and tell them your situation and that you need to get the Long Shank Lug nuts for draglite rims! You will need 3 packages of them because they come in packs of 4! Those shank lugs nuts reach in through the rims to grab the wheel studs.
01-03-2005, 09:50 PM
#5
Its not a weird thing. ALL of us that run Pro-Stars or Draglites have the same setup. While not technically "NHRA legal", most tracks rarely check for stud length, especially if you use a closed end lug.
You need 12mm x 1.5 long-shank lug nuts. Pep Boys or Jegs sells them, and sometimes call them "Cragar style".
You need 12mm x 1.5 long-shank lug nuts. Pep Boys or Jegs sells them, and sometimes call them "Cragar style".
01-03-2005, 10:00 PM
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You definitely need the long shank lugs as mentioned. I wouldn't run those rims without them.
Also, Weld rims will "close up" when you tighten down the studs and give a little more stud protruding into the lug. To be legal/safe, you need the minimum of the stud size (12mm) protruding past the rim, not past the end of lug.
Also, Weld rims will "close up" when you tighten down the studs and give a little more stud protruding into the lug. To be legal/safe, you need the minimum of the stud size (12mm) protruding past the rim, not past the end of lug.
01-04-2005, 12:15 PM
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sorry guys, I do have the Weld long shank lug nuts with weld washers. It's just the threads don't make it into the nut portion so I wasn't sure if that was okay or not. I'm guessing the washers are a must right?
My stock wheels let the lug nuts go in real deep so even with 3" studs, I don't think it would look too bad. What would be the best size to get 3" studs in, I guess I'd have to get all new lug nuts for my stock wheels and the weld wheels right?
-Chris
My stock wheels let the lug nuts go in real deep so even with 3" studs, I don't think it would look too bad. What would be the best size to get 3" studs in, I guess I'd have to get all new lug nuts for my stock wheels and the weld wheels right?
-Chris
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01-04-2005, 04:19 PM
#8
washers are a must, you need 3 inch long studs and you'll have to use standard lugs.
You'll have to repurchase lugs for both sets of wheels acorn 60 deg lugs and shank lugs. You'll also have to tap your front rotors with a 1/2x20 tap. The rears, if you have an aftermarket rear, should have these already so you'll just use the 1/2x20 tapped holes instead.
Good luck,
Steve
You'll have to repurchase lugs for both sets of wheels acorn 60 deg lugs and shank lugs. You'll also have to tap your front rotors with a 1/2x20 tap. The rears, if you have an aftermarket rear, should have these already so you'll just use the 1/2x20 tapped holes instead.
Good luck,
Steve
01-04-2005, 05:22 PM
#10
Originally Posted by LowETz
Tech wants to see "at least", stud diameter past the end of the lug nut.
"Wheel studs must be threaded into hex portion of lugnut a distance at least equal to the diameter of the stud."
Says nothing about being longer than the lugnut.
01-04-2005, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by WILWAXU
You need to show your Tech guy a NHRA rule book.
"Wheel studs must be threaded into hex portion of lugnut a distance at least equal to the diameter of the stud."
Says nothing about being longer than the lugnut.
"Wheel studs must be threaded into hex portion of lugnut a distance at least equal to the diameter of the stud."
Says nothing about being longer than the lugnut.
01-04-2005, 05:46 PM
#12
John Wilwaxu's correct, they don't need to protrude past the hex portion of the lugnut, only the threaded portion needs to be into the hex portion of the lug by the diameter of the stud.
To clarify regarding tapping the rotors, it is the spindle your tapping for 1/2x20 hole, you don't want to drill out the hole to 1/2x20 unless your using press in style studs. If you are using press in style and the hole is not knurled, the stud CAN spin if your lug is frozen.
Most aftermarket F-body rear assemblies will have 12mm,1.5 AND 1/2x20 holes tapped already. Many folks use the 2.5 studs though they don't pass tech as the threaded portion of them is actually only 2.03 inches long (2.68 inch overall length ARP stud).
To clarify regarding tapping the rotors, it is the spindle your tapping for 1/2x20 hole, you don't want to drill out the hole to 1/2x20 unless your using press in style studs. If you are using press in style and the hole is not knurled, the stud CAN spin if your lug is frozen.
Most aftermarket F-body rear assemblies will have 12mm,1.5 AND 1/2x20 holes tapped already. Many folks use the 2.5 studs though they don't pass tech as the threaded portion of them is actually only 2.03 inches long (2.68 inch overall length ARP stud).
01-04-2005, 06:04 PM
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To clarify regarding tapping the rotors, it is the spindle your tapping for 1/2x20 hole, you don't want to drill out the hole to 1/2x20 unless your using press in style studs. If you are using press in style and the hole is not knurled, the stud CAN spin if your lug is frozen.
i'm confused, press in style studs would be just like the stock or ARP studs I have now, right? You said I'm not supposed to drill the hole to 1/2x20, so what would I drill it to? Also, what does it mean by having the hole knurled? thanks
-Chris
i'm confused, press in style studs would be just like the stock or ARP studs I have now, right? You said I'm not supposed to drill the hole to 1/2x20, so what would I drill it to? Also, what does it mean by having the hole knurled? thanks
-Chris
01-04-2005, 06:32 PM
#14
If your using larger 1/2 x20 screw in studs, you need to tap the hole for the stud to the same size. The correct DRILLED hole size would be 29/64th if i'm not mistaken, then use a tap.
A knurled hole is what you have now, that takes a knurled style stud, like your using now, they are perpindicular flutes or groves to the face of the bolt. Some folks use press in knurled studs in regular drilled holes, this can be a problem down the road. This makes taking a wheel off your car difficult if you cant take the lug off (if the stud is slipping in the hole you drilled).
Your much better off tapping your hole and using screw in style studs if you can, they cost about the same. If you insist on using a knurled bolt in a standard hole, then you need to drill it out smaller then the knurling and press it in..the hole size depends on the knurled bolts that you have. Of course, your sheering part of the knurling from the bolt....there is not much you can do about it.
Get the screw in style and just tap the hole correctly. You can just do it the cheap way and leave the arp bolts on...It could be worse, I see guys using their stock studs with their prostar/draglites. It's all about your own comfort zone I suppose.
You may be rethinking your wheel decision in hindsight at this point...just some of the obsticles and work-arounds you need with the rims you picked.
Steve
A knurled hole is what you have now, that takes a knurled style stud, like your using now, they are perpindicular flutes or groves to the face of the bolt. Some folks use press in knurled studs in regular drilled holes, this can be a problem down the road. This makes taking a wheel off your car difficult if you cant take the lug off (if the stud is slipping in the hole you drilled).
Your much better off tapping your hole and using screw in style studs if you can, they cost about the same. If you insist on using a knurled bolt in a standard hole, then you need to drill it out smaller then the knurling and press it in..the hole size depends on the knurled bolts that you have. Of course, your sheering part of the knurling from the bolt....there is not much you can do about it.
Get the screw in style and just tap the hole correctly. You can just do it the cheap way and leave the arp bolts on...It could be worse, I see guys using their stock studs with their prostar/draglites. It's all about your own comfort zone I suppose.
You may be rethinking your wheel decision in hindsight at this point...just some of the obsticles and work-arounds you need with the rims you picked.
Steve
01-04-2005, 06:48 PM
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You could ditch the spacers and grind the calipers. I used 12mm x 2.5 ARP studs on for my fronts and with my calipers ground there's just over 12mm protruding after the lugs are tightened (measured through open lugs). Don't question your wheel choice... I love the old school look of Draglights 
01-06-2005, 09:17 PM
#16
Originally Posted by WILWAXU
You need to show your Tech guy a NHRA rule book.
"Wheel studs must be threaded into hex portion of lugnut a distance at least equal to the diameter of the stud."
Says nothing about being longer than the lugnut.
"Wheel studs must be threaded into hex portion of lugnut a distance at least equal to the diameter of the stud."
Says nothing about being longer than the lugnut.
01-11-2005, 01:47 PM
#18
You only need to tap new holes if your going with larger diameter studs. If you have an aftermarket rear. THere should be holes already set for 1/2x20, your just not using that set of holes with the smaller diameter studs. The ARP studs are better then nothing I suppose, I would never consider using stock studs with a prostar setup.
I don't believe the ARP studs are legal either as they are not threaded all the way. Only ~ 2" of it is actually threaded....it's a technical point, though I suppose you could be called on it.
Steve
Pres.
SJM Mfg Inc/ Bogart wholesale/distributor
I don't believe the ARP studs are legal either as they are not threaded all the way. Only ~ 2" of it is actually threaded....it's a technical point, though I suppose you could be called on it.
Steve
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SJM Mfg Inc/ Bogart wholesale/distributor
